Looking at quick hitches

[juddspaintballs]

I have a Kubota MX5100 with a Category II 3-point hitch. The first implement I got was a 6' brush hog that I just changed the lower pins to Cat II size and away I went with it. Eventually, I got a 5' finish mower and just used the adapter bushings to make Cat I pins work on the Cat II 3-point. No problem and not a big deal since those were my only implements.

Now I'm getting into actually using the tractor for more than lifting things and mowing and I'm looking at quick hitches. I still have both of those mowers, though the finish mower would probably not see much action anymore. I'm getting a 6' rototiller, possibly a post driver, a bottom plow, and a box blade now. Considering most implements will normally come in Cat I sizing, do I want a Cat I quick hitch or Cat II?

I'm looking at the Speeco QH's from Everything Attachments so far, but I'm open to other ones as well. Bushing or bushingless?

 

[bcp]

Cat 2 quick hitch hooks are about 5 1/2 inches farther apart than Cat 1.

Bruce

 

[Cranblue]

I have a Kubota MX5100 with a Category II 3-point hitch. The first implement I got was a 6' brush hog that I just changed the lower pins to Cat II size and away I went with it. Eventually, I got a 5' finish mower and just used the adapter bushings to make Cat I pins work on the Cat II 3-point. No problem and not a big deal since those were my only implements.

Now I'm getting into actually using the tractor for more than lifting things and mowing and I'm looking at quick hitches. I still have both of those mowers, though the finish mower would probably not see much action anymore. I'm getting a 6' rototiller, possibly a post driver, a bottom plow, and a box blade now. Considering most implements will normally come in Cat I sizing, do I want a Cat I quick hitch or Cat II?

I'm looking at the Speeco QH's from Everything Attachments so far, but I'm open to other ones as well. Bushing or bushingless?

I have L4701 Cat I three point hitch I use Land pride Q15 hitch which handles I and II. I purchased a Titian cat II ballast box because I wanted weight it would hold but when hooking up to hitch I have Cat II pins on box pointing inwards at one another works fine.My Cat I attachments just use bushings.I guess I would go Cat II and bush Cat I one pins you can go smaller on CatII but Cat I your locked in but you have Cat II on tractor you could use.I’m a fan of QH I spent years changing implements and fighting arms and all the BS the QH is nice wish I had one 30 years ago.I didn’t do research on QH when I bought tractor I got QH and 6ft box blade I believe it was $300.00 worth it to me.I looked on Land Prides site they claim QH 15 Cat I is better for older attachments there QH20 Cat II takes bigger lift pin size but I couldn’t find specs on dimensions I’m assuming Q20 may be wider and cost little more.With your size tractor Cat I QH probably would be sufficient ??

 

[mikester]

My Speeco interferes with the PTO on some implements. I had to modify mine to make it work and it doesn't work on all implements.

 

[oosik]

I have six implements that attach to my Cat 2 - 3-point hitch. These six represent five different manufacturers. They are all Cat 2 compatible. Each would require slight modification, if even possible, for use of a quick hitch. It just is not worth it. I'll continue to do a direct hitch to the lower arms and the hydraulic top link.

Besides - four of my implements sit out in the orchard on pallets. All four are sitting at slightly different angles. This, quite likely, would complicate any use of a quick hitch.

If I had a barn/storage shed with a concrete floor - different story.

 

[oosik]

There are another points. The cost - $$$$ - of going from a Cat 1 implement to the same implement that is rated Cat 2. WoW!!! It's taken me the better part of eight years to make the change over. I do not want to screw with these new Cat 2 implements by adding a system that may not works so well and requires mods to each implement.

Consider this. I get some brand of quick hitch. It requires slight mods to my $4500 Wallenstein chipper or my $4000 Rhino rear blade. I go to sell either of these implements. Can I even bring their 3-point system back to OEM conditions. Do I hope to find a buyer that has the same brand/type of quick hitch.

I hope you can understand my concern ........

 

[juddspaintballs]

Cat 2 quick hitch hooks are about 5 1/2 inches farther apart than Cat 1.View attachment 690744


Bruce

Ok, I understand this. My tractor has a Cat II/I 3-point hitch. The lower balls are Cat II sized and the arms are adjustable in width to do Cat I or Cat II implements. They also extend a couple inches for easier hitching, but that's a different story. Do I go with a Cat I or Cat II style quick hitch is the question.

I have six implements that attach to my Cat 2 - 3-point hitch. These six represent five different manufacturers. They are all Cat 2 compatible. Each would require slight modification, if even possible, for use of a quick hitch. It just is not worth it. I'll continue to do a direct hitch to the lower arms and the hydraulic top link.

Besides - four of my implements sit out in the orchard on pallets. All four are sitting at slightly different angles. This, quite likely, would complicate any use of a quick hitch.

If I had a barn/storage shed with a concrete floor - different story.

I wonder how hard it would be to add hydraulics to the rear of my tractor. A hydraulic top link sounds like it would make life easy enough for hitching up.

 

[oosik]

Are you saying that your MX5100 has NO hydraulics out back. If that is the case - it would be fairly expensive. If you do have one set of hydraulic valves out back - it's VERY simple. Just change out the manual top link for a hydraulic top link and connect up the two hydraulic lines.

Yes - the hydraulic top link makes connection easier but that is not the main advantage. It allows for infinite top link changes, while on the go and without leaving your tractor seat. I will fine tune the way my implement works, to the very best situation, with the top link. It's no problem - just tap on the top link hydraulic lever. It means - I never get tired of the - stop/go/twist, twist and finally accepting - well, it's OK. It will be "tuned" to as close to perfect as possible.

 

[Cranblue]

Ok, I understand this. My tractor has a Cat II/I 3-point hitch. The lower balls are Cat II sized and the arms are adjustable in width to do Cat I or Cat II implements. They also extend a couple inches for easier hitching, but that's a different story. Do I go with a Cat I or Cat II style quick hitch is the question.





I wonder how hard it would be to add hydraulics to the rear of my tractor. A hydraulic top link sounds like it would make life easy enough for hitching up.

Just read on another post that on Cat II top hook link is not adjustable?? If this is true I would go Cat I and Land Pride claims Cat I is better for older implements!! I would definitely research as much as you can !!

 

[RBA50]

If you expect to be using Cat 1 implements, you should plan on a Cat 1 QH. However, you have to be sure that it will attach to the tractor 3 PH. I've heard of some folks having a problem with the lift arm balls not fitting into the QH.