Longer bar for Stihl M261 - relative novice.

[Dadnatron]

I’ve used chainsaws intermittently throughout my life, just around farm and building fence. I feel comfortable using and sharpening them. But always using them ‘as they came’. Most I ever had to do was change chains and plugs.

I recently purchased an M261 and it works great… but I’m finding I need a longer bar. Currently has a 16” bar and Stihl .325 chain. I see a lot of Oregon bars on Stihl saw and thought I’d look at them. This is where I recognized the tip of the extent of what I don’t know about saws.

My needs are at least 20”, but honestly, I’m looking to get something for bigger trees. Before I just ‘get a 20”, I thought I’d ask opinions.

The 16” is great in that it is light, quick, and easy to use on 70% of everything I do. But I’d like opinions on what you find as your most ‘useful’ bar/chain combos, and why? I need something ‘long enough’ to be different that the 16” as I have several trees to fell that are larger than 16”. I think a 20” would do most, but I’m open to longer, if my saw will handle it and there is utility. I don’t want what I don’t need, but I’m also uncertain about that real need.

Do you have recommendations on a longer bar/chain combo for M261for some mixed, 30-50yo, hardwood, overgrown, Kentucky fence line tree felling?
Would you go longer than 20”?

 

[WinterDeere]

You're probably cutting a lot of hardwoods in KY. I run a 20" bar on my 63cc Stihl 036 PRO, predecessor to the modern MS-362, and it's honestly too much bar for the thing when running full comp full chisel chain. It's fine cutting smaller hardwoods, but as soon as you bury that 20" bar to the nose into a 30" diameter oak log, it struggles a bit.

In my case, reducing exposed bar length to 19" by installing larger felling dogs on the saw was a reasonable solution to keep running the 20" bars and chains I already owned. But if buying new today, I'd put an 18" bar on that saw.

The MS-261 is of course even smaller, which is why they pair it with .325 chain on a 16" bar. If you really need a larger bar for some occasions, I'd consider keeping it for only those occasional uses, and running skip chain on it to reduce the load on the saw. Those living in the west and only cutting soft connifers will disagree, but they're not cutting KY hardwoods.

Personally, if you need a bigger bar with any real frequency, I'd recommend buying a bigger saw. Figure on 70cc for 20" of full comp chain in hardwoods at modern chain speeds, without bogging.

You mentioned even longer, and the sky is the limit. The 500i is a great saw, if you have unlimited budget, and can easily run 28" of bar all day long. Likewise with the MS-660, if you don't mind the weight, and want something a little less costly than the 500i.

Lots of guys also run 24" bars on the various MS-4xx saws, which are in the 75'ish cc displacement range. I suspect that combination works great in softwoods, but might be underwhelming when buried beyond the nose in oak or locust.

Running skip chain is one way to make a longer bar work on a smaller saw, reducing the load on the saw by placing fewer cutters in the kerf, but it does slow the cutting speed a bit. It also makes the saw grabby and less suitable for cutting smaller diameter branches. I run skip chain on my 36" bar, on occasions I need a bar that long, on my 85cc saw.

 

[ericm979]

Stihl recommends a 18" bar for the 261. I feel their recommendations tend towards the longest practical as people often shop by numbers. I think 16" is about right for a 261. BUT that is assuming that you are at least sometimes burying the bar all the way. Some people like a super long bar so they don't have to bend over as far, and they only cut stuff far smaller than the bar's capacity. I find it tiresome to cut larger stuff while pulling the saw back rather than letting the dogs contact the wood. I also don't like how long bars mess up the balance of the saw, requiring more effort to handle it. But my back is in good shape and I don't mind bending over as needed. YMMV.

Modern saws pump less chain oil. A significantly longer bar than recommended may not get enough oil with the stock oil pump.

You can cut up to about 26" diameter wood with a 16" bar if you cut from both sides. It's kind of a pain to plan the cuts and make them meet for neat rounds but it can be done. For larger wood I prefer to have a longer bar and a bigger saw to run it.

 

[Windblown]

You've gotten some good advice. The MS261 is a nice lightweight saw but running more than an 18" bar is going to slow things down considerably and make it more bog prone. 16" is probably it's sweet spot in hardwoods. Also as mentioned Stihl gets a bit skimpy on max oil flow on their newer saws when running longer than recommended bars and this can cause more heat and wear.

I usually run an 18" bar on my Stihl 036pro which has a touch more HP than the 261 as it seems to be that saws happy place. It can run a 20" ok but not as sweetly, it can even swing a 24" in a pinch but it's simply too much bar for it really. I opt to run bigger saws for felling when I need a longer bar.

From an economy standpoint I'd say go ahead and get a .325 20" bar and just go a bit slower. I'm fairly sure 20" is the longest you can get without converting to 3/8" chain anyway. If you think you really want a 24" bar get a 2nd saw that can swing it. If you're handy with saw tuning and on a budget pick up a big CC clone saw. They can be decent runners when tuned but it will likely arrive completely out of tune and need to be gone over before being used, or just buy a bigger used saw that you can test before buying.

I'd only buy a big new saw like a 500i if you have plenty of money to burn and like spending it as much as you like felling big trees.

 

[ning]

Stihl recommends a 18" bar for the 261. I feel their recommendations tend towards the longest practical as people often shop by numbers. I think 16" is about right for a 261. BUT that is assuming that you are at least sometimes burying the bar all the way. Some people like a super long bar so they don't have to bend over as far, and they only cut stuff far smaller than the bar's capacity. I find it tiresome to cut larger stuff while pulling the saw back rather than letting the dogs contact the wood. I also don't like how long bars mess up the balance of the saw, requiring more effort to handle it. But my back is in good shape and I don't mind bending over as needed. YMMV.

Modern saws pump less chain oil. A significantly longer bar than recommended may not get enough oil with the stock oil pump.

You can cut up to about 26" diameter wood with a 16" bar if you cut from both sides. It's kind of a pain to plan the cuts and make them meet for neat rounds but it can be done. For larger wood I prefer to have a longer bar and a bigger saw to run it.

IMO it's all about how often you're in the bigger wood; if it's a very occasional big piece, just deal with going from both sides, or get a long bar and a skip-tooth chain and go slower, swapping the long bar just for that tree. If you're in bigger wood a lot, get a bigger saw.

 

[stevem5215]

More CC's gets a bigger bar. Basically add money to the pile to get it.

 

[4570Man]

I have a 28” or 30” for my 500i but I hate it. I only use it when absolutely necessary and the saw is much more practical with a 20” bar. My 261 has a short bar like 14 or 16”. I bought the shortest one the dealer had for it. If I’m cutting anything that’s above what the short bar can do I grab the bigger saw. But I wouldn’t go above 20” on the 261.

 

[Hay Dude]

I’ve used chainsaws intermittently throughout my life, just around farm and building fence. I feel comfortable using and sharpening them. But always using them ‘as they came’. Most I ever had to do was change chains and plugs.

I recently purchased an M261 and it works great… but I’m finding I need a longer bar. Currently has a 16” bar and Stihl .325 chain. I see a lot of Oregon bars on Stihl saw and thought I’d look at them. This is where I recognized the tip of the extent of what I don’t know about saws.

My needs are at least 20”, but honestly, I’m looking to get something for bigger trees. Before I just ‘get a 20”, I thought I’d ask opinions.

The 16” is great in that it is light, quick, and easy to use on 70% of everything I do. But I’d like opinions on what you find as your most ‘useful’ bar/chain combos, and why? I need something ‘long enough’ to be different that the 16” as I have several trees to fell that are larger than 16”. I think a 20” would do most, but I’m open to longer, if my saw will handle it and there is utility. I don’t want what I don’t need, but I’m also uncertain about that real need.

Do you have recommendations on a longer bar/chain combo for M261for some mixed, 30-50yo, hardwood, overgrown, Kentucky fence line tree felling?
Would you go longer than 20”?

I run a 20” bar with aggressive chain on my 261C for almost 3 years and I like it. I don’t think its the best choice for like constant hardwood cutting, but for limbing, and general usage, it’s my go-to saw. I think it’s just right.
No, I would not go longer than 20. 18 is probably ideal, but 20 works fine. My guess is you’d like it just fine.
New saws are outrageously expensive. A bar and a chain is cheap.

 

[Hay Dude]

I have a 28” or 30” for my 500i but I hate it. I only use it when absolutely necessary and the saw is much more practical with a 20” bar. My 261 has a short bar like 14 or 16”. I bought the shortest one the dealer had for it. If I’m cutting anything that’s above what the short bar can do I grab the bigger saw. But I wouldn’t go above 20” on the 261.

I run a 25” lightweight bar on my 500i. I think it’s just right.

 

[sandman2234]

I have a 261 with a 16" bar, and can't imagine running much more than an 18" on it. I have a 310 and 311 and run 25" bars on them with no issues.
David from jax