Log Splitter for a 2210?

cadblaster · Dec 10, 2003

This came up in the 2220 wish list post. But I thought it deserved a separate thread.

The 2210 doesn't have the addtional hydraulics out back to support using hydraulic 3 pt. attachments such as a log splitter.

So I've begun thinking about building one. First thought was to put a hydraulic pump on the PTO, but then I thought of a simpler setup. Just connect to the splitter hydraulics to the loader lift ports and use the loader valve to operate it. You'd also probably want to put in a bypass hose on two of the ports that would not be needed. May not be necessary, but wouldn't hurt. No resevoir tank needed for this setup, just don't know if the pump would supply the proper volume to operate an adequately sized cylinder for splitting. i.e. it could be too slow if it's a big diameter cylinder, and might be too weak for a small cylinder. Without looking I think you can safely add the area of the two lift cylinders to get a general idea of the size of the splitter cylinder.
Building a splitter would be a pretty easy task in itself.

Whatta' you guyes think?

fgross335_2210 · Dec 10, 2003

I had thought of doing something like this, but want to keep using the FEL to haul the wood I'm splitting. I hadn't considered use of a hyd splitter valve, perhaps this would allow switching between splitter and FEL operation w/o hose changes.

I have to believe the hyd system makes adequate pressure, but may not have the same flow as a larger system. I know people running splitters on JD B's and the like, and I have to believe that a new CUT can hold it's own against state-of-the-art hydralics from the 1940's.

Northern tool sells a three-point splitter for something like $500 - just need to add the hoses and splitter valves. What do you suppose it would cost to build one?

cadblaster · Dec 11, 2003

( ...I hadn't considered use of a hyd splitter valve, perhaps this would allow switching between splitter and FEL operation w/o hose changes. )

Not sure how this setup would work. If you tie the supply/return lines in to the FEL ports, you'd have to use the DSV and the splitter control valve to operate the splitter ram.

To use the FEL and the splitter without swapping lines, TEE in to the ports, and add some valves.

( ...Northern tool sells a three-point splitter for something like $500 - just need to add the hoses and splitter valves. What do you suppose it would cost to build one? )

Probably 1/3 to 1/2. Though Depending on your available resources and ability to scrounge, that number might be as low as 1/4. The biggest expense is the ram, which comes in around $100 - $150 (for estimation purposes). Hoses and fittings might be another $50. The steel would be best obtained through a scrapyard, or from local welding or steel shops' scrap bins.

Some basic calulations:
16 Ton equates to a 4" cylinder with 2500 psi pressure.
20 Ton equates to a 4" cylinder with 3000 psi pressure.
25 Ton equates to a 5" cylinder with 2500 psi pressure.
35 Ton equates to a 5" cylinder with 3000 psi pressure.

Hambone · Dec 11, 2003

I think in the long run it would be cheaper to buy a gas powered job and pull behind. You would be putting a lot of hours on your tractor. It would be easier replacing the gas engine versus your tractor engine.

My .02 worth

bigpete · Dec 11, 2003

I would have to agree with Hambone about the hours. Not only will they pile up, but they will pile up at a static RPM without much varyation in the load. In the long run, these small diesel engines like a little variety in their load levels and RPMs. AS to the total number of hours being piled up, keep in mind that dealers depreciate trade in tractors anywhere from $10 to $25 per hour depending on the age of the tractor and of course on demand for the particular model in the used equipment market.

A small gas engine designed and dedicated to running at high RPMs for long hours is your most economical bet. I guess I developed this philosophy when considering a generator for my 3PH versus a stand-alone unit.

cadblaster · Dec 11, 2003

I really think that the amout of hours that would pile up on the machine is relative to firewood useage, and this has to be weighed against the cost of a machine and much it's going to be used.

I don't think that you'd necessarily have to run at full or even a constant throttle. With the DSV control right next to the throttle, you could bump it up when needed, this should allow enough RPM variation to keep the engine happy. I agree that a 3 ph generator is not a good idea, you'd be running it for hours on end if you had a major power outage. Splitting wood in retrospect would only be a couple of hours here and there. Also, If I were to worry about depreciation, then maybe I should also consider going back to using a wheel barrow to move mulch. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

If I were heating my house with wood, I think I would want a dedicated splitter. Trust me, I've been a tool/equipment junkie for a long time, but even I have to find some justification to get another "thing" even if it's only to convince my wife I need it. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Heck, I wouldn't even be exploring this idea at all if I wasn't the "type". I can easily go and buy a bunch of wood. Though around here it can be pricey and you don't always know what you're getting.

I have a pile of wood that needs split. Right now I only use it for the fireplace. I will eventually have a wood stove in the basement and I may use it over long cold weekends, but not as a primary heat source.

That said, I still believe that a 3 pt splitter is a good option for some people. Especially if you like playing with your toys. It's low cost, would get limited use, takes up less space, and means I don't have another engine to maintain.

But what I'm really after is what people think about the feasibility of doing this with a 2210 as I have described. Just think of it as a mental exersize, regardless of whether or not it is a good idea.

mhalla · Dec 11, 2003

How much "down" force is exerted by the FEL on a 2210?

All this discussion about splitting logs made me wonder if some sort of splitting wedge thing could be built to attach to the front end loader arms in place of a bucket. That way the existing hydraulics could be used.

Mike

bigpete · Dec 11, 2003

Cadblaster...points well taken. to answer your question, yes I believe it is a worthwhile exercise. I don't know enough about hydraulics to comment on the technical questions you will have, but I'm sure the 2210's flow rate and pressure will determine the success of the project. There seems to be no reason to NOT use the DSCV intended for the front attachments. It's just a matter of hose length, fittings, and safety.

Docsknotinn · Dec 11, 2003

I looked at this before I bought a log splitter from Northern Tool. It just didnt really make much sense to me when you can buy a 20 ton freestanding splitter with a Honda engine for 1k. Now I carry it to the splitter with the FEL, unload from the FEL to the splitter without even bending over and toss the split stuff right in the trailer. Its all pretty fast.

B2400 · Dec 13, 2003

I built a log splitter a couple of years ago and the experience taught me it's as cheap to buy as it is to build, personal pride being the main benefit!! I'm not sure of the 2210's pump output, but I would guess it to be in the 5-6gph range.Pressure from the pump is approx. 2000psi. Given this, a 5" cylinder has approx 19.5 sq. in of piston area resulting in 19-20 tons of cyl pressure available to split with. This amount of force will be more than adequate unless you split a lot of hedge! The problem you'll run into will be cycle time due to your gph flow. The splitter I built uses a 16gph 2 stage pump and even on the low pressure/high volume side of pump it is no speed demon pushing a 5 x 24 cylinder. Again, if you can tolerate the slow cycle times, the 2210's system will power the splitter. A smaller cylinder will compensate for this but at the expense of actual working force. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Mike