Lifting objects with a chain using curl vs lift.

[design]

I needed to unload a 1800# object from my trailer. My loader is an 1100# capacity loader. The loader is a L480 on a L2900. I have found that I can pick up much bigger and heavier objects using the lift function as far as it can go than switching to the curl function. I would never try and move the tractor with a load that is 50% above the rated capacity of the loader. The tractor was very light in the rear end.

What potential issues are there in loading and unloading objects this way?

 

[Bob_Young]

Hmmm...potential rollover risk with so much weight up high, maybe. Restrict yourself to firm level ground when you do it.

If you get the load bouncing at all when you move away with it, the pressure spikes on the hydraulic system could blow a hose and suddenly drop the load. Your pressure relief valve won't protect you from these spikes when the loader valve is in 'neutral'. Restrict yourself further to smooth ground and operate the loader VERY gently.

If you go to lower the load and it seems to be coming down to fast, you might reflexively let go of the control stick. The downward momentum of the load along with its weight might be enough to rupture a hose bringing loader and all down with a crash....or it might pull the tractor over on its nose.

I know I often have a lot of trouble lowering a very heavy bucket load gently. Seems like it always wants to get away from me.

Curl's got a lot more leverage than straight lift; that's why you can do it.

Love these thought experiments
Bob

 

[RoyJackson]

Obviously, have substantial ballast on the 3PH. Make sure you increase air pressure in your front tires too!
The only time I lifted something that was above the loader's capacity at maximum height, I had to use curl.
This was lifting a rotary cutter off a pickup (the cutter was too wide for the Ranger's bed, so it straddled the sides (real fun ride home, BTW).

Once the cutter cleared the pickup's bed, I moved the pick up rather then backiing out.
Then lowered the cutter.

As far as pitfalls, the only thing I can think of is bending a cylinder rod or two. I'd wager you're putting considerable strain on the front axle too...make sure the axle is rated for that much weight.
I wonder what would happen if the relief valve let go when that load is off the ground....think the load would drop?

 

[rbargeron]

I needed to unload a 1800# object from my trailer. My loader is an 1100# capacity loader. The loader is a L480 on a L2900. I have found that I can pick up much bigger and heavier objects using the lift function as far as it can go than switching to the curl function. I would never try and move the tractor with a load that is 50% above the rated capacity of the loader. The tractor was very light in the rear end.

What potential issues are there in loading and unloading objects this way?

It is not that unusual to need the curl to lift, but the load should be near the ground. At max grunt from the curl, many parts of the loader frame and front axle are being stressed at a higher level than the "rated" design. There's usually a liberal safety factor in mechanical equipment, reflecting the reliability of the assumptions - and the consequences of failure. Tractor loaders are probably strong enough to carry three or four times their "rated" capacity without breaking or even bending plastically. But you never know exactly how close the weakest link is to giving it up. Certainly if the load is so much only the curl will lift it, the tractor should be parked, and on level ground - then drive the trailer out from under it, and s-l-o-w-l-y lower the load. If it needs more than filled tires and a rear attachment for ballast, it is beyond the safe working range of the machine. Most people get away with overloading their machines somewhat, but the safety factor is doing the work. When it's used up, it's used up. For 1800 pound packages a nice M**40 with 1153 loader would be a better match. (It's only money )

 

[George2615]

I'd get a gantry lift hoist. Back your trailer under it, lift the load and drive out. I doubt your loader would handle that much weight. HF has one that will handle 1 ton for under $580. Part # is 41188-3vga. I have a rolling gantry in my garage that my Dad bought years ago. Mine has a capacity rating of 1 ton but It easily lifted the front of a 5500# truck off the ground many times. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[Kevin Beitz]

The best thing to to is lift it up just high enough to drive out from under it...

 

[Berniep]

Once the back end gets light or off the ground then the tractor can pivot sideways on the front axle pivot. Really gets your attention. Definitely put your heaviest attachment on the 3ph.

 

[design]

Thank you all.
By the time I had posted to the forum, the Bradco 609 backhoe was safely on a set of skids so I could work on it. For this real world experiment, I had a 300# york rake with an additional 900# of steel railroad rail about 24 inches behind the mounting pins for ballast. The load was on the trailer, and the trailer was parked over the skids I planed to set the object on. I had the tractor facing slightly up hill with the front wheels level.

As many of you suggested, I have learned the following from a successful experience:
1. Park the trailer where you want the load to be dropped.
2. Carefully pick up the load while the front wheels of the tractor are on FIRM level ground.
3. Eliminate any possible side loading to the bucket when the load is in the air. ( i.e. don’t allow the load to sway or get caught on the trailer when moving the trailer out from under it.)
3. Move the trailer out from under the load. Do not move the tractor! Set the load straight down very slowly. I found that using curl to begin to lower the load seemed to work better than using the lift function. Last time I tried lowering a heavy load with lift, the bucket dropped VERY quickly, luckily the object survived.

Don't do this often...
As many of you suggested, when things go wrong, they can go wrong very quickly. I had not considered the failure of a hose and the load crashing down. Hopefully by the time I need to do this again, the loader size will be more in line with the way I use my tractor. (Anyone selling a 40+HP 4WD with 1800#+ loader in southern NH???)
Design

 

[design]

Dick,
For 1800 pound packages a nice M**40 with 1153 loader would be a better match. (It's only money )[/QUOTE]

I am still working on convincing the CFO that a new M series is what we need. Actually, I found another possible candidate, but the ad disappeared tonight. M series seem to sell quickly.
To your point, fingers and limbs are more expensive than tractor payments.
Design

 

[Stef]

If you go to lower the load and it seems to be coming down to fast, you might reflexively let go of the control stick. The downward momentum of the load along with its weight might be enough to rupture a hose bringing loader and all down with a crash....or it might pull the tractor over on its nose.

I did that with my B3030 (forks on the FEL, BH75 on the back). I didn't rupture a hose but the rear end was in the air even with a backhoe mounted on. I used the curl cylinders to lift off a load from a trailer (the trailer's bed is around 2 feet high). It was a pallet of bagged manure. The load was around 1000 lb (7 layers of 5 bags weighting 30 lb each). I won't do it again that's for sure. I didn't like the feeling at all. The rated capacity of my forks are 600 lb (writen on one side of the frame). In fact, it's more a safety capacity than a strength capacity. I used the forks more than one time with loads weighting around 900 lb. The rear end of the tractor is light but it's doable.

Doing that kind of operation is risky. It's very important that the load is centered. If not, the tractor could flip on the heaviest side of the load. Believe me, you don't want to go down that road.