LED lighting on ROPS

[Chugbug]

I'm nor so much an electrician and have looked at every thing on the Web so my questions will be easy I hope. Recently purchased a blazer LED kit. It's has 12 3 watt LEDS (1900 lumens ) and pulls 2.4 amps. I'm going to hook into the wiring harness at the back of my BX25. I will be putting a 15 amp fuse online and will find a heavy duty LED rocker switch. Is there a need for a relay??? I'd like to find a way to turn it front to rear, mostly rear suggestions? Any good videos out there. I've looked everybody loves to show off their work but don't get to see how it was done. Thanks everyone.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

You don't need a relay if your switch is rated for 15A. Most switches are not so you use a relay.

 

[Sysop]

Could do as I did, I found it saves a large hassle of getting switched power to the rear.

Replace the fender mounted work light with a small LED. Route power up the ROPS from there and hook in the additional lighting. All will come on with the factory work light switch. If you're smart, you got the smaller pods that can be pointed where needed rather than a the light bars that are bracketed on both ends and not adjustable.

I made that mistake at first, put one on top facing forward and on me on bottom facing rear. They worked and made a lot of light, but put a lot of light in places it wasn't needed and attracted a great many bugs. I've since switched to a pair of smaller lights that can be rotated or tilted so they can be used front or rear, right or left, up or down. A much better solution for real work. The only thing the bars excelled at was parking at the corner of the garden on cool evenings to do some night time hand-pick harvesting, to light up the garden and attract the bugs over to the tractor and away from me. The new lights should do fine at that too.

 

[newbury]

<snip>I'd like to find a way to turn it front to rear, mostly rear suggestions? <snip>

I, and several others here, have mounted them on magnets. I used "112 LB Holding Power Neodymium Cup Magnet w/ Thread Stud MCHN-40MT". Real easy to swivel around.

 

[Chugbug]

Thanks that's what I was looking for. Mostly need it for the back special during the winter.

 

[Chugbug]

Mines a 7" so it mounts on both ends but I an make a base for it so I can use the magnet

 

[s219]

I think a 15A fuse is too high, plus it won't protect thinner wire that you're likely to be using -- you'd need 14GA wire for 15A fuse to offer protection, and I doubt these lights need 14GA. Make sure the fuse is equal to or lower than the ampacity of the wire. I'd use a 5A or 10A fuse with 16GA wire.

 

[Chugbug]

Sysop I was going to use the open wiring harness at the rear of the tractor and using a in line fuse and buying a higher rated amp switch. Any sugesston would be greatly appreciated! !

 

[TheeKb]

Could do as I did, I found it saves a large hassle of getting switched power to the rear.

Replace the fender mounted work light with a small LED. Route power up the ROPS from there and hook in the additional lighting. All will come on with the factory work light switch. If you're smart, you got the smaller pods that can be pointed where needed rather than a the light bars that are bracketed on both ends and not adjustable.

I made that mistake at first, put one on top facing forward and on me on bottom facing rear. They worked and made a lot of light, but put a lot of light in places it wasn't needed and attracted a great many bugs. I've since switched to a pair of smaller lights that can be rotated or tilted so they can be used front or rear, right or left, up or down. A much better solution for real work. The only thing the bars excelled at was parking at the corner of the garden on cool evenings to do some night time hand-pick harvesting, to light up the garden and attract the bugs over to the tractor and away from me. The new lights should do fine at that too.

Pics?

 

[Sysop]

No pics, but the general idea is that the smaller LEDs combined shouldn't exceed what the original work light circuit was made to handle.