Loader Loader valve repair or replace?

[eray1066]

On our Challenger 285B (Equivalent to Massey Ferguson 1547) the loader valve sticks in the down position. It is apparent that the spring in the valve is broken. Does anyone know if I can replace a spring while rebuilding the loader control valve assembly or should I prepare myself mentally to have to buy this undoubtedly expensive part?

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

Don't know on this exact unit but most valves are rebuildable usually on bottom of particular section there is a cupped cover held on by 2 or more bolts. remove this and gain access to bottom of spool if it has a spring you should be able to see it if its broken or collapsed then replace it. this can usually be done without having to remove spool. see if spool moves free up and down to make sure you don't have an issue with spool. If it leaks most have orings in housing a lot cheaper than replacing . Good luck

 

[rdbigfarmboy]

I generally go with get a new valve set or joystick.

 

[Dave M7040]

Is it possible your valve has a float position and this is why it is staying in the down position?
When in the position you describe is the loader trying to lift the front wheels or just sitting there?
Dave M7040

 

[kennyd]

Can you post pictures? sometimes the detent balls for the float position can get dry, corroded, and/or rusty causing the spool to stick, if that's the case its a 15 minutes repair. It's jsut a matter of taking off the cup as Rocky mentioned above. It could also be sticking linkages or binding cables it's cable operated.

 

[kennyd]

I generally go with get a new valve set or joystick.

The "problem" has not even need diagnosed yet and you suggest just replacing the valve? What if it's a linkage/cable problem?

 

[arrow]

The "problem" has not even need diagnosed yet and you suggest just replacing the valve? What if it's a linkage/cable problem?

I have to agree with this. My loader valve spring broke but the spool on mine allowed the fel to go "up". The cost for a new scv was over $700 (John Deere). When i took the valve apart, the set up for the spool was called "non replaceable" as it was one piece held in by e-clips. If one listened to the the parts description, this forced one to go with a new scv. I took the set up to a John Deere dealer and he pored through his schematics and found a similar spring on a John Deere 318 garden tractor. He ordered it and it was an exact duplicate of the spring that had broken on mine (it's a little bitty thing). Total cost was $3.18. Fortunately I used kennyd's link to get to "parts" to get a break down of the area. (Thanks Ken) The op should be able to get a similar schematic for his and acquire the spring if indeed it is that..

 

[eray1066]

I ended up adding a spring to the out side of the valve linkage to replicate the force of the internal spring. It has worked flawlessly for 9 years.

 

[arrow]

I ended up adding a spring to the out side of the valve linkage to replicate the force of the internal spring. It has worked flawlessly for 9 years.

I hate when 9 years seems like 2 Saturdays ago.
The trick is to get “time” to match my brain.
Nothing has worked thus far.