Mighty Mule battery charger replacement
I have a Mighty Mule FM500 single gate opener. It has worked fine since 2006, but recently quit at the half-way point on an open cycle. After doing all the tests on the Mighty Mule troubleshooting site, I determined that the battery charger (built into the control board) was dead. A replacement board is $240 to $250. I found this website, of a guy that repairs circuit boards, but an e-mail from him predicted that his repair charge could be as much as a new board.
Since all functions of the opener, except battery charging, still worked, I decided to try and by-pass the built in charger. I unpluged the MM transformer, disconnected the MM transformer wires from the circuit board and temporarily connected a Harbor Freight trickle charger (there are three HF #s, 42292, 69594, and 69955). I walked away, and when I went back a few hours later, the battery had went from about 11V to 12.9V. The opener then worked normally. I cycled it a few times to be sure all was OK. After each cycle the battery would drop to close to 12V, then quickly charge back up to close to 13V.
I then took the wires that previously came from the transformer to the circuit board (18V AC terminals) and connected them directly to the battery. I cut the battery clips off the HF charger and butt connected them to the other end of those wires (inside the garage) and plugged in the HF charger where the MM transformer had been. This eliminated the MM transformer and bypassed the built-in battery charger. It has been a few days and it is still working fine and the battery is staying charged. If you are skeptical of HF quality, you could use a Battery Tender charger. I got the HF charger on sale with a 25% coupon for about 6-7 dollars. Sure beats $250 for a new board!
jps
I have a Mighty Mule FM500 single gate opener. It has worked fine since 2006, but recently quit at the half-way point on an open cycle. After doing all the tests on the Mighty Mule troubleshooting site, I determined that the battery charger (built into the control board) was dead. A replacement board is $240 to $250. I found this website, of a guy that repairs circuit boards, but an e-mail from him predicted that his repair charge could be as much as a new board.
Since all functions of the opener, except battery charging, still worked, I decided to try and by-pass the built in charger. I unpluged the MM transformer, disconnected the MM transformer wires from the circuit board and temporarily connected a Harbor Freight trickle charger (there are three HF #s, 42292, 69594, and 69955). I walked away, and when I went back a few hours later, the battery had went from about 11V to 12.9V. The opener then worked normally. I cycled it a few times to be sure all was OK. After each cycle the battery would drop to close to 12V, then quickly charge back up to close to 13V.
I then took the wires that previously came from the transformer to the circuit board (18V AC terminals) and connected them directly to the battery. I cut the battery clips off the HF charger and butt connected them to the other end of those wires (inside the garage) and plugged in the HF charger where the MM transformer had been. This eliminated the MM transformer and bypassed the built-in battery charger. It has been a few days and it is still working fine and the battery is staying charged. If you are skeptical of HF quality, you could use a Battery Tender charger. I got the HF charger on sale with a 25% coupon for about 6-7 dollars. Sure beats $250 for a new board!
jps
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