MF30 Instant reverse tractor Sudden failed to move

[jkk04]

A couple weeks ago, my beloved 1970 MF30 industrial tractor suddenly failed to move forward or backward while scraping on the ground.
The tractor has Perkin AD204 4 cylinders diesel engine.

The tractor has no indication of any noises nor wrong movement before it happens.

Only I suspect there was no fluid circulation in the transmission internally causing no pump and no supply of the fluid to the torque converter.

I replaced the transmission oil pump because of the seal failure and fluid and sump filter 7 years ago.

Ever since the tractor works without any problem.

Again, I removed the sump pan and cleaned some sludge and filter then added new fluid.

I thought the sludge was to block the fluid circulation through the sucking pipe to the oil pump.

But it did not help.

So, I removed the 1/8" pipe plug at the top of the transmission then connected a PSI gauge for PSI testing according to the service manual.

The pressure gauge shows only 40 PSI.

It should be between 150 to 160 PSI.

Is the pump failing?

I replaced the OEM oil pump about 7 years ago and it has served me for the last 35 years that I couldn't give up this lovely tractor.

Any suggestion from savvy members in here will be much appreciated

Jkk

 

[Dman1981]

Quick question does scraper
Still
Go up and down
If it
Does. you could have broke coupler from trans to pinion which can be replaced they left hand side cover

 

[jkk04]

No, it does not go up or down that means the 3-point hitch is not working neither.
Thanks

 

[Dman1981]

Three point works off trans
So are there any little pieces in the screen

 

[jkk04]

Three point works off trans
So are there any little pieces in the screen

No. It was only sludge in the screen and pan.
Thanks.

 

[Dman1981]

iOS screen still intack
So the two bolt heads on side of trans regulate fwd and rev pressure are
Spring
Loaded with a spool valve a pin inside shims under springs for pressure top bt
Is to cooler and filter screen in filter also

 

[Dman1981]

My typing sucks fat fingers

 

[jkk04]

iOS screen still intack
So the two bolt heads on side of trans regulate fwd and rev pressure are
Spring
Loaded with a spool valve a pin inside shims under springs for pressure top bt
Is to cooler and filter screen in filter also

The procedure you meant to above is for transmission pressure test when the pressures are normal range 150-160PSI.

But the current pressure on the transmission is only 40PSI.

Does it indicate the oil pump failure?

Thanks again

 

[Dman1981]

More than likely but the crud is everywhere could have broken sealing rings also I would pull them make sure they are not stuck pins will stick in plunger

 

[jkk04]

Updating...
Split the tractor then discovered the torque converter main back plate for engine flywheel attached.
It is complete broken middle of section.
Unbelievable
Finding and waiting the answer for the plate through the local MF dealer.

 

[Dman1981]

Thing should have been Leaking some oil and making a little noise nice

 

[jkk04]

Yesterday was the day that I had the backplate from a local master mechanic at a tractor repair shop for free and installed immediately.

I contacted him for the problems then responded immediately that he has an extra set of plates and is ready to pick up.

I am waiting for a pump rubber gasket to be repaired completely.

 

[Dman1981]

Do you know how to dial torque converter in?
They also make pump kit comes with rubber seal torque converter seal and bushings for pump

 

[jkk04]

Do you know how to dial torque converter in?
They also make pump kit comes with rubber seal torque converter seal and bushings for pump

I have replaced the pump that failed the front seal 7 years ago.

According to the service manual, the most important thing is position impeller hub driver lugs on torque converter in a horizontal position and drive lugs on transmission pump in a vertical position.

then use about 6" guide studs to make certain that transmission is in perfect alignment with the engine.

The guide studs are not used, it is almost certain that the lugs on the converter hub will pee, or gouge, a groove on the pump.

I followed it exactly without problem when I replaced the pump 7 years ago and will do again.

If you have any better suggestions, please share with me.

Thanks.

 

[Dman1981]

That's all good Just don't force it together if it has 1/4 inch to go and won't slide in torque converter ears are on top of pump it must slide all the way In Before bolting it up

I would always use a dial indicator to true converter, made pump bushings last longer is all
Reason we used kit
You can also pull pump apart and look at it just make sure gears go back in same way. It's just what I did. Don't like doing things twice

 

[jkk04]

That's all good Just don't force it together if it has 1/4 inch to go and won't slide in torque converter ears are on top of pump it must slide all the way In Before bolting it up

I would always use a dial indicator to true converter, made pump bushings last longer is all
Reason we used kit
You can also pull pump apart and look at it just make sure gears go back in same way. It's just what I did. Don't like doing things twice

Yes, That is the reason, I ordered a new OEM pump for $300 from British England.

It's worth it instead of doing things twice.

The pumps from China, India are good but not as good as OEMs.

Thank you for your suggestion.

Appreciate it

 

[jkk04]

That's all good Just don't force it together if it has 1/4 inch to go and won't slide in torque converter ears are on top of pump it must slide all the way In Before bolting it up

I would always use a dial indicator to true converter, made pump bushings last longer is all
Reason we used kit
You can also pull pump apart and look at it just make sure gears go back in same way. It's just what I did. Don't like doing things twice

Finally the tractor has been repaired and runs like a champion.

Actually, I couldn't align the engine and torque converter with the oil pump because of my carport floor wasn't leveled

So, I had to split the center housing and rearend again.

After that, I put the dolly with a hydraulic jack moving the transmission easily.

It was so easy to align and put together in a couple tries.

That was the only way to do it.

Now, I had to reassemble the center housing and rearend.

But still, I couldn't align them easily.

Finally, I found the right-side rear tractor needed to lift about 2" so I put the board under the tire then was available to assemble them.
It took almost 3 days to figure out.

It takes about 1 month to repair completely including 2 weeks waiting for parts.

and repaired the tractor myself 2-3 hours per day to assemble due to the age.

Probably and possibly, this is the last time I split the tractor in my life.

 

[Dman1981]

Your an animal