I have an L275 with a 3" hole in the side of the block (previous owner-induced). I've been planning on patching the block because the crank appears to be fine, but I recently found a L235 engine block that can be had for a good price and I want to know if it can be used, after a little work.
From what I've heard, the D1102 (L235 block) and the D1302 (L275) share the same crankshaft and connecting rods. The engine specs state that the stroke length is identical on both engines (.323) and the bore diameters are .299 and .323, respectively. I have been told that all the mounting holes (internal and external) are compatible between the two, but can someone verify that for me? Considering the fact they use the same crank and rods, the cylinders on the D1102 should have much thicker walls and would be spaced the same as the D1302.
Is it possible (read cost-effective) to take the D1102, remove the cylinder sleeves, have a shop machine the bores then remove the sleeves from the D1302 and drop them in, then bolt everything else up and be good to go? The D1102 crank is not present but my crank seems to be fine and is what would be going into the D1102. What problems should I worry about, or is this job simply not recommended for some reason?
Also, after running this idea past my ASE-certified mechanic buddy, he wanted to know if the sleeves are the O-ring style or pressed in. Is it even possible to remove the sleeves without damaging them?
Thanks in advance for any help that can be shared.
From what I've heard, the D1102 (L235 block) and the D1302 (L275) share the same crankshaft and connecting rods. The engine specs state that the stroke length is identical on both engines (.323) and the bore diameters are .299 and .323, respectively. I have been told that all the mounting holes (internal and external) are compatible between the two, but can someone verify that for me? Considering the fact they use the same crank and rods, the cylinders on the D1102 should have much thicker walls and would be spaced the same as the D1302.
Is it possible (read cost-effective) to take the D1102, remove the cylinder sleeves, have a shop machine the bores then remove the sleeves from the D1302 and drop them in, then bolt everything else up and be good to go? The D1102 crank is not present but my crank seems to be fine and is what would be going into the D1102. What problems should I worry about, or is this job simply not recommended for some reason?
Also, after running this idea past my ASE-certified mechanic buddy, he wanted to know if the sleeves are the O-ring style or pressed in. Is it even possible to remove the sleeves without damaging them?
Thanks in advance for any help that can be shared.