low kickback vs full chisel chain

[coolhl7]

I have always used a low kickback chain but I can get a good deal on some
20 inch full chisel chains. Is there really a noticable difference in kickback?
I have heard the argument that if you are careful to begin with there should be no need for low kickback chains......it seems to me, with my technique I only begin to experience any kickback at all when the chain starts to get dull or I try to attack a cluster of vines (probably not good for the chain anyhow).Thanks....

 

[Defective]

Full chisel chains are a lot more aggressive. If you're not used to them, they'll wear you out. Yes, they do cut faster, but only if you can keep control of the saw. Even professional cutters generally use low-kickback chains.

 

[Skyco]

My saw came with the low kickback. I have bought several Oregon brand chains that weren't low kickback. No comparison in my experience. I'll take the regular old style anyday and try to be careful

 

[Defective]

Which model chain are you using from Oregon?

Most of their product line are either low-kickback or, at least, reduced-kickback. You might be surprised...

 

[Skyco]

Don't know right off, the package is 2 hours away at my property. I do know it doesn't have that extra protrusion that sticks out as it comes around the end of the bar....it is a 78 tooth .325 pitch .050 gauge chain...

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Low kick back chain is like chain with training wheels. Most of your kickback comes from the tip of your saw. Usually if it gets a little pinched if you are cutting wood that is under load of some sort. Say a branch sticking up and you cut it there is torsion there. Or cutting a log that has downward pressure which will pinch. Where guys will get in trouble is they get complacent and try to cut too quickly. Especially if they are getting tired from lugging a saw for awhile. The reaction time to get the saw out of a bind will slow down. Or just don't use the tip of the bar helps a lot. The Chisel, skip tooth, and semi chisel are more aggresive and can cut faster. Like any chain though keeping it sharp helps. I have skip tooth chain on the 40" bar for my large Husky saw. Then round chisel for my medium saws and my topping saws. Mainly because it is cheap in loops and I can sharpen it quickly. In my mind the low kickback isn't a bad idea for people that aren't used to cutting. Or that are going to be doing a lot of cutting that they normally don't do where they might fatigue. Try not to use the tip of the saw to cut wood that is under a load. Especially branches. One of the few times that I have had a kickback was when I was 10 years old cutting firewood. The branch pinched the saw and kicked it towards my knee. Just a small scar to show for that one. The only other memorable kickback was hitting barbed wire that had grown into the trunk of a tree. That kicked it back and tapped me on the scalp below the hairline. No scar from that one. Thank God. Not too bad considering 40 years of cutting trees.

 

[gordon21]

Interesting info on this site.

Oregon® .325"-Pitch Chains for Chain Saws

 

[Kessler Farms]

I use the Stihl Rapid Super chains on all of my saws, and throw away the anti-kickback chains. All they are good for is to work you to death. If you've never been around saws or used one or been taught how to use one, chances are you don't need a chainsaw.

 

[coolhl7]

I have a stihl 260 pro 18 inch and a stihl 361 20 inch and I work the **** out of them. I have 40 acres of woods and alot of Hurricaine blowdown to deal with as well as large non-natve invasive trees I have to remove. I have only used the low kickback chains since it is easy to get fatigued in the Florida heat and humidity with sweat often dripping in your eyes, esp wearing boots, chaps, helmet and long sleeve shirts. The problem is all the vines and small branches quickly dull the chain....Maybe I would be better off with a full chisel on the 361 and semichisel on the 260 and use the smaller one for branches and vines and dirtier wood.

 

[Kessler Farms]

There's just a huge difference in cutting ease with a good chain (non-safety). I've got 2 Stihl 025s, an MS 361, and an MS 460 Magnum, all of which with the rapid-super chains. It's night and day. As an example, my son and I were repairing fence today where a huge red oak had fallen. The tree was 44" at the base. Once we got the stump cut off, we lit in cutting the tree up for wood, along with help from my neighbor (tree was in a line fence). He was using a Stihl 044 with a fairly new safety chain, me with the 460. I was cutting through the trunk before he was half way through. He had a pile of sawdust under him, and mine looked more like a wood chipper. Bigger bite, more speed, less time, less effort. If you know how to use your saw, get a good chain. My opinion.