looking at goosenecks and hay hauling....need help please.

[moloss]

I'm looking at gooseneck trailers......I'm wanting a 30' with load leveling ramps and center section and 7K axles......assuming 4x6 rolls of hay, I can 7 in a row right? I see alot of guys doubling there hay on the lower level (smaller rolls?)......I'm new to this cattle thing but I'm looking for advice on what size trailer is best.....thanks Chris.

 

[Z-Michigan]

We sold some of our 4x5 alfalfa rounds to a small cattle farmer this year. He said emphatically that he and his wife had determined they could never make money with cattle if they had to buy hay - plan was to do their own hay in a year or two.

Anyway, I stacked two trailers this year with 4x5 rounds and both of them took two rows on the bottom and one row on the top (2nd level). This setup was fairly stable and reasonable. With two rows of 4x5 rounds you are a bit more than 8' wide at the bottom and typically beyond the trailer sides, but it seemed to work. One of the buyers had a trailer with exposed wheels/tires - fortunately for us they were smart and made sure none of the bales were touching the wheels - that could have caused a fire (from friction of hay against rubber tire) if they hadn't been so smart.

Keep in mind the weight of hay. We estimate our alfalfa bales at 800lbs each - just a guess, but based on the experience and some actual bale-weighings of the farmer who baled them for us. If you did two bottom rows of 7 and one top row of 6 (in valleys), that is 20 bales = 16,000lbs of just hay. So you are overweight for two 7k axles or a 14k trailer, not to mention you will need a pretty stout towing vehicle. Just something to keep in mind.

 

[chh]

My neighbor hauls hay for some fields he has about 35 miles form his cattle operation on a 32' trailer with tandem duals and 10k axles behind a 1 ton dually. His bales are 5.5.x5 and he hauls 5 rows 2 wide on the bottom and 4 bales stacked on top. 14 bales a trip. He says he hasn't had any trouble hauling this way. The bales are grass hays 1200 to 1400 lbs max. That actually puts him over width but currently we can get away with that in Oklahoma if the truck has farm tags. Many guys are going to the 35' inline bale trailers that self dump if they deliver or move a lot of hay. Those trailers run about $3,800 locally and thats really all you can use one for. Another freind uses a dual 7k axle trailer and a 3/4 ton truck the same way you describe with 4'x5' or 4x6'bales and does not generally double stack and makes 10 bale loads. A railroad tie strapped across the back of the ramps as a stop makes him feel more secure when loading. Extra long ratchet straps down the length of the tops secures them for road transport pretty well.

 

[moloss]

I have a one ton truck for the hauling but I imagine with a 14K rated trailer that 10 bails would be about all it could haul.......I just want to buy the right trailer once and not wish I'd done something else later.......I'm looking to have between 20-40 feeder calves/momma cows depending on what time of year it is so I'm small scale comparded to most.

 

[chh]

Another question is what else to you need to haul? If that trailer will move any other tractors and equipment you need to move it would be a good fit. I was originally going to buy a 20' with a 5' dovetail and foldup ramps when I got my trailer. The dealer had a 25'+5' with 3 7000lb axles that he had been using a little for a couple of months. I bought it since it was the same price as the shorter trailer. It has turned out to be a really good fit for me since I'm currently using a 3/4 truck and load it with more of the weight on the trailer(when moving tractors ect.) and not squat the truck as bad. It also has brakes on all 3 axles which is another plus for me. On a 1 ton it wouldn't have been as big a deal.
I hear a lot of guys around here complain about manueverablity on trailer's much over the 30' to 32' range. Especially if they use the back roads a lot or have to go in or out of a lot of gates.
If it will haul everything else you should be able to move 10 bales at a time with no real problems.

 

[atgreene]

I used to own a Moritz 23' convertible gooseneck equipment trailer 14 k gvw with torsion suspension. I can say enough about it. I hauled everything under the sun and the torsion is the way to go. You may want to consider the 8k axles, with torsion you won't notice the difference anyway.

If you're runnig a farm, you may as well buy an equipment trailer to haul farm equipment aqnyway. Something with multiple uses and not job specific will impact your bottom line in a positive way.

 

[em14]

moloss - I have an Anderson 10 ton "Workhorse Series", Get your gooseneck trailer from Anderson Manufacturing., which I like. You can get one about any configuration you want. Very well made.
Leo

 

[hudr]

I pulled a 24' shop built trailer w/ 7K axles for years. Regularly put 11 5x6 rolls of Bermuda hay on it. Yes, it was overloaded. Finally last year an axle broke. I bought a 22' +5' dovetail w/ the pop up center section and folding ramps. I also went to dual tandem axles w/ 48" spread. The trailer is rated at 22500#.
Now I have a trailer that will handle the weight (hay and most equipment I have). Plus it pulls better on the road and has better brakes.
The dealer tried to talk me into a longer trailer. But if you have a longer trailer you are always tempted to put more on it. Plus I can get this trailer through all but one gate on our place.
I would definitely suggest the dual tandem axles (oil filled bearings as well). And don't get crazy w/ the length.

 

[moloss]

new question to add......should I get the leveling dove tail or just the straight deck with ramps......there is a $917!!!!! difference.....with the straight deck you get 8 foot ramps with the leveling dove tail (5 feet of dove and 5 foot fold over ramps it's 10 feet and some have a total of 9 feet) .....I'm assuming it's the difference between 40 degree angle and 30 degree angle.........what do y'all think......I'm going to use the trailer for the tractor stuff but also for carrying the jeep, rhino and atv's......that's why I'm leaning towards the flat deck.....that said I do want to be able to get the tractor on and off with out scarring myself to death.....thanks again

this is what I want
PJ 30'x102" straight deck
15,680 lb. G.V.W.R.
7,000 lb. x 2 G.A.W.R.
2 5/16" Gooseneck Ball Coupler (25,000 lb.)
Safety Chains
2 - Drop Leg Jacks (10,000 lb.)
2 - EZ-LUBE Brake Axles (7,000 lb.)
6 Leaf Slipper Spring Suspension
4 - 16" White Spoke Wheels
4 - 235/80R16 Radial Tires (3,500 lb.)
Rubrail & Stake Pockets
Electric Breakaway Kit w/ Charger
DOT Reflective Tape
Side Steps on Both Sides
Front Toolbox (GN Only)
8' Ramps w/ Holders
12" x 14 lb. I-Beam Main Frame, Riser & Neck
3" Channel Crossmembers 16" on Center
2" Treated Pine Lumber Deck
102" Wide Deck
DOT Approved Flushmount Lights
Amber Side Turn Flashers
Sealed Wire Harness
Sand Blasted, Acid Washed, Powder

 

[hudr]

I say definitely get the dove tail with the folding ramps. It makes it so much easier to load stuff. Your ramps don't have to be as long and you don't have as steep a "break over" when loading stuff on the trailer. Also you don't have to man-handle the ramps as much. The dove tail w/ folding ramps and pop-up center section give you a flat deck all the way back.
I still say the dual tandem axles are worth the money. Remember, this trailer should wear out several trucks so get one you won't mind pulling for a LONG time.
Oh, and see if you can get an LED upgrade on the lights. They won't melt ice/snow like incandescents but you won't be replacing burnt out bulbs either.

My .02.... good luck.