Low cost trailer modifications.

[QRTRHRS]

I thought that I would share some simple but effective modifications I have made to my 10k equipment trailer that I mostly use to haul a load of hay for our horses. These mods are also helpful for other uses.

I usually load 100 bales of hay. On the flat side, I can get five layers, twenty bales each. This load was loaded with a grapple. My hay supplier uses an accumulator to gather his small bales then picks them up with the grapple. He cannot get them into his hay barn which I will explain later but he does easily load them onto wagons to get the bales out of the weather until his customers can pick them up. The grapple picks up eight bales at a time. Two "drops" leaves room for four more bales plus a little extra so on this load, I placed the last two on the flat to just about touch the ramps. My guy only had 94 bales on hand and the last one was a "starter" bale, ie; the first one baled and a bit loose so I ran the rear two straps in an "x" pattern to ensure that it stayed put.

With the narrow trailer, loading on the side makes for a tall load hence I use plenty of straps to secure the load.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Note the 6 inch PVC pipe split in half with brackets to keep the straps from digging into the hay bales. I can make the hour back road trip with the straps loosening very little. The longer one is usually used on the front of my load but due to the less than full load and the one loose bale, I placed it on the rear for this load.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Now for the mods. I welded "D" rings onto the front load stop to secure my flathooks. The vertical angles were only factory welded to the vertical flat side of the angle so I had to also weld them to the flat side under the rings. Prior to this mod, I had to use axle straps on the trailer frame.

 

[QRTRHRS]

I had welded these "D" rings onto the fenders a couple of years ago hence the rust on the support angles. The trailer came with a vertical angle to support the fender. I added a horizontal angle and diagonal angle to secure my bolt on D ring. This gave me a latch point in between the stake pockets on each end of the fenders.

 

[QRTRHRS]

The weather in my neck of the woods has allowed only so many hay making windows. My hay guy has moved all of his small bales as soon as he puts them up and not put any in the barn. Being a bank barn with the storage access being about five feet off of the ground, any hay put up there is done the hard way.

I made up the center ramp to replace a piece of plywood that we used to slide the bales onto the trailer deck rather than toss them. I took an old ladder and widened it to fit onto the pins that hold my ramps on. The one foot spacing on the ladder lines up with the angles on my ramp. In the verticle position, the ramp is secured by sliding a piece of heavy wall conduit through the angles. I used some 1/4" aluminum stock to make open brackets to secure the bottom. I can also use the ramp to walk bales of other items onto the trailer. (I also have a heavier ramp with no gaps to load heavy items by hand or with a cart). The ramp also makes for a nice backstop.

Lastly, I put some oval lifting rings on the pins that hold my ramps. Prior to this, I had to use axle straps to secure my straps to the rear of the trailer.

 

[dieselscout80]

The weather in my neck of the woods has allowed only so many hay making windows. My hay guy has moved all of his small bales as soon as he puts them up and not put any in the barn. Being a bank barn with the storage access being about five feet off of the ground, any hay put up there is done the hard way.

I made up the center ramp to replace a piece of plywood that we used to slide the bales onto the trailer deck rather than toss them. I took an old ladder and widened it to fit onto the pins that hold my ramps on. The one foot spacing on the ladder lines up with the angles on my ramp. In the verticle position, the ramp is secured by sliding a piece of heavy wall conduit through the angles. I used some 1/4" aluminum stock to make open brackets to secure the bottom. I can also use the ramp to walk bales of other items onto the trailer. (I also have a heavier ramp with no gaps to load heavy items by hand or with a cart). The ramp also makes for a nice backstop.

Lastly, I put some oval lifting rings on the pins that hold my ramps. Prior to this, I had to use axle straps to secure my straps to the rear of the trailer.View attachment 877500View attachment 877501View attachment 877502

I really like the center ramp design!

 

[Alan W.]

Yes I like the mods. Ive been toying with some sort of ramp addition so I can load my zero turn.
I have a Gatormade also. Did you pick yours up at the factory or from a dealer.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Yes I like the mods. Ive been toying with some sort of ramp addition so I can load my zero turn.
I have a Gatormade also. Did you pick yours up at the factory or from a dealer.

I went to the factory. Feb 2021 during Covid. $4180 out the door with a spare being the only option. They had six on the lot. No one else had any 10k equipment trailers in stock.

 

[QRTRHRS]

I really like the center ramp design!

I made the ramp by cutting an old aluminum ladder in half and using scrap PVC and metal pipe to widen it. I sized the 1/4" aluminum brackets to drop onto the ramp pins while wedging against the trailer when upright so it stays put. While it does hold me if I walk on it, it is not heavy enough for much else.

I have a heavier ramp made with wood that I cobbled together in order to move some household goods with a hand truck. I will post some photos. It may give you some ideas but it's heavy to work with. I keep my eyes open for some scrap aluminum angle or channel to make something strong but light weight.

 

[Alan W.]

I was also looking for a 10k trailer and went to the factory to see one. Then I saw a 14k with the wide ramps. It was a little over $6000, cant remember exact amount in 2023.
Occasionally Sandusky’s in Columbia has aluminum cutoffs fairly reasonable. Ive bought a lot of steel from them.