Massey 65 questions

[cottermac]

I need a little help, I bought a Massey 65 that was my grandfather's and its been sitting for 10+ years. It turns over, but before I try to make it run I was wondering if their is anything else I should check out? I started by cleaning the tank, carburetor, and points. It has oil in it but I didn't know if I should change it before I started it or if it would be ok? I have never messed with something that has set this long and don't want to make an expensive mistake.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Pull the plugs and crank it over to make sure you can get oil pressure. It may take some time cranking but the oil pressure should come up. It desn't have to get high just make sure that the needle moves up so that it's pumping oil. if it doesn't show pressure, remove the oil linefrom the gauge and crank and see if you have oil coming out of the line. If you get it squirting out, that's good. if not, you'll have to drop the pan and make sure that you you don't have a broken pickup tube of a bunch of sludge blocking the pick up.
Check the coolant also and make sure that there it's at the correct level. Then start it and warm it up, watching the oil pressure and coolant temperature. Drive it around some to churn up the rear axle and transmission oil and warm it up. then drain and flush the coolant and drain the oil and replace the oil and filter. Grease the greae fitting and work it for awhile to warm up the rear axle fluid and then change that also.

 

[MasseyWV]

Has the tractor been stored outside or in a covered environment? If it has been stored outside, it's possible that water may have entered the engine crankcase, so you may want to consider changing the oil prior to cranking or attempting to start the engine. Also, it's possible that water may have entered the transmission/axle sumps so similar action may be called for there as well, if it has been stored outside.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I can pretty much tell by the pic that the MF65 has been stored inside...suggest (strongly) that you drain the oil before you try and get it started. over 10 years, everything in that engine that has "moved" is now sitting in the bottom of the sump...I wouldn't want to suck it up into the oil pump and send it back up the bearings or the valve train. As a matter of fact I bet that water condensation may be as much as a pint on the crankcase anyway...you won't have to change the oil filter yet, but drain the oil, and replace it with something like 10w-30 (thinner is better) to get it flowing good again. Good luck! BobG in VA

 

[cottermac]

It's alive! So after draining the oil and filling it with 5w 30 and changing the condenser it runs. I let it idle for about 30 minutes and then changed the oil and filter. Thanks for all the post, I was a little nervous about this project.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

It's alive! So after draining the oil and filling it with 5w 30 and changing the condenser it runs. I let it idle for about 30 minutes and then changed the oil and filter. Thanks for all the post, I was a little nervous about this project.

Wonderfull!!!!! That is one of the best tractors MF ever designed/built. Will handle most anything you throw at it. Did the battery show charge?? If not you should "flash" the generator to the BAT side of the VR...to get the current running in the right direction. More pictures is more better. PS: next time you run it, clutch it, put the PTO on and let is run as well...will give you an idea of the seal at the PTO. BobG in VA

 

[cottermac]

Wonderfull!!!!! That is one of the best tractors MF ever designed/built. Will handle most anything you throw at it. Did the battery show charge?? If not you should "flash" the generator to the BAT side of the VR...to get the current running in the right direction. More pictures is more better. PS: next time you run it, clutch it, put the PTO on and let is run as well...will give you an idea of the seal at the PTO. BobG in VA

Bob to my surprise everything works,the gauges, light, and generator. Thanks for the advice.
Another question, How long would you wait before pulling a disc with a tractor that has sat for that long?

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Bob to my surprise everything works,the gauges, light, and generator. Thanks for the advice.
Another question, How long would you wait before pulling a disc with a tractor that has sat for that long?

How long? About the amount of time it will take me hook it up! (grin)..How big of a disk is it? by the way how are tires? Also, I note that you have a power steering pump on the tractor...maybe you should try and replace the power steering fluid as well...the MF units are famous for being somewhat finicky...my 135 is manual so I'm not an expert, but some other folks here with 135s with PS may be able to jump in...at least "suck" as much fluid out as you can and replace it with fresh..Great news about the guages, etc. looks like you have a winner there..how many hours are on the clock? BobG in VA

 

[cottermac]

How long? About the amount of time it will take me hook it up! (grin)..How big of a disk is it? by the way how are tires? Also, I note that you have a power steering pump on the tractor...maybe you should try and replace the power steering fluid as well...the MF units are famous for being somewhat finicky...my 135 is manual so I'm not an expert, but some other folks here with 135s with PS may be able to jump in...at least "suck" as much fluid out as you can and replace it with fresh..Great news about the guages, etc. looks like you have a winner there..how many hours are on the clock? BobG in VA

Bob its a 10 foot disc, I think it will pull it all right. The tires and rims are the weak point of the machine. The backs have calcium in them and the rims are getting thin and the tires have alot of dry rot. The front were in the mud and they need replaced. As for the hour meter, it's at 2245 and climbing.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Bob its a 10 foot disc, I think it will pull it all right. The tires and rims are the weak point of the machine. The backs have calcium in them and the rims are getting thin and the tires have alot of dry rot. The front were in the mud and they need replaced. As for the hour meter, it's at 2245 and climbing.

As with Strontium 90, 2245 isn't even at half life...suggest you get 3 rib fronts, especially if you are gonna use ground engaging equipment. If you have dry rot on the rears, plus calcium cloride, you will probably be seeing new rims/tires in the not too distant future..I can see Johnny Carson holding that envelope up to his forhead now (as Karnack the Great...I know, I'm dating myself now..). Hook up that disc and let us know how it goes. bobg in va