L355SS - More 4wd woes, front axle problems

[grayw0lf1]

So, I'm back with more 4wd issues with my Kubota L355SS. It'll shift into 4wd, but then it just grinds. It appears to be coming fromt he front axle. The front left in particular sounds nasty when spinning it by hand.

I think I have 2 overall issues:
1. The front axle pivot pin was worn slap out, leading to the splines being worn severely on the pinion.
2. Worn bearings, leading to improper backlash in all the gearing.

So, where I'm at now...
The pivot pin is worn out. Is the piece protruding from the front of the axle housing part of the pivot pin as I believe? Next question, does it pull out forward, or does it have to come out from inside the gearcase?


Next issue, I'm stuck disassembling the front left assembly.
Part 1: I'm unable to separate the axle tube from the knuckle, despite all bolts being removed. It appears quite quite stuck. Am i missing something?
Part 2: How do I remove the 2 piece retaining ring on top of the gear?


Here's the chewed up splines on the pinion in the center case.

 

[rbargeron]

On the parts diagram the pivot pin is part of the plate (broken out in this case) The broken end should pull out of the axle housing. The knuckle/axle tube joint probably has adhesive sealant - try driving a screwdriver or cold chisel in at the parting line. The split collar above the gear should just lift away once the top cap is off (may need persuasion). Looks like you'll need to find some parts - the L345DT is the same. Good luck, Dick B

 

[grayw0lf1]

On the parts diagram the pivot pin is part of the plate (broken out in this case) The broken end should pull out of the axle housing. The knuckle/axle tube joint probably has adhesive sealant - try driving a screwdriver or cold chisel in at the parting line. The split collar above the gear should just lift away once the top cap is off (may need persuasion). Looks like you'll need to find some parts - the L345DT is the same. Good luck, Dick B

Good call on the cold chisel. I have everything apart except for the axle pivot pin. It is as stuck as it gets. My 6 ton press couldn't pull it out. The only time I got it to move was when I put the sledge hammer to a 15" piece of steel I welded on. Even then, it barely moved. I'm actually considering trying to extend the current terribly stuck pin by welding on a solid piece & coming up with a new plat on front to retain it (keep it from moving forward).

I'm guessing the pivot pin is supposed to pivot on the axle, whereas mine is stuck in the axle & has been pivoting on the front mounting piece. I know I won't get it perfect, but anything is better than it flopping around the way it was. It'll save $230 for a pivot pin too.

It looks like every bearing in the front axle is noisy. Except for the outermost bearings that actually hold the wheels in place, they all grind at least a little.

Good news.... Though I'll have to set backlash & pattern across the board, the ring & pinion & all but the one set of gears are good.

 

[rbargeron]

..... I have everything apart except for the axle pivot pin. It is as stuck as it gets. My 6 ton press couldn't pull it out. The only time I got it to move was when I put the sledge hammer to a 15" piece of steel I welded on. Even then, it barely moved. I'm actually considering trying to extend the current terribly stuck pin by welding on a solid piece & coming up with a new plat on front to retain it (keep it from moving forward).

I'm guessing the pivot pin is supposed to pivot on the axle, whereas mine is stuck in the axle & has been pivoting on the front mounting piece. I know I won't get it perfect, but anything is better than it flopping around the way it was. It'll save $230 for a pivot pin too.

It looks like every bearing in the front axle is noisy. Except for the outermost bearings that actually hold the wheels in place, they all grind at least a little.

Good news.... Though I'll have to set backlash & pattern across the board, the ring & pinion & all but the one set of gears are good.

After I said the L345 parts are the same I wasn't so sure - the L345 pivot "pin" looks integral with the diff housing in the L345 parts lists. And there are two versions of the housing, both having the pin sticking out of the front. Maybe the early L355 used the second L345 design ?

 

[grayw0lf1]

I've finally made some progress & ordered the first part. I've been holding off on ordering, hoping I'd find a complete axle. I did find one, for $3,500! I only paid $5,800 w/ the loader, so that's not an option. It'll still end up being a small fortune, but at least it will be with all new bearings & such.

Anyways, I welded a piece of 1.5" round stock (which is actually a part replaced on the front suspension of my 1970 C-10) to the end of the stuck pivot pin. The later machines seem to have a much better design for the axle pivot pin, one that uses a bearing! I ordered a 4-bolt flange mount bearing. Now I need to find a few scrap pieces of 1/2" or thicker steel plate to make an adapter plate from.

 

[rbargeron]

I've finally made some progress & ordered the first part. I've been holding off on ordering, hoping I'd find a complete axle. I did find one, for $3,500! I only paid $5,800 w/ the loader, so that's not an option. It'll still end up being a small fortune, but at least it will be with all new bearings & such.

Anyways, I welded a piece of 1.5" round stock (which is actually a part replaced on the front suspension of my 1970 C-10) to the end of the stuck pivot pin. The later machines seem to have a much better design for the axle pivot pin, one that uses a bearing! I ordered a 4-bolt flange mount bearing. Now I need to find a few scrap pieces of 1/2" or thicker steel plate to make an adapter plate from.

I think you're on the right track making as many parts as possible. Finding serviceable used parts is getting tricky. As new parts for older models become scarce the greed impulse takes over and prices get ridiculous. There are other ways to accomplish the function.