Leaky tire

/ Leaky tire #1  

deadeyejedi

New member
Joined
Dec 16, 2019
Messages
14
Location
saratoga springs ny
Tractor
yanmar sa424
I have a yanmar sa 424 with a slow leak in the front tire . I’m loosing some air at the bead and a tiny hole in the sidewall . The tire shop say they can’t fix it . What are my options here fix a flat? New tire? New wheel and tire ?
 
/ Leaky tire #3  
Tire reline Gempler
 
/ Leaky tire #4  
I went to the tire store that services all the local tractor and industrial equipment and asked them what kind of goo they recommended...It worked. No, I don't remember the brand, only that it was in a pressure container that screwed onto the valve of the flat tire, required rotating the tire for half an hour right afterwards, it worked, and cost was rather high....maybe $25?
 
/ Leaky tire #5  
2015 Full tire ;) 150.00 Shop remounted them. Not the first complaint. Sidewall also!

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/ Leaky tire #6  
Tire shop probably won't fix due to a policy of not doing sidewall patches for road vehicles, which myopically extends to off-road, despite there being no reason not to. I would mark the sidewall leak, patch the inside and clean the beads (tire and rim) good and look for gouges or other possible leak sources. If there is a cut or gouge in one of the beads, a dab of bead sealer or rtv just prior to seating it should fix it. Putting a tube in would also be an option.
 
/ Leaky tire #10  
You only have to break the bead for a tube which in turn all you need to do to insert the Reliner. Both tires Shop installed them Nylon Puncture resistant Have I missed anything. Oh there going to last decades Forever! Tire shop do a tube. That's a roll over Spec... Don't even have to remove the wheel. Only reason I'm 1 arm and handed and took them to do it Simple.
 
/ Leaky tire #11  
I have a yanmar sa 424 with a slow leak in the front tire . I’m loosing some air at the bead and a tiny hole in the sidewall . The tire shop say they can’t fix it . What are my options here fix a flat? New tire? New wheel and tire ?
Slime is flammable and most tire shops will charge you for clean up due to it's gooey mess.

For my Yanmar tires, I'm using FlatOut by Multi-Seal. It is liquid Kevlar. MIL standard and non-flammable. Simple formula and no mess.

FLAT-OUT-LG.jpg
 
/ Leaky tire #12  
/ Leaky tire #13  
If it’s leaking at the bead and also has a hole in the sidewall, that’s a tough combo. Sidewall damage is the main issue. Most shops won’t repair that because it’s not reliable.

You can try bead sealer for the rim leak. That part is usually fixable if the rim isn’t bent or rusty. But the sidewall hole is different. A plug or patch there usually doesn’t last, especially on a tractor.
 
/ Leaky tire #14  
If it’s leaking at the bead and also has a hole in the sidewall, that’s a tough combo. Sidewall damage is the main issue. Most shops won’t repair that because it’s not reliable.

You can try bead sealer for the rim leak. That part is usually fixable if the rim isn’t bent or rusty. But the sidewall hole is different. A plug or patch there usually doesn’t last, especially on a tractor.
The Kevlar fibers will repair a side wall hole. It takes a bit of work as the tire needs to be laid on its side. I know, already done this due to the Locust tree thorn punctures in the side wall.
 
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/ Leaky tire
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Slime is flammable and most tire shops will charge you for clean up due to it's gooey mess.

For my Yanmar tires, I'm using FlatOut by Multi-Seal. It is liquid Kevlar. MIL standard and non-flammable. Simple formula and no mess.

View attachment 5501203
any tricks to this? i followed the instructions to the letter but cannot squeeze bottle hard enough to get any sealant to enter the tire .the schrader valve is out but only air will come out nothing will go in .almost as though there is a check valve in the valve stem. i mean shouldn't the valve stem be completely open into the rim ? should the bottle be vented somehow ? never seen anything like it !
 
any tricks to this? i followed the instructions to the letter but cannot squeeze bottle hard enough to get any sealant to enter the tire .the schrader valve is out but only air will come out nothing will go in .almost as though there is a check valve in the valve stem. i mean shouldn't the valve stem be completely open into the rim ? should the bottle be vented somehow ? never seen anything like it !
Did you remove the valve from the valve stem, and deflate the tire? Usually, I've been able to use the tire to suck the sealant in by getting air out and then vacuuming in the sealant. If you did and it still isn't going in, try a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire (on the tread), then compress it with the ratchet, connect the squeeze bottle and release.

All the best, Peter
 
Put an inside patch on the hole and tube it. An extra couple bucks but an enduring CURE.
Yep, the rules of patching on-road tires don't apply to implement/tractor tires.
I recall the time dad had a rear R1 tire booted, the boot was about a foot square, and extended up one sidewall. That tire was still on the tractor 20 yrs later.
Naturally all the tires were tubed.
 
any tricks to this? i followed the instructions to the letter but cannot squeeze bottle hard enough to get any sealant to enter the tire .the schrader valve is out but only air will come out nothing will go in .almost as though there is a check valve in the valve stem. i mean shouldn't the valve stem be completely open into the rim ? should the bottle be vented somehow ? never seen anything like it !
The trick I do is this,
- Shake the FlatOut container.
- With the FlatOut squeeze until the fill tube is full, but not leaking out.
- Position the valve stem near the ground.
- For a tire I can sit on and it will flatten, connect the FlatOut tube.
- Now squeeze the FlatOut bottle and rise off the tire. This will cause the fluid to enter the tire.
- Put the schrader valve back in the valve stem.

For a common CUT front tractor tire, 1/4 to 1/2 a bottle of fluid.
Add about 10psi of air to the tire.
Take the tire for a rolling walk.
Not fast but where the hole(s) might be.
Rock and roll the fluid in the areas of the hole(s) where gravity works to your advantage and the hole is at the bottom.

For side walls, lay the tire on the ground and rock and roll the fluid toward the hole(s) to fill those voids.

Once the tire hole(s) are filled, let the tire sit for about 2 hours. Every now and then rock the tire. Monitor the psi. Keep it about 10psi. You want the Kevlar fibers to bond and lock with each other. At the end of the 2 hours, inflate to the full psi. Listen for any leaks. A little more rocking and rolling.

Now, I'm very cautious with any of the tire seals on the market. I've been disappointed in some until I did this last trick. With the tire now at full psi, do not place it on the tractor until 24hrs has pass. Its up to you if you want to wait 24hrs or not. I tend to error on the side of complete success vs thinking its good to go, run the tractor awhile, park it and the next day the tire is flat! ugh.

Last year with the prices of new tires and tubes installed at shops went nuts, I bought the Harbor Freight tire changer. This newer design has improvements over all of the prior ones they had sold over the years.

Too many Locust tree thorns in my pastures and too many flats. I now have it under control.


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