Backhoe looking to purchase TLB for 30 acre homested

   / looking to purchase TLB for 30 acre homested
  • Thread Starter
#61  
I don't know those 580s like I do the 310s. But lots of friends have them and love them. My impression is that the Case 580 was designed a bit more towards owner maintenance and upkeep than the JD or Cats - and I do like that. Overall this one sounds pretty good. You'll want to check the clutch to see how it feels. Is there any way to check how much life is left in that mechanical clutch plate and throw out? I don't know, hope someone here does. Sometimes you just have to go with what you feel.



If hydraulics whine it is the pump and is due to either it is low on fluid or has been run low. DO NOT RUN ANY TRACTOR LOW ON HYDRAULIC OIL.
ADD OIL NOW!.
What happens when a fluid pump gets low is that air gets entrained into the fluid and that makes micro-bubbles. As the pump works it shears the bubbles which is what is causing a whine initially. But eventually the exploding micro bubbles also are like little bombs and erode the close tolerance faces of the pump. So if this goes on for awhile that eroded surface in the pump will also will begin to whine even after fluid is added. What it means is that pump now has a limited lifespan. You have no idea if that means months or years....but it will eventually weaken and may just flat fail. On a whiner, change hydraulic filters often, consider adding a bypass filter to catch the sub-micron crud. Too bad, but not the end of the world. The reality is that all hydraulic pumps eventually wear faces and seals. Check pump prices though.

Why the rust? Parking lot salt & fertilizer?
rScotty


I think you hit the nail on the head. I'l bet it was used to load salt/sand into the snow removal trucks during the winter. I never even thought of that.
that would account for the front bucket being a little more rusty (but patched up and welded) then I would have expected.

and YES !! no kidding with that hyd oil. I'm bringing a bucket of fluid when I go back to check it with my mechanic this week. I'm a little disturbed about that whole fiasco, hopefully it's not chronic. it's the backup machine so I don't think it's been run heavily with low hyd oil.....no way to tell except be a good detective I guess.
 
   / looking to purchase TLB for 30 acre homested #63  
The biggest issue for me on big cylinders is getting the gosh dang gland nut off. IMO, worst case, you spend a few hundred $ to have a shop do it. I've paid just to have them crack it open. Don't let that stop you as cylinder issues are innevitable at your price point.

Also IMO I would not do the other side unless it's leaking excessively.

Did the breaks work?

I agree; one side at a time. I use to do both sides, but experience has taught me that if cylinder wear is predictable, I sure can't do it. Another thing I've noticed is that rarely is that even when a cylinder is howling and and leaking there ever fatal damage to the cylinder, piston, or rod. Most of the time it is simply seals & dirt behind the seals. Taking it apart, cleaning it out, and replacing all the seals is bread and butter for the small hydraulic shop.
Low parts cost and high labor content.

With labor being most of the cost, the price to do cylinder seals can vary quite a bit from one small shop to the next. But I haven't found a corresponding variation in quality. I've got one shop I like to use and simply take all my work to him. I've noticed that he employs one older guy who does nothing except replace seals in cylinders. These days I tend to treat myself. I'll undo the hoses, seal up the ports, and pull the cylinder off. But then it goes to the shop.
rScotty
 

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