Loose loader bolts

[chuck172]

I've read about kioti loader bolts loosening. I got 30 hrs. on my new dk and I'd like to check them. Which bolts should I specifically look at at what's the torque value?

 

[jpm1]

Personally i would check all the bolts that attach the loader mounting frame to the tractor. I don't worry about specs I just tighten them reasonably. Mine has 1437 hours and found none loose. Guess it comes down to the dealer setup, but again thats my opinion . . . John

 

[texasjohn]

Yep, loader bolts, all brands, need to be checked...particularly new ones. I checked mine on Kubota with 500+ hrs on it. One side was so tight I couldn't get any more. Other side , all the bolts went up to a half turn more. Don't recall recommended torque values but they were very high. My net is to get on them with a big socket wrench and get them absolutely as tight as you can without a cheater bar or standing on it. I think I used a breaker bar that was about a foot and half long. There have been quite a few reports of people checking their loader bolts for the first time and finding some loose, some very loose.

Check all bolts where loader arms bolt up to tractor .

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

Check all bearing box bolts....get your owner's manual out, for diagram with all bolt locations, and size.... nominal torque values for most sae and metric size bolts in the same loader manual. (the bolt sizes listed are the thread....not the head)

Might not hurt to check the wheels too.

I don't believe Kioti bolts loosen. The problem, more often than not, is just sloppy installation by someone at your dealer. These tractors arrive there in a crate, then someone has to install wheels, loaders, etc, etc. Not all wrench turners are created equal.

 

[chuck172]

What are the bearing box bolts? The pivot pin bolts?

 

[Avondale]

The bolts on my DK-35 loader do back off. I check, re-tighten if required, every time I do an oil change or before major loader work projects. I spoke to my Dealer, he suggested I apply Red Locktite, (which I will use next time I check them). The nuts/bolts on sub-frame assy seem to stay tight, just the threaded bolts into the frame seem to loosen.

 

[k0ua]

It is not just Kioti loader bolts.. ALL loader bolts back off for a period of time. You should check torque when you get the tractor, then at 25 hours, then every 50 hours up to about 150 hours, You will find that as time goes on they don't loosen up. A lot of guys mark the bolt heads to keep an eye on it. By bearing box, he means the upright pillars to U channel steel the ends of the loader arms "bear" into. These are bolted to the tractor itself. Designs vary. The larger bolts are somewhere around 160 ft lbs, some less. You just need the loader manual (Dealer gave me mine) and tighten per spec, or get the size of the metric bolts and look up the generic bolt torques for that size of bolt on the internet. Locktite is not a bad idea. I had a lot of the little bolts that hold in the greased pins that kept getting loose. I used red locktite on them. Also check the wheel bolts on the same schedule. If you don't you wheel bolt holes will "egg" out, and be ruined.

If you read old threads on here, many different brands have suffered from bolt neglect, by snapping off the bolts leaving pieces in the tractor or even busting out the castings.

 

[oosik]

I check ALL the bolts on my Kubota once annually. Never found a loose one but it just good insurance. This includes all the bolts on the FEL sub-frame, elsewhere on the tractor and all the wheel nuts. The torque requirements on the bolts on my FEL subframe range from 225 foot pounds and higher. Actually, its higher than I can "do" without the use of an extended length torque wrench. I look like some kind of spastic monkey when under the tractor checking torque on those large subframe bolts.

Avondale - I would suggest using BLUE Locktite on the bolts for your FEL subframe. Using RED says you never are going to remove the subframe or at least it will be with a great deal of difficulty. RED is normally used where bolts are subjected to high heat and then cooling - head bolts.

IMHO

 

[ritcheyvs]

... Avondale - I would suggest using BLUE Locktite on the bolts for your FEL subframe. Using RED says you never are going to remove the subframe or at least it will be with a great deal of difficulty. RED is normally used where bolts are subjected to high heat and then cooling - head bolts. ...

I agree with the blue Locktite recommendation. The red stuff tends to be semi-permanent; sometimes it takes a torch to break red Locktite. Red Locltite might be OK if the only mechanism is the nut backing off. But I suspect things like paint compression and wear metal deformation, etc. contribute to lose loader bolts. Red Locktite could make the bolts feel tight when they aren't

 

[Hill Billy Bob]

I agree with the blue Locktite recommendation. The red stuff tends to be semi-permanent; sometimes it takes a torch to break red Locktite. Red Locltite might be OK if the only mechanism is the nut backing off. But I suspect things like paint compression and wear metal deformation, etc. contribute to lose loader bolts. Red Locktite could make the bolts feel tight when they aren't

One more vote for the Blue Loctite.... if you should ever want or need to remove them, and you use the red stuff, you will have a lot of paint burned off your tractor before the job is done.

 

[IslandTractor]

Make sure to check the bolts where the loader tower connects to the engine block. Those worked loose on my DK40se. I check annually and they've been tight for the last couple of years. I don't quite remember but I think I used blue Loctite when I reinstalled them. One had been lost before I recognized the problem. Need a torque wrench to get them tight. Torque value is in the maintenance manual which I don't have access to right now.

 

[Avondale]

Thanks for the recommendation. I have not applied anything yet as I assumed that in -20c to -30c, it may be tough for me to get it put on. Is there a temp level that this stuff needs to cure properly?

 

[GManBart]

Thanks for the recommendation. I have not applied anything yet as I assumed that in -20c to -30c, it may be tough for me to get it put on. Is there a temp level that this stuff needs to cure properly?

That varies by brand, strength, etc, but should be listed on the bottle.

 

[KiotiJason]

My dealer advised that it's the bolts stretching. I confirmed this as I put indicator marks on the nut and bolt to check for movement. After about 80 odd hours they settled down but I still check them. Also make sure you check the mounting bolts as well. I just nip them up and make sure I keep the greese up to the joints.

 

[Avondale]

Thanks, again. I have not bought the Locktite (yet) as we are suppose to stay below freezing for next 14 days (if you can trust the Weather Network 14 day trend)

 

[Fuggley]

Thanks, again. I have not bought the Locktite (yet)

You should avoid getting that stuff anywhere near plastic parts. Locktite will destroy plastic! Personally I don't trust Locktite in combination with nylon lock nuts and I prefer to just replace those if they wear out. I don't think it is supposed to destroy nylon though but it will dissolve most plastics so watch where you use it.