LS XJ2025H new owner

   / LS XJ2025H new owner #1  

CMV

Platinum Member
Joined
May 10, 2015
Messages
877
Location
NC
Tractor
Kioti NX4510HST (previous LS XJ2025H, JD 500C)
Bought a slightly used (~40 hrs) 2017 tractor. A little smaller than what I was looking for but was what I could afford and seems like it will be capable for what I need to do. Has the loader, R4 tires, and a 5' bush hog.

Let me start out by stating I'm a tractor novice. Other than the very basics of operation assume I know nothing. I'm sure some very dumb questions will follow :)

My primary use is mowing/maintaining about 6AC. Land is mostly flat, but lots of ruts, rocks, drainage issues. Also maintaining a couple 8' tall dirt berms for shooting backstops.

1. I didn't get an owner's manual with it. Emailed LS asking about a link to download but no answer yet. So I have no idea what fluids/lube/filters to use. Don't even know what it will need. I'm sure every zerk fitting needs greased every so often, but no idea which type of grease to use. Will it need oil or hydraulic fluid other than for scheduled oil changes? I noticed caps at front axle so assume I should be checking oil there too at some interval and adding some oil there as well if needed. Basically, I'm asking for a shopping list if anyone knows specifically what I should have on-hand for general upkeep. Hopefully all things I can get at AutoZone, WalMart, NAPA, etc.

2. 1st service due at 50 hrs. If that's just an oil change and hitting all the grease fittings, is there any reason to drag it to the dealer & pay them to do it vs me doing that? Are there other critical things that are inspected, changed, adjusted, etc at that first service that would be foolish to neglect carrying it to the dealer and paying them for the service?

3. When it's time to do upkeep on the berms that's a LOT of dirt moving. A lot to me anyway - about 3-4 triaxle loads of NC red clay fill dirt in each one. I initially rented a JD310 to build them first time. From there I bought a real old JD500 backhoe, but it was just too old and when the head gasket went that was last straw and I gave up on keeping it. But anyway, those big machines and high dump clearance made short work of it. Hoe on back meant huge heaping scoop of dirt was no issue. Compared to those, I'm sure it will be much slower going and will have to work around the low bucket height. But with a machine this light I'm guessing I will want a lot of rear weight. What are some good ways of going about that? I'm kind of thinking a carryall for the 3pt hitch that I can load with blocks or whatever would be good since that's not semi-permanent like wheel weights or filling rear tires. But really no idea. Is there any drawback to filled tires or wheel weights when I'm not moving dirt? If I'm just out bush hogging for example would I benefit from the weight then too? Or just burn more fuel or be too heavy in the back since the bush hog is hanging way out there?

4. Since I will need to get dirt piled, shaped, and somewhat compacted up to 8' I will need to ramp up so I can reach the top. What kind of angle can I reasonably climb? As long as the curled bucket lifted no higher than about the headlights can clear it is it safe to assume the tractor can climb it?

5. Since I no longer have a backhoe I'm thinking an auger-type post hole digger would work when I need small holes. I've pretty much dug out all great big rocks or stumps when I had a backhoe, but lots of times it was nice to just dig a small hole when needed. But my land is very rocky and I have never used one of those - handheld or 3pt type. How do they deal with rocks under the soil? Wondering if I would just tear it up, find out it doesn't work well when faced with softball-football sized rocks, or would do a great job putting holes wherever I wanted.

6. I have a lot of erosion issues. Land is all clay and doesn't absorb water well. As water finds a place to go, it cuts ruts. I'm continuously battling this and have found crushed concrete works well to fill an area and then stay put vs washing out again. So I do a lot of filling and smoothing in spots as general upkeep. Have just drug the backhoe front bucket in reverse and some down pressure on it and that seems to work. Can I do the same with this smaller machine and lighter gauge steel bucket or is that a quick way to break something? If a rear scrape or box blade would be much better for that sort of thing which one and what size?

That's all I can think of for now. If there is anything specific to my LS XJ2025H I need to watch out for or be aware of, please let me know that too. Watched one youtube video where the owner had complaints of the oil dipstick coming loose, coolant overflow leaking, and a hydraulic line rubbing rear tire but otherwise haven't come across a whole lot about these tractors.
 
   / LS XJ2025H new owner #3  
The manual link by Thirdman will be real helpful. Here are some part numbers on PM items:
• Oil Filter, PN 40056451. have 50 hours
• Fuel Filter, PN 40223960.
• Air Filter, PN 40049450. Service 50 hours
• Hydraulic Filter, PN 40220109. 50 hours
• HST Filter, PN 40195621. suction 50 hours ae-25 zinga
• LSTH400 oil to top filters
Wix Oil Filter- 57040 napa 1358
Wix Air Filter- 46449 napa 6449 kohler 2508302s
Wix Fuel Filter- 33830 napa 3830

I used the LS engine oil filter and whatever the synthetic Rotella is @ 50 hours. t6? At 50 the two hydraulic filters are due. I used a CNH (LS) filter and the Zinga as that is what comes from LS. To me that is important. I did change the fluid, but you don't have to. Have extra for topping .
3) I think that the weights on the 3 point are more effective at countering what's in bucket. Working on slope side to side, the fluid in the tires have a low center of gravity. With a brush hog, no matter. 4) The tractor does get around well. I would work carefully knowing that you are on a light machine and weight/ loads shift as you work your slope. A lot can change quickly. 5) I had a hand held model and for my purposes does the job where I want the holes. I've not used a 3 point auger myself, but I'm told they work easily. If I had a lot to do where the tractor would fit, I'd rent one. Smaller rocks are manageable. Big ones not so much. I did grab and old underground feeder wire that stopped me dead in my tracks once though! 6) The very first thing I did was to cut out a toothbar out of 1/2 plate- like you see the BXpanded people make. I think the edge on the bucket as it comes is 1/2" ? and it seems sturdy. I think the bar I made was out of 5 or 6" wide stock and it isn't moving. I think something like this would be helpful for you as well. You see those tractors with a smile on the bucket edge? You can do downward pressure in moving material as well as using it in float mode and drag rearward. Jam the joystick upward and you're in float mode. More info on the tractor? I saw that same video and it sounded like he was going to buy the next one up. Wonder how that worked out for him? Plas62 , a member here had a thread from when he got his that was helpful for me. I dealt with the hoses under the floor before anything would have rubbed through. I did have an issue when I saw the dipstick was not fully pushed in once and thought maybe it was me. After seeing the video you mentioned, I put a small bungie on mine to be sure. I finally broke the muffler last week and ordered another from my dealer. Today I welded and reinforced the old one. Now to find my header paint. The last quirk that I can think of was that the front axle leaks at the vent. I finally decided that it likes to be 1/2 way up the crossed hatched area of the dipstick and spits out anything more. Enjoy the new tractor!
 
   / LS XJ2025H new owner #4  
Hi CMV,

Stick with factory oil filters both Hyd/HST and engine. Rotella T6 5-40 synthetic in the engine and Kubota SUDT2 synthetic for the transmission if hydrostatic is excellent. Grease use Texas Refinery (TRC) 880 crown and chassis with 100lb Timken load for all fittings avail @ Amazon or call Chappell Tractor in Milford, NH they ship it everywhere. Using cheap oil in hydraulic system and auto store filters leads to whine/howl in hydro transmissions. Been there and done that with Case/IH. New Holland sells the same tractor so filters should be no issue.

Brian
 
   / LS XJ2025H new owner
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks for the links to owners manual. Very helpful!

Tomplum - where did you get those p/n's for filters and such? I didn't see in manual so wondering if you just made a list from what was on yours or if you found them somewhere else.

Forgive another real dumb question - if I get the tires filled (or is there a way to do it myself?), they still get air added and go to same PSI as not filled?

No idea how tough these tires are but I have a lot of little stalks, thorny bushes, etc that wreak havoc on a regular riding mower tires. I'm sure tractor tires are a little tougher, but what happens if I get rear tires filled & then one gets a leak? Would assume even if i plugged it and filled with air, having fluid in one side & not the other couldn't be good...
 
   / LS XJ2025H new owner #6  
I have a service manual and parts list, though you can find them online for LS. Plus Messicks has New Holland Boomer 24 IPLs. I ordered the one hydraulic filter from them for sure plus some other goodies. People like Dana/ WIX oil filters so I listed them and would use them if I needed to. I used the Amsoil fluid as that what Plas62 used and he was pleased with it. I'm sure if you changed the fluid and used the SUDT2 it would be great . Hydraulic fluid for topping the unit off can be anything certified for wet brakes and in the proper range. There are many threads and ewetube videos on filling your tires w/ various fluids. It may be a good idea to use an inner tube, but certainly more work. My guess is that if luck was with you and you had a simple puncture, you could put the puncture point at the top and attempt to plug it. Messy repair otherwise. If you found that you live in puncture land, you could have the tires foamed. Takes some of the cush out of tires as I understand. I've not filled my tires so I have no PE on this one for you.
 
   / LS XJ2025H new owner
  • Thread Starter
#7  
All 5 filters were $90 + shipping from Messick's. Sound about right or better place to get next time it needs them?
 
   / LS XJ2025H new owner #8  
Seems pretty good to me. I think they sell the filter kits on EBay for nearly twice that. It seems to me that I got the Zinga filter from Amazon. Maybe it saved me 10$? Messicks is A OK in my book.
 
   / LS XJ2025H new owner #9  
Hi CMV,

Stick with factory oil filters both Hyd/HST and engine. Rotella T6 5-40 synthetic in the engine and Kubota SUDT2 synthetic for the transmission if hydrostatic is excellent. Grease use Texas Refinery (TRC) 880 crown and chassis with 100lb Timken load for all fittings avail @ Amazon or call Chappell Tractor in Milford, NH they ship it everywhere. Using cheap oil in hydraulic system and auto store filters leads to whine/howl in hydro transmissions. Been there and done that with Case/IH. New Holland sells the same tractor so filters should be no issue.

Brian

Brand new forum member. Picked up a 2016 XJ2025H with 250 hours. "Gentleman" who owned it told me it was ready for the 250 hour service. Checked the oil and discovered he probably never changed the oil, and I'm gonna say he probably never even looked at the grease fittings/hydro.

So based on the info in this thread, I picked up all 5 filters, the grease, and a service manual. Can somebody put the engine oil and hydro liquid capacities here so I can get those as well before my service manual arrives?

Also, do I have to go through the dealer to get the dipstick recall parts? Or can I just use my S/N and have a dealer (none close) send the part?

Thanks in advance!
 
   / LS XJ2025H new owner #10  
Congrats and welcome. The engine oil is basically a gallon, I think the spec is 1.1 gallons actually. A 5 gallon pail of fluid will more than cover the HST oil change. I used The synthetic Rotella and the Amsoil tractor fluid myself.
 

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