Leaking 4300 steering knuckle

[grafpatrick]

I seem to be leaking front axle lube at the right side where the steering knuckle swivels where it joins the axle. Has been weepy for a couple of years, but now dripping so I am inclined to fix it, although I probably do not put 20 hours a year on the machine.

First question- is this a reasonable at-home fix or are there precise/close tolerance parts or special tools needed that only the dealer ought to fool with?

I do not have the service manual, kind of rely on the online parts blow-up diagrams. A quick look did not showed a casting number that did not match the parts book. Where is the casting number? What is the proper sequence to get this apart? Looks like take the wheel off, knuckle cover off, then pull the snap ring off the vertical shaft? I cannot really tell what holds the two castings together. Is it just the snap rings on the shaft?

Final ignorant question - what fluid goes in here? Smells like regular 90 weight gear lube.

 

[dfkrug]

I seem to be leaking front axle lube at the right side where the steering knuckle swivels where it joins the axle. Has been weepy for a couple of years, but now dripping so I am inclined to fix it, although I probably do not put 20 hours a year on the machine.

First question- is this a reasonable at-home fix or are there precise/close tolerance parts or special tools needed that only the dealer ought to fool with?

I do not have the service manual, kind of rely on the online parts blow-up diagrams. A quick look did not showed a casting number that did not match the parts book. Where is the casting number? What is the proper sequence to get this apart? Looks like take the wheel off, knuckle cover off, then pull the snap ring off the vertical shaft? I cannot really tell what holds the two castings together. Is it just the snap rings on the shaft?

Final ignorant question - what fluid goes in here? Smells like regular 90 weight gear lube.

My 4300 project tractor leaks a bit, too. I may end up fixing it, maybe not.
I have done another JD and a Kubota at home. Pretty easy, as long as
you have a decent set of snap ring pliers. I have found that some tractors
that leak there do so more when they are parked with little weight on the
from axles. If you keep weight on, they often do not leak. For me, if it
seeps a bit but does not drip, I won't replace the seal.

JD calls for Hygard hyd fluid, but many tractors specify either hyd fluid or
gear oil. I am a bit partial to gear oil myself. Less seeping, more protection.

 

[dfkrug]

I am placing an order for some JD parts, including the 2 axle seals,
kingpin pivot, and wheel. Like you saw GRAF, the stamped number on the
axle casting (12 22 99) is nothing like the choices listed in the parts
book, e.g. "S20BZ105-1". So I am not sure what to order. There are
several different seal part #s....

 

[dfkrug]

I found the Axle ID....it was buried under paint and the axle oil dipstick
had to be removed. The JD dealer I am using for parts presently had
some additional info on how to find the stamping. All I could see before
removing the paint was "12 22 99".

There are several differrent axles used on these Deeres, so you must have
this # before ordering seals.

 

[grafpatrick]

Dave-
Thanks for the info. Mine was there also. Mine is the A20... axle, with the big nut inboard on the wheel shaft which looks a bit tougher than your snap ring style. Please post your plan of attack and wisdom gained when you've finished.
Thanks for responding

 

[dfkrug]

Dave-
Thanks for the info. Mine was there also. Mine is the A20... axle, with the big nut inboard on the wheel shaft which looks a bit tougher than your snap ring style. Please post your plan of attack and wisdom gained when you've finished.

Actually, yours looks easier than the kind with the snap ring. I gather your
4300 is earlier than mine (2000 model). From the parts diagram, it looks
like the axle assembly comes right out when you remove the 8 cover bolts.
The nut is probably staked, so you will have to unstake it with a chisel or
grinder, and buy a new nut if you are hardcore about not reusing it. To
hold the axle assembly while you remove the nut, you can reinstall the
road wheel with a couple of lug bolts. No special tools.