L3130 block heater in PA ?

[tricel1]

I was at the Kubota dealer last night.
I'm in the middle of buying a L3130 HST, LA723 QA loader, with 4 way valve.
I asked him for about a block heater.
He said he would put one for on for an extra $100, but he was trying to talk me out of it.
He said you don't need one in PA.
He said he never had to put one on any of the tractors he sold, and he never has trouble starting them in the winter.
Anybody out there have a block heater and do they work good ?
Thank you Ed

 

[varmint]

You'll probably get dozens of replies to this one! Where I live in Northern MD- 30 miles south of the PA line, I don't need a heater to get my B8200 going... but then, if you are in Northern PA, and if it drops to 0 regularly, maybe you would?
Anyway, it fires right up at 25 degrees.

 

[RoyJackson]

I'm in York County, south central PA.

If you leave your tractor outside (or in an unheated building) all year, I strongly reccomend you get a block heater. Granted, you may not need one, but it sure makes starting easier (and less wear on the tractor) if it's been preheated.

Now, if you store the machine in a heated or attached garage or building (which I do), you probably won't need a heater.

 

[Henro]

Like Roy said...

You may not need a block heater, but having one sure feels good.

I would think it has to be easier on the engine at start up. I really noticed the difference when I started my B2910 one time last winter without using the heater...lots of black smoke, more engine noise...

As far as I am concerned, the heater is more for me than it is for the tractor. It just makes me feel better when I start the engine in sub freezing temps.

Another way of looking at it...the sooner you wear out that engine, the sooner you are back at the dealers...guess if I were a dealer I might also say you don't need the block heater...cause it's true...don't need it, but... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Jim_Becker]

I'm SE PA and haven't found a need for the block heater with my (unheated) garaged BX-22 (or my previous tractore, a BX-2200) If you live farther north, than it may be a good investment. That being said, your dealer is probably discouraging you from buying it for a reason. If he/she doesn't think you need it where you are located, you probably don't. It can always be added later.

 

[cnoel]

We are in northern Wyoming and put them in everything we sell as a "standard" option. That said, we probably don't "need" them more than once or twice a year. The 3010 starts very well in cold weather and will start easily down to zero and grudgingly to -20 or so. It is better for the engine to have a heater and you will need a bit less warm up time if you plug it in. If your temp regularly falls below 10 degrees and you will be starting it frequently at that temp or lower, I would get one. The price sounds about right, the part lists for $53 with about an hour labor.

 

[NIXON]

Ed,
I run an F250 PSD it will start at some pretty low temps without the block heater being used (as in I forgot to plug it in ) . But it always warms up faster,and seems happier when I do remember to plug it in on a cold night .
The 3130 I (well my wife /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) just ordered will have a block heater . It will have to sit outside until it helps me build a garage for itself and the truck ! John

 

[Yukon]

I live in NH and I have a block heater in my 2710. I look at as cheap insurance to know that the tractor is warmed up prior to cranking it over on those cold days. It takes a lot less time to get the fluid to cycle when it is warm than cold. This means that your engine is better protected. Just my opinion.

 

[John_Mc]

Something to consider: a block heater is not just to make it easier to start on cold days. It will do that, but IMO that is not the main reason to have one. Preheating the engine prior to starting dramatically reduces engine wear.

I wish I could remember where I read it, or at least what the exact numbers were, but a huge percentage (80%? 90%?) of an engine's wear occurs during start-up. Basically, until the oil gets flowing, you have high wear. Clearances and fits are tighter at colder temps and oil flows more slowly (obviously this is affected by the grade of oil) so a start up in cold weather gets you a double whammy on wear. The block heater for my NH TC33D was about $60. Cheap compared to the cost of the tractor... of course we have more use for the heater up here in Vermont, but I'd have one installed in any part of the country where I figured on needing to start up at much below 30˚ F more than a couple times a year.

Having said all of that, I have to admit I almost never preheat my car engine. Funny that in my plane and on the tractor I am so adamant about it, but I mostly ignore it on my car. (I guess I can try to rationalize that by saying that my cars always seem to rust out from road salt before the engine goes, and the consequences of an engine failure in the plane can be a bit more drastic than in a car.)

John Mc

 

[R_squared]

Sufficient cranking speed and initial start-up lubrication is what your engine needs to start and last a long time. This is assuming your engine does not have other problems. Changing over to synthetic engine oil and a diesel fuel additive might be all that is required. I've read that synthetic oil clings well to engine parts even after the engine has been shut down for a length of time. This past winter I did not have any starting problems, and that was with the manufactures break-in oil still in the block. Of course that was with a new battery and a diesel fuel additive. A good trickle charger is a wise thing to have around the house for any aged lead acid batteries out in the extreme cold. A block heater will not heat up the hydraulic fluid. You will probably not need a block heater if you get proper fuel delivery and your battery is up to charge. Your owners manual should tell you how long to let your tractor warm up in the winter before stressing the hydraulics. I'm originally a SW PA boy.