log splitter not splitting well this year.

[escavader]

Hi guys.
My 20pluus year old homemade splitter is on the fritz.It has a old 5 hp briggs,11 gpm 2 stage pump,auto detent handle pretty basic.It always worked great but now its not.It doesnt seem to want to shift down to the more powerful pump mode and refuses to split logs it should and always has easy.Thinking it was the pump,i replaced it with a brand new one.It still does it .Iscrewed with the relief on the detent handle ,no help,tryed tweeking the relief on the pump,no help.Iam full of clean oil,with a new filter.Nothing on the machine seems to be binding,the pump -engine shaft seems to line up proper,im kind of lost now.Could my engine be getting weak.It starts easy and runs great,but should i check the compression?Could the cylindar have something wrong inside.Is there something that can wear out on these joysticks?The pumps just dont want to shift.ANY ADVICE FOR ME GUYS?
ALAN

 

[crazyal]

Is the engine bogging down? Just before mine "shifts" the motor will start to strain. If it's not doing that then I would look at the spool valve. When in the neutral position the fluid will freely flow back to the tank. If there's a problem inside it maybe you're just not building up any pressure.

 

[J_J]

Install a hyd pressure gage and take some readings.

The pump will shift modes based on the pressure.

Does the engine seem to be running at full throttle?

The relief on your valve might need cleaning.

The pressure readings should clue you in on the problem.

 

[triptester]

Check the cylinder for leaking piston seals. To check the seals extend the ram all the way. Shut off engine and with control valve in the neutral position remove the hose going from the ram end of the cylinder to the valve, at the valve. Place the end of the hose in a bucket and place a rag over the valve openning.
Start the engine. In the neutral position very slight or no fluid should come out of the openning of the valve. Next move the valve to the extend position, little to no fluid should come out of the hose. If fluid comes out of the hose this is a sign that the cylinder piston seals are bad.

 

[Scooby074]

I agree with JJ.

If something is bypassing (weak relief , worn seals) then the pump wont shift because it wont build enough pressure. A gauge and getting some readings is the place to begin

 

[escavader]

i WILL TRY TO BUILD OR BY A TEST GAUGE.Any thoughts on that and what need,and is there a kit with multiple fittings available

 

[escavader]

For giggles i did a compression test on the engine 90lbs im assuming thats good on a 5hp briggs?

 

[Scooby074]

i WILL TRY TO BUILD OR BY A TEST GAUGE.Any thoughts on that and what need,and is there a kit with multiple fittings available

Dont need much, just a STEEL "T" of your line size, an adapter to go from T size to gauge size, and the 3000 psi gauge itself. Depending on your setup you may need at least 1 nipple as well.

Thats the basics, you can go up from there with hoses between the T and the gauge etc.

 

[Soundguy]

ditto what the others said.

before I would have thrown parts at it i would have done some investigation.

first a pressure check.. then pending that.. check out the spool...

 

[escavader]

I got a gauge ,neighbor said it wasnt big enough,only went to 2000 psi so im still stuck.Took the spool valve apart saw nothing wrong.Took my cylandar off got the end cap with wiper off,got the clip out ,could not get the end out -almost probably stuck out a good inch,cant see no burr.can i push the rod and end way in and heat up the tube with a torch to aid in removal?Iput a case hardend bolt in the rod end and beat the snot out of it ,but just cant quite get it help
ALAN

 

[Scooby074]

A 2000 psi gauge would likely give you an idea what were looking at. The pump should shift at (off the top of my head) 750? psi. You can also watch the pressure build up to 2000. Chances are your splitter will relief at 2000 (give or take).

I wouldnt disassemble anything just yet. And i especially wouldnt get a torch near the cylinder.

As to why the rod cant be removed pictures (or a model number) would help when/if the time comes that disassembly is required.

 

[J_J]

Since you beat it up pretty bad, I would just get a new valve for about $60.

 

[Soundguy]

i wouldn't be working with a gauge under 3000 psi.. many agg applications relieve at 2500

soundguy

 

[oldmech]

Hi! I had this trouble. Was Air in valve. Oil levell was too low. take some air. Check oil input Levell ,filter for good oil input. Bleed at cylinder for remove air. Mine run very good now. Good luck! Oldmech

 

[escavader]

jj
it was the bolt i put in the cylindar end to disassemble that i beat.not a mark on anything else.The mill write at work tryed helping and we used the 3 bolt holes and bolted up a puller.using an impact gun we pulled until the bolts bent.i just cant fathom getting this apart without alot of heat.im gonna research and see if theres a local shop with a better way.
been thinking about a longer cylindar,and 4 inch instead of 3.would the larger volumn of the cylindar slow mt y splitter down.250 bucks though jeez alot of moolahh

 

[escavader]

my tank was and still is ful lto the fill spout.good thought though
ALAN

 

[J_J]

Yes, a larger cyl will slow the cycle time.

 

[escavader]

Finally got a feller in the biz to help.My cylindar is junk.the end is all swollen from bottoming out all these years[it never quite would reach the wedge.This is why i cant get it apart.He said the rod should have a little resistance mine when you tip it upjust falls by itself.He said way to much to rebuild ,compare to new.He recommends longer so i dont run all the way to end of stroke.Ijust ordered a 4 by 24 with 2 inch rod much bigger then originaland 6 to 8 inches longer.Got some magor fab work to do to make fit,its ok though unit was tippy in the woods,going to lower motor and tank way down.199 for cylindar and 40 shipping still 20 plus cheaper than tsc and theirs had smaller rod in it,mY FAULT I GUESS FOR USING TOO SHORT OF CYLINDAR FOR JOB I WAS DOING
ALAN