MF65 FEL Pump Drive Rod Machined...

bsbrum · May 13, 2012

Luckily I live a couple miles away from a great machinist and nice guy, Scott Beckett of Beckett Machines (build tractor pulling tractors), who worked me up a new hydraulic pump drive rod out of chrome moly ... it's just a teensy bit stronger than the old one ;-)

I still don't know how I am going to mount the drive adapter plate without removing the radiator. I also looks like there is a hand-crank receiver on the pulley now ... I am guessing that's also left-handed thread?

Dieseltech · May 13, 2012

Front mount loader pumps usually have either straight splines or left hand threads for drive shaft as crank runs clockwise. Are threads in drive plate OK, or does plate need replaced on crank pulley?

bsbrum · May 13, 2012

Dieseltech said:
Front mount loader pumps usually have either straight splines or left hand threads for drive shaft as crank runs clockwise. Are threads in drive plate OK, or does plate need replaced on crank pulley?

Dieseltech-

The drive plate is okay, but the issue is that I haven't mounted it yet. As I peer into the impossible space where it is supposed to go, I can see a big nut with an internal socket for a hand crank. I figure that I have to remove that nut first - and I am assuming that it's also left-handed threads?

Once I get that off, the pump drive plate has three bolts, for which I replaced the bushings.

I just can't see how I can possibly get my big ham sized hands into the crevices to work in that space. I figure I'll have to pull the radiator.

Dieseltech · May 13, 2012

Both gas and diesel engines have right hand threads on pulley retaining nut or bolt if used. It may be possible that a front casting split is needed if radiator removal does not give enough room. Are there any tractors around like yours with front pump to look at, maybe will show what you are up against.

bsbrum · May 19, 2012

@dieseltech ... Okay, I took the front end off, and it looks like I need a different pulley? Ugh!!

I am going to have a dickens of a time mating the front end back up. Time to borrow an engine hoist, me thinks. ;-)

bsbrum · May 20, 2012

The good news is that it is possible to drill and tap the holes for the pump drive plate.

The bad news is that it is off center just enough that I don't like it. I figure that I have at least two more tries worth of room for re-drilling. I'll jb weld the bad holes closed to avoid future confusion.

I had better pull the pulley off and take this to my drill press though, this was quite a job with it on the tractor. :-/

bsbrum · May 28, 2012

Well, third time's a charm. I got the drive plate mounted.

Problem is that as I was mating the front end back to the engine, I noticed that the front end pivot is totally obstructing the bolts for the drive plate.

This picture is with the front end pulled about 4 inches away from the engine.

What is the prescribed remedy, spacers?

Dieseltech · May 28, 2012

Drive plate looks thicker than it needs to be, may try to countersink drive bolt holes in plate to get bolt heads below plate surface. Allen head bolts may be used too if needed to keep countersink holes smaller. If spacers are used at front casting support hood and grillwork will no longer fit as they should. Best to rework plate as needed for clearance.

bsbrum · May 28, 2012

Dieseltech, you are a gem, I owe you some adult beverages.

Hmmm. I do have a metal lathe, I could turn it down ... Maybe so it sets back into the pulley?

Dieseltech · May 28, 2012

Lathes are fun to play with, have a South bend 9 inch and an antique flat belt LeBlond 20 inch for flywheels, don't use either one enough to be good at it, but just enough to want to keep around. Just bought a used Enco mill at Portland swap meet last week, have a lot to learn what it will or won't do. Have been looking at tooling catalog, looks like tooling can get expensive depending on what you want it to do. Still enjoy repairing injection pumps though, would rather be around diesel engines than gas.