Loose FEL lever on my CK25

[Desert Moose]

After I had my CK25 a couple of hours, the FEL lever came loose. Turns out the locknut at the bottom of the lever backed off. The dealer came right out and tightened it. Been fine.
Now I have 47 hours on it, and the lever came loose again. This time it's not the locknut. It doesn't rotate about the thread like last time. This time it "flops" forward at about a 45* angle. Can still operate the FEL by pushing it, but it's not right.

Called the dealer, he said I'd need to take it in, he knows what happened and has to disassemble it to get the the broken nylon fitting....

Will be taking it down in the next day or two.

What worries me, is this a common problem that I'll be having to fix myself once it's out of warranty?

Anyone else had the same problem?

Thanks, Sam

 

[gravel13]

I know there have been a few others that had the same issue. If you search you will probably come across the threads. I have 110 hrs on my CK25 and haven't had a problem yet, other than the FEL cracking but that is a WHOLE other issue. I can't remember anyone having the nylon ball at the bottom replaced with a new one and having that one break. So if memory serves me, it shouldn't be a recurring issue. Good luck with it and keep us posted.

 

[Highbeam]

I've done it. The ball commonly pops out of the socket when you fall on the stick or are somehow rough with it. For me it happened when trying to push the stick forward into the float position. I was able to reinsert the ball into the socket but it was easily popped back out and ultilmately replaced under warranty. Fairly common and fairly cheap part to replace.

I don't even try and use the float function anymore in part for fear of popping my ball again. I am gentle with the stick.

 

[Agentiron]

I have had it happen as well. It was replaced under warranty. I am begining to wonder if the part is actually cheap. I had backhoe control arm pop off. A nut backed off, and a bolt broke off with no abuse, and not a great deal of use. Price for two small balls on threaded rods plus small box where balls sit....aproximately $420. Installation $90 for five minutes work....Wow

 

[pheesh]

I had the same problem. See this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/93818-loose-joystick-help.html

 

[Desert Moose]

Ok, dropped it off last night. The dealer said he's seen this happen twice on other tractors. He seems to think that once it's fixed, I should be OK from then on.

It did come loose when I was smoothing the side yard. Was going back and forth, raising it and then dropping it into float and backdragging. I wouldn't think the way I was using the lever that I was forcing it or abusing it in any way. It should take the load that you put on it without having to stop and think that "I have to be gentle with this so it doesn't break..." I guess I'll just have to be real gentle with it in the future.

It will be fixed when his tech comes in saturday. I'll be getting in one last camping trip then, so will pick it up next week.

Sam

 

[darkviper]

I had the issue to on my CK20. Mine was because of the float sticking. I have found out that you have to remove the detent and oil it every so often and the problem is gone. The part you need to do it your self is called a cenimatic kit and cost about $90. It comes with the 3 balls and a new carrier for the lever. Takes about an hour to install and you can do it yourself if you are handy.

 

[mrutkaus]

Would you run thru the details of "removing the detent and oiling it"...would like to do that on my K130.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[mrutkaus]

So the deal seems to be avoid the float position? That's too bad, I just discovered it recently after two years! But it does seem to require a bit of force and that may be bad.

Mike

 

[darkviper]

To remove the detent is very simple unless it is locked up then you will need pliers and something to pry with. Here is the steps.

1- Under the right fender where the loader valve block is
2- Look towards the front of the tractor and there will be a tapered cylender
pointing to the front. It will be the closest to you.
3-There will be 2 small allen screws.
4- remove the screws and as long as it isnt locked into float it will come off
easy
5- once removed you will see three small balls in the bottom. This is the detent.
I filled the whole thing with oil and let it soak for about 30 minutes then used a 1/4 drive extension in a drill to stick down the hole and spin thoes balls clean. You want the extension to be a little snug when you push it in to work.

If the detent is locked in float take extream caution when prying not to scratch or damage that flat surface that the detent goes back to the block or you will have a leak. Also do this where you will not kick any dust up into that hydraulic action.

Once you do this the float will work fine. I reccommend placing a thin film of synthetic grease on the balls and the detent of the valve assembly. I have not had any problemss siince. Let me know if you need pictures