Metric grease zerks

[Solo]

Does anyone know where to get a tool for metric grease zerks. I have a tool to remove SAE zerks and restore threads. I haven't even seen one for the metric ones.

Solo

 

[DieselPower]

Sorry to say I don't know of anyone that makes one. I checked my Lincoln, MSC, McMaster Carr and Granger catalogs and all they have is the 1/8" and 1/4" SAE fitting tools. Bummer

 

[BTDT]

Check with Snap-on or one of those type folks. Maybe a foreign car dealership (HONDA, Toyota, etc) and see where they get their stuff. Also maybe a motorcycle shop. If all else fails, drill it out and change to SAE threads.

 

[dfkrug]

Does anyone know where to get a tool for metric grease zerks. I have a tool to remove SAE zerks and restore threads. I haven't even seen one for the metric ones.

I don't use any special tool. I do find that a common metric size is
easily tappable to SAE, without even drilling out the hole. Of
course that is still problematic as you must have a way of getting
the metal cuttings out. Usually, when I break off a metric zerk, I just use
an "easy-out" and replace it with a metric zerk. This is one area
where easy-outs seem to work well.

 

[Soundguy]

What about taking a hard metric bolt, filing a slant groove in the base, and also taking the file to the first few threads to make them low, and then using that as a chase?

I've done that to sae threads .. that is.. get a gr8 or gr10 bolt and go.. Has worked fine..Might even add rubbing compound or valve grinding compound to the threads... and just work it a bit.. then blow clean before you remove too much meat..

Soundguy

 

[3RRL]

You can get metric taps at an industrial tool supply store just as easily as super hardened metric bolts. Bolts are not really meant for that anyway. (LOL ... Although like yourself Soundguy, I have done it in a pinch.) I think the metrics are usually 6mm, 8mm or 10mm so those taps are common. Those tap sizes are pretty handy to keep around seeing as a lot of little gadgets on almost all tractor brands now end up having some kind of small metric threads.

Also the chips from re-tapping or chasing tend to be soft (mild) steel. Although certainly not good for the wear surfaces, they are waaaay softer than sand particles that into the joints and bearings. I always try to get out as much of the chips as I can, but I don't sweat it too much. With hydraulic cylinders, it is a must to be free of chips. The rods are usually hard chrome plated but the sleeves are soft in many cylinders. Then there are the "O" rings and glands to worry about. But as far as pivots like on the bucket or other connections like that, they can stand some abuse and still function.

 

[roxynoodle]

Not to hijack this thread, but is anyone with metric zerks having problems getting grease in them? I have metric zerks on my tractor and I don't think my grease gun got grease into all of them. The grease gun works good on my implements, so I was thinking the tractor had "metric" ones and now after reading this I think I'm right. Do I need a special grease gun? Or perhaps I could replace the metric ones on my tractor with SAE ones?

 

[DieselPower]

The part that is metric is the threaded part that screws into the object being greased. The nipple part of SAE and Metric grease fitting's work in any grease gun coupler fitting. If your having problems getting grease into something I would supect that either the fitting's are bad (not likely), they are pluged up (very possible) or just inside past the grease fitting it is cloged with rust (also very likely).

To change from Metric to SAE fitting's you would have to remove the old grease fitting and tap the hole for SAE and then install a SAE fitting.

I would suggest removing one of your problem fitting's, sticking in in your grease gun coupler and see if any grease comes out. If it does then the problem is internal to what you are greasing, ie. cloged with rust or very hard dried out grease.

If you have access to a phenumatic grease gun try that. It creates alot more preasure than a normal hand operated one and will often purge out the blockage.

 

[Soundguy]

Yeah.. I probably should have been more clear.. i dind't mean to implyy that the hardend bolt idea was 'ideal'.. just that I had done it. Our local hardware store stocks a good selection of hard, and zinc coated fasteners.. both sae and metric.. what they don't stock are metric taps.

If I have to tap a hole that I can't clean out or disassemble, i add grease to the tap, and it generally catches -most- of the chips.

Soundguy

You can get metric taps at an industrial tool supply store just as easily as super hardened metric bolts. Bolts are not really meant for that anyway. (LOL ... Although like yourself Soundguy, I have done it in a pinch.) I think the metrics are usually 6mm, 8mm or 10mm so those taps are common. Those tap sizes are pretty handy to keep around seeing as a lot of little gadgets on almost all tractor brands now end up having some kind of small metric threads.

Also the chips from re-tapping or chasing tend to be soft (mild) steel. Although certainly not good for the wear surfaces, they are waaaay softer than sand particles that into the joints and bearings. I always try to get out as much of the chips as I can, but I don't sweat it too much. With hydraulic cylinders, it is a must to be free of chips. The rods are usually hard chrome plated but the sleeves are soft in many cylinders. Then there are the "O" rings and glands to worry about. But as far as pivots like on the bucket or other connections like that, they can stand some abuse and still function.

 

[roxynoodle]

The part that is metric is the threaded part that screws into the object being greased. The nipple part of SAE and Metric grease fitting's work in any grease gun coupler fitting. If your having problems getting grease into something I would supect that either the fitting's are bad (not likely), they are pluged up (very possible) or just inside past the grease fitting it is cloged with rust (also very likely).

To change from Metric to SAE fitting's you would have to remove the old grease fitting and tap the hole for SAE and then install a SAE fitting.

I would suggest removing one of your problem fitting's, sticking in in your grease gun coupler and see if any grease comes out. If it does then the problem is internal to what you are greasing, ie. cloged with rust or very hard dried out grease.

If you have access to a phenumatic grease gun try that. It creates alot more preasure than a normal hand operated one and will often purge out the blockage.

Thank you very much! That's what I needed to know. I suspect they are clogged with old grease.