Long time lurker,

   / Long time lurker, #1  

tedV865

New member
Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Messages
9
Location
Knoxville, TN
Tractor
Crapsman/Husqvarna JD_X485
First time posting. I've found most all my questions can get answered using the search function so never needed to post. I need to up my equipment game around the houses this spring so figured I would see if ability to post could help. 30 degree hills of East TN makes picking usable equipment at an acceptable price more of a challenge. Yes, 30 degree not percent. I measured. I'm thinking Creeping Phlox or some other ground cover needs to be on anything more than 20-25 deg and call it done. :thumbsup:

Anyway, Howdy y'all
 
   / Long time lurker, #2  
:welcome: to TBN...enjoy.
 
   / Long time lurker, #3  
:welcome:

We're happy to have you as a member :)
 
   / Long time lurker, #5  
I need to up my equipment game this spring. Thought I would see if posting could help.
30 degree hills of East TN makes picking usable equipment at an acceptable price more of a challenge. Yes, 30 degree not percent. I measured.

The best way to shop for tractors is to determine your tasks first, then determine how much bare tractor weight you need to SAFELY accomplish as many of your tasks as possible. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites.

Hillside work demands more tractor weight than flat land work. Heavier tractors have greater wheel spread making them more stable. Heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires better able to bridge holes and ruts without the tractor rolling over. Larger wheels and tires provide a much smoother ride over rough ground. Heavier tractors have greater inertia to resist rollovers when moving heavy loads in the FEL, the most hazardous of routine tractor tasks, especially hazardous on slopes.

For most tasks greater tractor chassis weight is far more important than tractor horsepower. This tractor fundamental is difficult for people new to tractors to comprehend.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range.

Tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are offered in one configuration. Most, such as the high volume kubota standard L series, are prosaically equipped to hit competitive price points. Others, such as the Yanmar YT235 and Kubota B2650/B3350 series, are splendidly adorned.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are used in residential applications on one to five fairly flat acres. These "residential tractors" fit in a typical garage.

Tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are generally offered in a utilitarian configuration and a deluxe configuration, on a common chassis. Deluxe kit enhances productivity and operating comfort ~~~ but you have to pay. Many are too tall to fit in a typical garage, even with ROPS folded down.

I like to spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

It takes a 50% increase in tractor weight before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider, implements for a heavier tractor is a pain and often a big hit in depreciation. ((Ask me how I know.)) Many who buy too light tractors buy too light implements.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, is a priority for me; less so for others, well experienced with tractors, who do their own maintenance. For most new to tractors a quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is essential. My kubota dealer is six miles away.

Horsepower is a primary consideration only operating PTO powered implements.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​


For REALLY steep slopes tractors with four equal size wheels are more stable than tractors with small front wheels and large back wheels. US Brands: Power Trac, Ventrac, Steiner. While these tractors are more stable, you lose pulling power as a result. These are low volume brands. They may seem somewhat expensive on first look.

To make traditional tractors, those with small front wheels and large rear wheels, more stable on hillsides here are five recommendations:

1) Have dealer spread the variable rear wheels as wide as possible. R1/ag tires can be spread wider than R4/industrial tires. (With this option you lose the ability to pull a turning plow.)

2) Consider the addition of $300 spacers to the rear wheels. (With this option you lose the ability to pull a turning plow.)

3) Fill the rear tires 3/4 with liquid. This lowers the center-of-gravity of the tractor.

4) Opt for 4-WD. Tractors only have brakes on the rear wheels. Four-wheel drive gives you a semblance of four wheel braking on slopes. With 2-WD you can have virtually NO BRAKING ABILITY in some downhill situations.

5) Consider bulbous, low pressure, tractor radial tires.


Tell us the tasks you wish to accomplish and indicate which tasks will be on flat ground and which on hillsides. Respondents will give you their opinions are how much bare tractor weight is appropriate. How many acres will you work?

MORE: tractors on hillsides - Google Search
 
Last edited:
   / Long time lurker,
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for the welcome!

Jeff, I think you just gave a single post Cliffsnotes of what I've learned by lurking. I need the ability to mow ranging from finish to rough. Complicating the mowing is how quickly the terrain changes profile. Smaller widths give better cut but take longer to get done. Will need to move dirt, riprap, smooth driveway gravel. Make it easier to deal with fallen trees and limbs. Most of the 2 properties I have to deal with range from flat to 30 deg. I regularly have mowed the 20-25 deg hills but the weather has to be correct leading up to mowing day. Total area is 3 acres so no need to go huge.

I need a small Swiss army tractor. Its annoying the SCUTs are made to be narrow to fit in the back of a pickup or through a gate, then they slap a 60" mower on a 47" wide lil tractor. Sure would be nice to be 10-12" wider for stability. PowerTrac, Ventrac and Steiner are on my short list if cost is no issue. PT headquarters is 3.5 hours away next to the same river that runs by my day job. A PT1430 or modified PT425 would suit me well at a better price than Ventrac or Steiner but the last 2 will cut grass better. Hauling between properties I can't get too heavy before I would need to up my tow vehicles and trailer. Everything is a compromise.

Money is a concern. I'm still weighing options from buying used to just getting a decent ground engaging garden tractor and renting a larger rig for the bigger jobs as they come. Although, it sure is nice to have what you need ready to go when you need it.
 

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