loader cylinders rebuild cost

[rsedad]

I've had bucket and lift cylinder leakage on my B1640 loader for a long time, but didn't really matter since only mowing and plowing lately. Also needs 4-5 new hoses. Would like to fix it up and get back to some modest loader projects, how much should I expect a shop to charge for rebuilding the cylinders? (don't have the time/skills to take it on myself)

The tractor is otherwise in reasonable shape, has its annoyances but nothing major, engine + trans are fine. A repair bill in the hundreds would be great, but thousands would most likely force a trade-in. Hopefully it's just a set of seals and the hoses, but help me understand: what's realistic to expect here after it gets taken apart and probably some additional issues come up??

Thanks, I really appreciate the info from these boards.

 

[woodchuckie]

I had one rebuilt plus the end cap had to be replaced which was the biggest part of the cost. The total was 241.00

 

[chrisjbell]

I'm sure that the $241 was taking just the cylinder in - not for loader disassembly. But that sounds about right. The hoses are pretty expensive, too. The connectors alone are in the $10 / $15 range - each.

I've had hydraulics fail on me while using them and it isn't much fun. Aside from getting fluid all over the place, it can be pretty dangerous. If you are supporting a load, it can drop (sometimes real fast). If digging, it can change your center of gravity in unexpected ways. And a pinhole leak can fire out hydro fluid under enough pressure to cut through skin, which is a Very Bad Thing.

It is worth getting the leaky / old stuff fixed. Not cheap, though... :-(

 

[KJM]

Leaking cylinders are very easy to fix yourself. I've done 7 so far...

You just undo the cap seal while the thing is on the tractor still (use a big pipe wrench). Then remove the whole thing; finish unscrewing the cap seal. Pull the rod out and there you have it!

The big nut on the end of the rod that holds the piston on the rod might be tight, but unless it is like 6 of the 7 I did (someone welded the nuts on!) - it just needs grunt.

The seals are: (1) external seal on the top of the end-cap; (1) seal inside the end-cap (this is a pressure seal) and (1) seal on the piston. There will also be an O-ring sealing the cap to the cylinder.

I took the old seals, cap, cylinder & piston to the local hydraulics people. The prices vary with the commonality of the seal sets, but converting to $US, I paid between $30 and $42 per set. All of my pistons had enlarged seal lands, so they needed some (very expensive, for what they are) Teflon spacers. The hydraulic people were infinitely helpful...

If you don't have to grind off the nuts on the end of the rods, the go-to-whoa time for doing a ram is about 20mins and is a surprisingly trivial job to do. And hugely satisfying - the droopy loader is now a perfect loader

Hope this helps! Might save you $$'s!
/Kevin

 

[rsedad]

KJM: I totally agree that it would much more satisfying and less expensive to do this one myself, but it's just not in the cards right now if I want to get any seat time with the loader before the next mowing season kicks in....it's too easy for me to turn a 20 min job into 2-3 hours, after taking a few months to get to it in the first place

chrisjbell: those ragety old hoses have been a sorry sight the last 5 years of mowing, I keep wondering when they'll give out. Don't want to repeat your experience....Sounds like the bill could easily run to $600-700, between the hoses, cylinder rebuild + labor.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[john_bud]

KJM: I totally agree that it would much more satisfying and less expensive to do this one myself, but it's just not in the cards right now if I want to get any seat time with the loader before the next mowing season kicks in....it's too easy for me to turn a 20 min job into 2-3 hours, after taking a few months to get to it in the first place

chrisjbell: those ragety old hoses have been a sorry sight the last 5 years of mowing, I keep wondering when they'll give out. Don't want to repeat your experience....Sounds like the bill could easily run to $600-700, between the hoses, cylinder rebuild + labor.

Thanks for the feedback.

Actually, the bill could run up higher than that too. Depends on the shop. Figure on 75-100$ per hour, 1/2 hour to take apart, 1/2 hour to put together, 1/2 hour to inspect and order parts, ~$100 for parts, and 1/4 hour to test. If there is wear on the inside, they may have to hone the cylinder - rare but possible.

For comparison, I had one cylinder done professionally at a cost of almost $300. I told them to stop work, if it looked like it would go over $200 as I could get a NEW replacement for $200- they didn't. Parts alone were almost 150. I did the other cylinder myself and parts cost was under $50 and it took me only a couple hours total. I did need air tools and a special wrench ($55). Since then, I have done 6 other cylinders and my total outlay is under the cost of the one done professionally.

H&D Distributors, Inc. Your Complete Source for Seals

get their catalog. They have good prices, fast shipping and the catalog has pictures of each part. (Helpful)

jb

 

[KJM]

Actually, the bill could run up higher than that too. Depends on the shop. Figure on 75-100$ per hour, 1/2 hour to take apart, 1/2 hour to put together, 1/2 hour to inspect and order parts, ~$100 for parts, and 1/4 hour to test. If there is wear on the inside, they may have to hone the cylinder - rare but possible.

Yup - if you send it out, they will do a proper job - they have to stand by their work. My loader cylinders were both scored (lightly). If I were doing it professionally, I'd probably tell the customer it needed a hone. I did it myself, and thought "nah - it'll just wear the seals a bit faster... so be it".

I was too cheap to buy a proper C-spanner (which is what they're called here in OZ) for the end-caps. The little tooth marks in the steel from the pipe wrench just add character to this 20 year old tractor .

I'd still recommend this repair to anyone. It is surprisingly simple and reversable. If you get the ram apart and discover some plonker has welded the nut on the end of the rod, you can always sigh and put it back together. All you lose is hydraulic oil!

/Kevin

 

[dfkrug]

I agree this is a very satisfying DIY project, assuming your rod is not
scored and your cylinder is not dented. Even a John Deere rebuild kit
for a loader cyl is only about $40. The hardest part is that rod nut
on the end of the piston. I put a rod thru the end, park the tractor on it,
and use a 3-ft breaker bar.

Somtimes I open a cyl and find the leak requires NO new parts. A paint
chip lodged in rod seal. A scuffed O-ring in the end cap.

 

[john_bud]

If you want to see what is inside a cylinder, here is a link to my photo's.

jb

hydraulic cylinders - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[KJM]

If you want to see what is inside a cylinder, here is a link to my photo's.

jb

hydraulic cylinders - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Hmmm - I wish I'd seen that before I did the first one! For me it was "well, it can't be rocket science"....

I still have 1 cylinder to fix - the internal seal on the piston is clearly bypassing fluid. This time I'll take some snaps and put them up when I do it. I really need to get a round tuit...

/Kevin