L6060 50 hour service, hydraulic filter changes

[billybonds]

Book is telling me to change both filters. The dealer also supposedly sent me everything I needed for the 50 hour service, and both hydraulic filters were in the box. But doesnt one of the filters require the system to be drained or the fluid will all pour out from the filter? The sent be a gallon of fluid to top off the system, but that isnt going to handle the whole thing. Can you remove both hydraulic filters on these new L6060 without losing all your fluid?

 

[SDT]

Book is telling me to change both filters. The dealer also supposedly sent me everything I needed for the 50 hour service, and both hydraulic filters were in the box. But doesnt one of the filters require the system to be drained or the fluid will all pour out from the filter? The sent be a gallon of fluid to top off the system, but that isnt going to handle the whole thing. Can you remove both hydraulic filters on these new L6060 without losing all your fluid?

Despite what the manual says, I changed both filters and oil when I did the 50 hour service on my L6060.

You will lose some oil when you remove the filters but not most of it.

You will lose a bit less if you extend all cylinders before removing the filters.

 

[loggin]

Book is telling me to change both filters. The dealer also supposedly sent me everything I needed for the 50 hour service, and both hydraulic filters were in the box. But doesnt one of the filters require the system to be drained or the fluid will all pour out from the filter? The sent be a gallon of fluid to top off the system, but that isnt going to handle the whole thing. Can you remove both hydraulic filters on these new L6060 without losing all your fluid?

Typically if you move fast enough to switch out old filter with new you won't lose too much fluid. Trick is to have everything ready before taking the old on off. A trick to getting the old filters off is to take a box cutter blade and cut the paint between the filter and the block. Often Kubota paints over the filters and it can be extremely difficult to remove.

Hope this helps!!

 

[billybonds]

Typically if you move fast enough to switch out old filter with new you won't lose too much fluid. Trick is to have everything ready before taking the old on off. A trick to getting the old filters off is to take a box cutter blade and cut the paint between the filter and the block. Often Kubota paints over the filters and it can be extremely difficult to remove.

Hope this helps!!

Thanks, i'm having the problem now getting the first smaller filter off. Already snapped the handle on 1 strap wrench.

 

[rScotty]

Thanks, i'm having the problem now getting the first smaller filter off. Already snapped the handle on 1 strap wrench.

Our Kubota has the same engine and transmission as your L6060.

We had a battle getting the transmission and hydraulic filters off for the first change. It was a long way from simple. I'm an experienced mechanic with a shop & ended up with a double-long cheater and went through several types of strap wrenches plus a trip to town before I got hold of the filter tightly enough to turn it. The filter was a lot worse for the wear. It was an all afternoon job.

Then when it did unscrew, the nipple that mounts the filter into the transmission case also unscrewed with the filter far enough that wiggled. So it had to be taken out, cleaned, and retorqued properly.

Luckily, I read up on the problems others have had with that first oil change so I drained the fluid before starting. Otherwise, it would have drained anyway. I recommend that you drain the system first. It's a lot less messy if you do it purposefully. You'll want to change oil and filters both the first time anyway.

If Kubota is listening: There's no reason in the world to mount the filters down under the tractor hidden away in recesses. They could just as easily be mounted somewhere else & more conveniently accessed. Also, the end of the filter could be shaped to accurately fit a deep filter wrench.

rScotty

 

[billybonds]

The transmission filter I got in there with hammer and chisel and gently tapped on it till it broke loose. The hydraulic filter was easy to get off. There was a fair amount of metal filings on the magnet, but I guess this is normal as the machine breaks in and the reason we change them at 50 hours? I ended up reading about a trick of using shop vac to suck from the fill hole, so I put my 7 yr old to work and it worked like a charm, didnt spill a drop of hydraulic fluid.

 

[rScotty]

The transmission filter I got in there with hammer and chisel and gently tapped on it till it broke loose. The hydraulic filter was easy to get off. There was a fair amount of metal filings on the magnet, but I guess this is normal as the machine breaks in and the reason we change them at 50 hours? I ended up reading about a trick of using shop vac to suck from the fill hole, so I put my 7 yr old to work and it worked like a charm, didnt spill a drop of hydraulic fluid.

Good for you, when does the manual call for the next change?
BTW, I write right in the ops manual in pencil - noting hrs, what done, and why. But if I had been thinking ahead i'd have added some extra blank pages for that.

What you saw is about what I saw the first time.. There was obvious metal visible in the filters and the drained fluid too. Nothing that looked like parts or pieces.... but more like dust combined with typical machining swarf. The fluid was cloudy, my guess is that meant it was holding even finer dust and such in suspension.

Saw none of that on subsequent changes. Now at 1200 hrs the fluid has always been crystal clear. I have NOT cut open any used filters to take a look. It runs perfectly and I've learned the value of ignorance.
rScotty

 

[billybonds]

Good for you, when does the manual call for the next change?
BTW, I write right in the ops manual in pencil - noting hrs, what done, and why. But if I had been thinking ahead i'd have added some extra blank pages for that.

What you saw is about what I saw the first time.. There was obvious metal visible in the filters and the drained fluid too. Nothing that looked like parts or pieces.... but more like dust combined with typical machining swarf. The fluid was cloudy, my guess is that meant it was holding even finer dust and such in suspension.

Saw none of that on subsequent changes. Now at 1200 hrs the fluid has always been crystal clear. I have NOT cut open any used filters to take a look. It runs perfectly and I've learned the value of ignorance.
rScotty

I think its 200 for the hst filter and 400 for the hydraulic filter+fluid.

I usually check them off in the book as I do them, and I also write the hours and date on the filters with a paint marker as well. But yeah, it would be helpful if equipment manufactures had log pages in the operators manuals

 

[dstig1]

I was gonna just tell you about the vacuum trick, but it seems you found it out on your own. Works great! Getting those filters off is a real bear. I upgraded wrenches a couple times until I reached this one, that did the trick. Still not easy: