Land Pride- blade and wheel questions?

   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions? #1  

rutwad

Platinum Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2006
Messages
815
Location
Alabama
Tractor
Massey Ferguson 5465, Kubota M5040, Farmall H (2), Minneapolis Moline R, Case 530CK, Cat 416C
We use a land pride FDR2572 to mow our yard and I wonder which replacement blades would be best to buy- low, medium, or high lift. I don't "groom" or "manicure" my lawn, I just cut it. Bermuda, bahaia, centipede, crabgrass, thistle, and probably alot more. Sometimes the Bahaia sprigs get pretty high before I get a chance to cut it. Other than the obvious, what differs in the blades cutting characteristics. Suggestions?

And for anyone else using a finishing mower, which wheels & tires do you think work best? I don't like the pneumatic because they can loose air and come off the wheel. The non-flat tires would seemingly make the mower "bounce" more. I have thought about replacing a spacer with a heavy compression spring if I could find the right size, short and stiff but I think it may help. What do you think?

THANKS!
 
   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions?
  • Thread Starter
#2  
A couple more thoughts or questions.
1- Do you think I could use a light duty 6' rotary cutter to mow my lawn?

2-The drive pulley for the FDR2572 is 11" O.D. The blade tip speed is 18,130 FPM. I was thinking about replacing the drive pulley with a 12" O.D. if it would fit without any clearance issues. If it works lke I want, it should provide me with 2 advantages. First, I can mow at reduced RPM's, yet maintain my same blade tip speed which would conserve fuel (using a Kubota L4610). Secondly, I could run the tractor at rated speed and increase blade tip speed for those thick areas that seem to grow twice as much as the rest of the yard.

What are your thoughts?
 
   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions? #3  
Don't know much about the L.P. finish mowers since I've never used any of them.

Air-filled vs. solid rubber? On unpaved ground I haven't seen a noticeable difference in turns of bouncing or ride......different story driving on pavement. The general "give" of bare ground combined with the weight of the unit seem to prevent any kind of serious ride problems and solids never have a flat.

I've got a newer, lighter 5' shredder and it does a very decent job of simply trimming the grass.....no clumping to speak of, distributes the clippings evenly, doens't mind an odd branch or small rock. If you're just wanting to cut it then I think a light/medium duty shredder (especially one with the rubber front/rear skirt guards) would do all that you want.
 
   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions? #4  
I replaced the tires on my Landpride AT3590 Grooming mower with Landpride semi solid tires. They cost just over $75 each and I also had to buy larger, 3/4 bolts for the axles, as well as a spacer, some washers and a nut for each axle. I had a 3/4 inch drill bit, but that would be another expense if you don't have that sized drill bit.

The mower rides just like it did before, except the tires no longer fall off the rims and I don't get any flat tires. I was worried about how it would float over the sofer areas because the tires are a bit smaller. No worries, it's still great in mud and sand.

My only issue is that the tires will lower your cut by an inch. It was beautiful, but on the second day, I hit something and busted off a spindle on one of my mower blades. Replacement cost of the spindle assemblies is just under $160. I'm going to order four spaces to bring the mowing height back up an inch to where it was before I replace the tires.

It's expensive, but from what little I've been able to see, it's a smart move for the long term.

My 6ft rotary cutter isn't even close to the results I get from my finish/grooming mower. It's night and day. One cuts the grass nice and even, the other tears it and leaves ridges, high spots and lumps of cut grass. I'm using it right now while waiting on parts, and excpet for cutting rough areas, it's not something I would use for anything else.

Eddie
 
   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions? #5  
I replaced the original medium lift blades that came on my Landpride with high lift blades. So far I've cut the yard 3 times with them and can't tell any difference except for more dust generated. I'll go back to medium lift next time.
 
   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions? #6  
I have a LP AT2672, changed to solid tires can't tell any difference. Just ordered the solid tire set and bolted right up. No more fixing tires every time you mow.
 
   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
It came with pneumatic tires which would always end up breaking the bead. So far, 2 of them have been replaced with solid or semi-solid tires. No problem with the tires, just the roller bearings. I looked at the online parts diagram and realized they have about 3 or 4 different bearings, and apparrently we were given the wrong ones. Hopefully we can get it fixed right this time. I HATE down time, or repairs. My father thought we could cut off the U-shaped brackets around the wheels and weld up a piece of square tubing coming down with a true spindle on it. Then we could run a small trailer tire. Hopefully we won't have to go that route.

I'd still like to replace the 11" drive pulley with the larger 12" pulley for faster blade speed. That will depend on any clearance issues and new wheel costs.

I've always hated cutting grass, but now it's worse since I am trying to figure how much $$$ it takes in fuel versus the old "how long does it take". Maybe I just need a 15' batwing and sharpen the h#%% out of the blades.

It's late and my brain is fried, so overlook these thoughts. But what is your favorite color? Most people always have an answer. If you don't have a favorite, ask your spouse and I'll bet she does. Well I don't have a favorite. How could you? My wife says hers is lavender. So I asked her if she would like a lavender car, or lavender colored grass, or lavender walls. So colors are relative. Somebody asks for my favorite color, I ask favorite color of what? The sky, grass, car, house, etc. Even my wife agrees that she would not like lavender grass.

ANYWAY, we need to figure out a way to start a new trend. Brown grass should be the new green. Brown is beautiful! Then we could spray our yard and be done with it. No mowers to buy, no blades, no fuel. Hhhmmmmm, at the cost of fuel I believe I could probably kill my grass, paint it green, and still come out cheaper than buying fuel. Maybe even put a nice clear coat on it to make it last longer. No watering, aerating, fertilizing. No weeds.

It's obviously too late for me.....:confused: :confused:

Later!

ps. remember, brown is the new green! :D
 
   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions? #8  
I have a FDR1660 and it does a great job. The different lifts on the blades are determined by the soil type, not mowing quality. The low lift is for very sandy soil etc. it's in the owners manual. If you use high lift on sandy soil you could eat up the blades real fast to the point they become dangerous. I'd be worried about modifying the speed of the spindles beyond what they were designed for because a failure could be painful and expensive.
 
   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions? #9  
One of my great learning experiences was the time and money that I wasted modifying vehicles when I was younger. I would replace a perfectly good part with another with the idea that it would be better. Heck, it might have been, but it wasn't something that I could actually notice. Engine mods, sususpension mods, I even got rid of almost brand new tires for more expensive ones on a jeep that rarely went off road. When it did, it was on dry dirt roads. Heck, I could have drove my moms car on most of the dirt roads that I spent over a thousand dollars on those tires and not noticed the difference. In hindsite, I wasted thousands and thousands of dollars, untold hours of labor, only to make a reliable, affordable vehicle into a money pit that didn't work as well as it did before my changes.

I don't modify anything that I want to use on a regular basis anymore. I know the engineers who built it are smarter then I am, and they have allot more experience in what they built then I ever will. Sometimes things need beefing up, but rarely do they need a total change.

I would never change the pully size. You just don't know what you are doing to the rest of the components. Will the gear box handle the increased speeds? Will the spindles hold up to the increase heat generated by that speed? What happens when you hit something? Gopher holes, ant hills and whatever that appears in a field that wasn't there last month all add to the stress and strain on a mower.

Replace broken parts with what is supposed to be there and run it like it's supposed to be run. Modifying it just leads to more headaches and expenses down the road. If you want to buy a cheap anything, look for what somebody else has modified. Sooner or later, they will get tired of dumping money into it and refuse to go back to original. This is especially true with off road vehicles like jeeps and trucks, but it applies to just about anything.

If it doesn't work the way you want it to in factory condition, then you have the wrong mower.

Good luck,
Eddie
 
   / Land Pride- blade and wheel questions?
  • Thread Starter
#10  
EddieWalker said:
One of my great learning experiences was the time and money that I wasted modifying vehicles when I was younger. I would replace a perfectly good part with another with the idea that it would be better. Heck, it might have been, but it wasn't something that I could actually notice. Engine mods, sususpension mods, I even got rid of almost brand new tires for more expensive ones on a jeep that rarely went off road. When it did, it was on dry dirt roads. Heck, I could have drove my moms car on most of the dirt roads that I spent over a thousand dollars on those tires and not noticed the difference. In hindsite, I wasted thousands and thousands of dollars, untold hours of labor, only to make a reliable, affordable vehicle into a money pit that didn't work as well as it did before my changes.

I don't modify anything that I want to use on a regular basis anymore. I know the engineers who built it are smarter then I am, and they have allot more experience in what they built then I ever will. Sometimes things need beefing up, but rarely do they need a total change.

I would never change the pully size. You just don't know what you are doing to the rest of the components. Will the gear box handle the increased speeds? Will the spindles hold up to the increase heat generated by that speed? What happens when you hit something? Gopher holes, ant hills and whatever that appears in a field that wasn't there last month all add to the stress and strain on a mower.

Replace broken parts with what is supposed to be there and run it like it's supposed to be run. Modifying it just leads to more headaches and expenses down the road. If you want to buy a cheap anything, look for what somebody else has modified. Sooner or later, they will get tired of dumping money into it and refuse to go back to original. This is especially true with off road vehicles like jeeps and trucks, but it applies to just about anything.

If it doesn't work the way you want it to in factory condition, then you have the wrong mower.

Good luck,
Eddie

Eddie, don't discredit yourself so much. Design engineers start somewhere, and many designs end up being "flops". Many changes that I made to my ASV RC-100 are now available from the factory.

As far as changing to the 12" drive pulley, there will be no increased speed on the gearbox. The gearbox will turn the pulley, not the pulley turning the gearbox. So the pulley will even be turning at the same speed. The idler, tension pulley will turn faster, as will the blade spindle/bearing/pulley assembly. BUT, Blade will increase from approximately 46 RPS to approx. 50 RPS. I don't see a real issue with this, but the biggest advantage for me would be that I could decrease the tractor by 200+ RPM's while still maintaining the same blade speed. It's not as much decrease as JD's 540e, but it's a start.

As far as increased speed, my father built his Farmall H so that the PTO turns 600 rpm's. We have ran it for years and years with not problems. I have even heard of people running a 540 cutter on 1000 RPM, but that is something even I would not try. It may try to take off like a helicopter!:D

Eddie, how's that 12 item list coming for '08?

On a different but similiar note, I think a feature on my Microwave hood oven should be different. Engineers figure it one way, but I figure it another. When I put food in the Microwave to cook, heat, defrost, or whatever, it runs for the selected time and ends with 4 beeps which notifies me that the food is ready. If I don't open the Microwave door, it will beep 4 more times in approx. 30 seconds, constantly displaying "FOOD IS READY".

Compare that to the timer on my Microwave. Let's say you are baking a cake for your wife's suprise B'day party. Once the cake is prepared, you stick it in the oven and set the Microwave timer for the appropriate time. I don't bake cakes, so I'll just say it takes 60 minutes. Well, you clean the kitchen and go to the living room for a little TV while the cake is baking. Flip a few channels, go to the bathroom, answer the phone, and before you know it the smoke detector is now saying your cake is done. What happened? Well, about 25 minutes ago when you stepped to the back for just a second to relieve your bladder, the timer went off with it's regular 4 beeps. Too bad you did not hear it, because that is all you get.

Now it may be just me, but I think the beeping methods between the microwave and the timer should be reversed. If I don't hear the beeper go off for my food, sooner or later my stomach will remind me about it. If it has been a while, the worse case is it may need a little more reheating. Now you return from the back after the timer went off for your wife's cake, and just as you sit down it starts to beep 4 times again. Well now you are only 30 seconds late, versus waiting on the smoke detector to notify you.

I have several more ideas, but I'll share another one quickly. If a man is sitting on a toilet, there's a real good chance that we all know what he is doing. WHEEEWWW!, What a smell! And if that smell is coming from right up under you, who in the world wants the ceiling exhaust fan to suck that odor from under you to the ceiling. It can't help but travel right by your nose, and with the nose opening on the bottom you are going to ingest about as much odor as that ceiling exhaust fan. Terrible design for the immediate user, but I guess it benefits whomever follows. EVERY MAN FOR HIMSELF, try sealing up that space under you as much as possible, keep the fan off, and save some of you for the next user. No need in unnecessary suffering.
 
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