L3400 Tie Rods & Forks

[SwampGuy]

I'm about 7 days from buying a new CUT. The decision has come down to the JD790, MF1528, or the Kubota L3400. I'm mostly going to be working in a fresh clear cut, but I have some smaller woods I'll be cutting trails through. One thing that sticks out to me is the exposure of the steering tie rods on the L3400. It seems they would be prone to finding high stumps or snagging saplings. One miss, and boom, bent tie rod. Am I paranoid or overthinking this? The JD and MF have a piston that parallels the front axle.

Also, the JD and MF loaders have quick attach buckets and true pallet forks. The kubota forks look like the jobs that you have to weld hooks on to the bucket, and then you still can't see what you're picking up.

I know the JD is lighter in many ways than the MF and Kubota, but it really is all I need. It's also about $600 cheaper. Being smaller, I'd think it'd maneuver better in the woods too. Still the Kubota is a sweet strong machine. Just a bit worried about those tie rods and the forkset.

 

[Mahana79]

I think the L3400 is tougher than the 790. I was also looking at these last year when i bought my L3400. Im not familiar with the MF as we do not have a massey dealer here. if i remember correctly the L3400 has moare lift cap than the 790. I havent had any problems with the automotive type steering box and tierods. i wasnt real fond it at forst but it hasnt given me any problems. I was used to the hydrostatic type with the cylinder. I have done alot of work moving chuncks of concrete and have set the front of the tractor down on some rocks ont he tierods (by accident) and nothing has bent. the rock rash is evident on the tierods. I did flip the fronts tires and put the valve stems on the inside. first time int he rocks i turned pow, both front valve stems gone. nothing like two flats on the front in the middle of a pile of rocks. thank goodness for the built in jack called a front end loader.

I am very happy with my L3400

 

[art]

I'm about 7 days from buying a new CUT. The decision has come down to the JD790, MF1528, or the Kubota L3400. I'm mostly going to be working in a fresh clear cut, but I have some smaller woods I'll be cutting trails through. One thing that sticks out to me is the exposure of the steering tie rods on the L3400. It seems they would be prone to finding high stumps or snagging saplings. One miss, and boom, bent tie rod. Am I paranoid or overthinking this? The JD and MF have a piston that parallels the front axle.

Also, the JD and MF loaders have quick attach buckets and true pallet forks. The kubota forks look like the jobs that you have to weld hooks on to the bucket, and then you still can't see what you're picking up.

I know the JD is lighter in many ways than the MF and Kubota, but it really is all I need. It's also about $600 cheaper. Being smaller, I'd think it'd maneuver better in the woods too. Still the Kubota is a sweet strong machine. Just a bit worried about those tie rods and the forkset.

We've not seen a problem with them yet! I think to operate with the intent not to harm them will help on their longevity. For years different manufacturers had them under the axle and those had far more trouble then those on the front of and above the axle. ATI offers a skid steer adapter plate to give you a good point to start with for options on the front.

 

[machmeter62]

I have both a JD 790 and L 2800 Kubota. The weakness of the JD is loader lift/height; the three point is also an issue with a 800# capacity. The Kubota is stronger on both ends. Tire wise: go with the R-1's if traction is a concern with ground engaging implements. They are both good tractors.

 

[SwampGuy]

That pic of the L3400 with the round bales is awesome! I've been reading about how much the little bx jobs can do and I thought today that the 790 is much more of a tractor than those, so it should be perfect for what I need. Then I see the pic of the L3400 and I think, hmm, that looks awful good.

Anybody have a backhoe with the L3400? Which model, price, like it, hate it, etc.?

I'm about convinced I need to go with the r4 tires. I'd love the r1's because I've go some lose and soft terrain. Still, going through this logged out area is going to be a mine field for tires. Too many sharp limbs and sapling stumps just waiting to shorten my day with a flat.

Thanks for the replies so far...

 

[wushaw]

Skid steer QA can be used. I have the BH75 for the the backhoe, it does what I want and I'm happy with it. Woods is also a popular Bh.
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[Stackwood]

The R1s on my MX5000 are 6 ply and have proven to be very tough. I've been doing heavy bushogging, reclaiming fields that were turning into woods. After 10 hours of this there isn't a single mark on the tires.

 

[john_bud]

That pic of the L3400 with the round bales is awesome! I've been reading about how much the little bx jobs can do and I thought today that the 790 is much more of a tractor than those, so it should be perfect for what I need. Then I see the pic of the L3400 and I think, hmm, that looks awful good.

Anybody have a backhoe with the L3400? Which model, price, like it, hate it, etc.?

I'm about convinced I need to go with the r4 tires. I'd love the r1's because I've go some lose and soft terrain. Still, going through this logged out area is going to be a mine field for tires. Too many sharp limbs and sapling stumps just waiting to shorten my day with a flat.

Thanks for the replies so far...

With a name like, "SwampGuy", you need R1 tires! If you are worried about sticks, stumps and stickers puncturing the tire, why not get an 8 ply R1? You can go "off menu" and buy a different tire besides the very limited selection that the dealer has. Firestone has a 13.6x24 8 ply R1, so does Titan (formerly Goodyear ag). If I was buying a tractor today, I would get 8 ply R1s.

Don't forget that there are multiple types of R1 tires. R1-W will have about 50% taller lugs than straight R1's.

jb

 

[machmeter62]

SWAMPGUY: After you choose the tractor of your choice, I strongly recommend you get a demo at your property or similar terrain where the tractor will be working the most. R-4's look awesome, but performance is limited to hard surfaces or lawns that don't require ground engagement. I use the phrase of "R-4's for show, and R-1's for go!" As I mentioned, I have tractors with each. If you don't demo them, you may get a financial bath when you change out? Listen to the guy's here and save money and frustration. With a loader working in the woods with R-4's, and 4WD selected, you will basically have only the front two wheels doing 90% of the work!! The R-4's will go over the branches spinning, while the R-1's will get a bite between providing much more traction in both directions! I have tried my R-4's tractor in your conditions, and it is a waste of time. Good Luck.

 

[SwampGuy]

It's funny how I go back and forth on the tires. The R1s make sense to me. I need traction because I'm going to be in the field or woods 99 percent of the time. The remainder will be trying to maintain the gravel drive. I could care less how the tractor tears up the ground. But then a Massey dealer had me convinced the sapling cutoffs and crap (can I say that? ) around the log deck would give me a puncture for sure. So I was convinced to go to R4s. Now I read the postings here and think I was right in the first place. My needs just scream for traction. I've got a pretty substantial grade to climb, and after the timber harvest it isn't exactly a highway. Thanks for the advice on the different R1 types. It makes sense that there would be heavier plys, I just never gave it a thought. I'll see what the dealers can come up with. You think they'd let take just the rims to a tire dealer and give me credit for the rubber I don't use?