miramadar
Gold Member
It took me a while to get this done, but I finally did it. I bought 2 trapezoidal lights and 1 flood light from Advance Auto Parts (about $60). The trapezoidals are for the front-facing lights and the flood is for the rear. I bought about 30 feet of 18 gauge wire ($5) and a couple of switches ($10), along with some bullet connectors and butt terminals ($5).
I got a piece of right-angled aluminum from TSC and cut to the length I needed. The aluminum was already perforated with 5/16" holes. Unfortunately, the bolts used to mount the lights were 3/8", so I had to ream the holes out a bit. The bolts stuck out above the top of the aluminum bar by about a quarter inch, so I had to use some spacers between the bar and the ROPS. I made this out of 1/4" flat bar stock. I used JB Weld to laminate 2 pieces together for a 1/2" spacer. I also used the bar stock to make brackets for my U bolts that hold the light bar in place. All the wires are run though lume/conduit to protect them.
I got lucky on the placement of the switches as there were already holes available. There was a 3/8" hole behind the driver's seat to the right that I mounted the rear light switch. The switch for the front lights are mounted beneath the ignition switch. There was a factory hole already there with a plastic plug in it. I just popped out the plug and voila! I did have to ream the hole a bit as it was just a bit too small. I ran the wires from the lights to the front switch beneath the operator's station and came up next to the clutch, where I went behind the instrument panel/steering column over to the switch. I then ran the wire down by the brake pedal and back to the main power line. I'm using the connectors for the 15-amp "Customer Use" fuse. When on, the lights pull just over 14 amps, so this should work out great.
I'm glad I got these on as I can finally see to drive at night!
I got a piece of right-angled aluminum from TSC and cut to the length I needed. The aluminum was already perforated with 5/16" holes. Unfortunately, the bolts used to mount the lights were 3/8", so I had to ream the holes out a bit. The bolts stuck out above the top of the aluminum bar by about a quarter inch, so I had to use some spacers between the bar and the ROPS. I made this out of 1/4" flat bar stock. I used JB Weld to laminate 2 pieces together for a 1/2" spacer. I also used the bar stock to make brackets for my U bolts that hold the light bar in place. All the wires are run though lume/conduit to protect them.
I got lucky on the placement of the switches as there were already holes available. There was a 3/8" hole behind the driver's seat to the right that I mounted the rear light switch. The switch for the front lights are mounted beneath the ignition switch. There was a factory hole already there with a plastic plug in it. I just popped out the plug and voila! I did have to ream the hole a bit as it was just a bit too small. I ran the wires from the lights to the front switch beneath the operator's station and came up next to the clutch, where I went behind the instrument panel/steering column over to the switch. I then ran the wire down by the brake pedal and back to the main power line. I'm using the connectors for the 15-amp "Customer Use" fuse. When on, the lights pull just over 14 amps, so this should work out great.
I'm glad I got these on as I can finally see to drive at night!