Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC

   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC #1  

Fireman550

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I have a Miller 210 mig welder to repair things around the farm. I have always wanted to learn how to stick weld. I purchased a Thunderbolt and have 7013, 6011, and 6013 rods to pratice. Where do IU start from here? Do I weld on ac or dc and what amp with which rod on 1/4 inch mild steel? Thanks for your help!
 
   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC #2  
Welcome aboard. You've go a good start. Those rods generally will be used on DC. Depending on the size of rods will determine the amperage you'll use. You can find the basic amp range on the package of rods or by doing a search on the net. Keep in mind this is a ball park and it also depends on what you're welding and the position of the weld. Get yourself some scape steel plate and start by doing some stringers which is simply making a straight line weld to practice your posistion and speed. This is just a starter and have fun.
 
   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC #3  
Those rod (7014, 6011, & 6013), also run well on AC.
You can also run some brands of 7018 on AC, but they generally run better on DC.

Since you have both, you will probably end up leaving it on DC most of the time since there is less spatter and maybe a little smoother.
And DC will handle just about every rod there is.
 
   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC #4  
I have an AC/DC thunderbolt and have not used ac yet in 2 years since switching from ac only thunderbolt.

It's gonna be a little bit of a shock to you even on DC, as there is alot more going on than with a MIG. AC would be a real shock with all the noise and sparks :eek:

7014 rod at around 130 amps, start melting some rod, get a feel for it and see how the weld looks.

You said starting point, there are so many variables in welding, I still don't even know what I don't know after 30 years of amateur welding.

I love my new to me stick machine.

JB
 

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   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC #5  
DC is easiest and smoothest and you (expecially as a new welder) will have the best results on DC. 6013 is about the easiest to start, maintain and restrike an arc. 7014 is good also, 6011 is a little harder to run. However different brands of rods run differently. You did not say what sizes of rods you have, so we cannot recommend any amperage settings. The best way is to go to the miller welding calculator and take their advice anyway. Its on the WEB here:

Miller - Stick Welding Calculator

Select you material and select your rod, and it gives a range of amp setting you can play up or down from there to get good penetration, run smoothly, and have mininum spatter. By the way good fresh rod runs better generally than old damp rusty rod. Although I have some old 6013 and 6011 that still runs well, but it has been stored in an airtight container. So to sum up. forget about AC except for running a carbon torch or heating up plumbing or if that is all you got. Enjoy DC, probably start with the 6013, set it like Miller says, and burn it all up. Then buy some more. I am a new welder too, been welding for about 15 years, but just dont do enough of it to get good. on my last welding project, I was getting better!:laughing:

James K0UA
 
   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for the useful information. I got a little pratice in this morning and realized quickly that a mig welder is much more forgiving than a stick welder. I have plenty of summer projects to pratice on and will hopefully get better. Thanks for your help.
 
   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC #7  
One other thing, if you dont already have it is invest in a good auto darkening helmet. It will make you a better welder. Yes I know the pro's may not use them, but you aint no pro, neither am I. And scratching around in the dark trying to get an arc started with some 7018 will make a preacher cuss. Pro's can weld and make a good bead looking and talking to you. I have to concentrate every second on holding the arc length, while moving at the right speed, while trying to go in a straight line etc. A good helmet with adjustable shade, so you can always see about 1 to 2 inches ahead of the arc while moving is important. You may need to adjust your shade a little when changing amp settings. obviously running some 1/16 6013 at 28 amps is going to be different than some 5/32 at 135 amps. The arc is going to be a lot brighter on the higher setting. Some people use "cheaters" or magnifying lenses inside their helmet made for this purpose. I dont have any but would like to try some, as I am getting older, and dont see as well as I used to. I would suggest you get some 3/32 6013 and practice running good beads over and over before you ever really try to weld anything. Again I am a lousy welder, but I have learned some things. Practice is very important. There is no substitute for running beads, and melting rod. Stay with it, I think it comes easier for some than others. It has never came really easy for me. Good Luck

James K0UA
 
   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC #8  
One other thing, if you dont already have it is invest in a good auto darkening helmet. It will make you a better welder. scratching around in the dark trying to get an arc started with some 7018 will make a preacher cuss. James K0UA

Or temporarily blinding yourself cause you didn't close your shield in time, That slows you down :mad:.

So I second the auto darkening helmet, I resisted for so long, finally I splurged and got a decent one from the weld supply house. and it definitely makes welding much easier. and enjoyable.

JB.
 
   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC #9  
look at your manual , miller usually has a rod amp chart.copy it and tape it to your welder.
 
   / Miller XL Thunderbolt 300/200 Ac/DC #10  
look at your manual , miller usually has a rod amp chart.copy it and tape it to your welder.

Mine has it on the front of the machine, look closely at my picture in post 4.

I rarely use it but I probably should :eek:

JB
 

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