Kubota OEM Front/Rear Work Lights

[TimP]

Hi All.

I have a B3000 with front and rear OEM work light kits. (Not the Headlights, but the extra "Work Lights")

Does anyone know what the Halogen Bulb "Wattage" is that is in those lights?

35Watt, 55Watt ?

Thanks !

 

[Fallon]

Hi All.

I have a B3000 with front and rear OEM work light kits.

Does anyone know what the Halogen Bulb "Wattage" is that is in those lights?

35Watt, 55Watt ?

Thanks !

I want to say the ones off my L4060 were 21 watts. But its midnight & 3 degrees out, so not gonna go look. Kubota L4 Parts lists out 5 watt & 21 watt bulbs, although not where they go.

I promptly put in 2 LED light bars front & rear. So insanely much more light than the dim OEM lights. I was planning on it so didnt buy the OEM rear light kit.

 

[TimP]

I want to say the ones off my L4060 were 21 watts. But its midnight & 3 degrees out, so not gonna go look. Kubota L46 Parts lists out 5 watt & 21 watt bulbs, although not where they go.

I promptly put in 2 LED light bars front & rear. So insanely much more light than the dim OEM lights. I was planning on it so didnt buy the OEM rear light kit.

Hi Fallon.

I can confirm that the Kubota oem work lights are 35 watts each.

But my problem is the connector.

How did you make your connection from your new LED light to the existing Kubota wire connector?

I don't want to cut the wire connector off of the exiting work lights, so I need to match the connectors.

Any ideas where to find them? I went to my local Kubota dealer today and they said the lights come with the connectors already and they have no source for the connectors.

Thanks.

 

[Fallon]

Hi Fallon.

I can confirm that the Kubota oem work lights are 35 watts each.

But my problem is the connector.

How did you make your connection from your new LED light to the existing Kubota wire connector?

I don't want to cut the wire connector off of the exiting work lights, so I need to match the connectors.

Any ideas where to find them? I went to my local Kubota dealer today and they said the lights come with the connectors already and they have no source for the connectors.

Thanks.

No clue unfortunately. I put in a new fuse panel, relays & switches to run my new light bars.

They look like bullet connectors. I'm use to the cheap ones that have the same crappy red/yellow/blue plastic insulators every other cheap crimp connector has. But the first hit Googling "bullet connector" Google Express looks like it has a decent insulator on it. Possibly like the soft UV resistant one Kubota uses.

I used the really nice Deutch connectors on my build. I need to keep an eye out for the OEM style though. They are on the lollipop hazard lights & the only ones that will fit through a hole the size of the shank on the lights. One of the lights just went out & I was contemplating replacing it with a LED fixture. Too spendy & i dont want to hassle with the connectors. Just going to use a standard 1156 bulb I expect as I have a pile from replacing all the ones in the camper with LED 1156s to conserve battery.

 

[mddorange]

But my problem is the connector.

How did you make your connection from your new LED light to the existing Kubota wire connector?

I don't want to cut the wire connector off of the exiting work lights, so I need to match the connectors.

Any ideas where to find them? I went to my local Kubota dealer today and they said the lights come with the connectors already and they have no source for the connectors.
Thanks.

I had the same problem when I did my connection to the "work Light" connector provided by Kubota. I could not find it at any US provider so I looked in the Far East, Japan and China, and sure enough I found the exact ones. I ordered a pack of 25 which actually is 50 because the pack had 25 male and 25 female connectors. You have to look for "T Blade" connectors.

Here is an example: T-Shaped DC Socket for YAESU DC Power Cord FT-78R、FT-88R、FT-89R 49shop,walkie-talkie,Handheld Transceiver- Radio

 

[TimP]

No clue unfortunately. I put in a new fuse panel, relays & switches to run my new light bars.

They look like bullet connectors. I'm use to the cheap ones that have the same crappy red/yellow/blue plastic insulators every other cheap crimp connector has. But the first hit Googling "bullet connector" Google Express looks like it has a decent insulator on it. Possibly like the soft UV resistant one Kubota uses.

I used the really nice Deutch connectors on my build. I need to keep an eye out for the OEM style though. They are on the lollipop hazard lights & the only ones that will fit through a hole the size of the shank on the lights. One of the lights just went out & I was contemplating replacing it with a LED fixture. Too spendy & i dont want to hassle with the connectors. Just going to use a standard 1156 bulb I expect as I have a pile from replacing all the ones in the camper with LED 1156s to conserve battery.

Thanks for the info. I made another weird discovery about the Kubota work lights. I had "assumed" that the front and rear work lights were exactly the same.... but I was wrong. The lights themselves look the same, but the connectors are different in that the Front connector has the FEMALE end of the connector coming FROM the tractor. On the Rear lights, it's the opposite. The FEMALE connector on the rear is coming from the Light. I don't know why, but obviously the light kits are NOT the same.\

I would go ahead and just cut the connectors off all of ends and crimp on bullet connectors. But there is very, very little slack in the wiring coming from the tractor. I am concerned that if I screw things up I may in for a big project having to remove the roof of the cab to add wire.

So... instead, I will cut the connectors off of the lights and attached them to my LED light wiring. That way, all I have to do is plug them into the tractor supply wire.

 

[TimP]

I had the same problem when I did my connection to the "work Light" connector provided by Kubota. I could not find it at any US provider so I looked in the Far East, Japan and China, and sure enough I found the exact ones. I ordered a pack of 25 which actually is 50 because the pack had 25 male and 25 female connectors. You have to look for "T Blade" connectors.

Here is an example: T-Shaped DC Socket for YAESU DC Power Cord FT-78R、FT-88R、FT-89R 49shop,walkie-talkie,Handheld Transceiver- Radio

Hi mddrange,

Thanks a lot for that link and the info.

Unfortunately, those aren't the same connectors on my B3000.

The more posts I read about owners installing work lights, I realize that Kubota used many different connectors. It seems no two are the some from tractor to tractor.

Even on my B3000, the front and rear work lights have the connectors reversed. The male and female ends are reversed for the front set and rear set. The front lights have a male connector coming from the light, and the rear light has a female connector coming from the light.

It's so odd, and I can't understand why it's like that.

I thought it would be a pretty easy task to remove the old work lights and install the LED lights, but it's not.

 

[mddorange]

Hi mddrange,

Thanks a lot for that link and the info.
Unfortunately, those aren't the same connectors on my B3000.
The more posts I read about owners installing work lights, I realize that Kubota used many different connectors. It seems no two are the some from tractor to tractor.

Even on my B3000, the front and rear work lights have the connectors reversed. The male and female ends are reversed for the front set and rear set. The front lights have a male connector coming from the light, and the rear light has a female connector coming from the light.

It's so odd, and I can't understand why it's like that.
I thought it would be a pretty easy task to remove the old work lights and install the LED lights, but it's not.

Yes, I found that the connector in the back provided by Kubota for their work lights was "male" when I was expecting "female."

That is why I bought the pack with both male and female so that I could use either as needed.

 

[dennis103]

I cut the connector off the Kubota light, soldered and used heat shrink tubing. Plugs into the tractor just like original. Once you put Led's on you won't go back. Leave about 2" of wire on the old lights. That way if you want to put them on something else you can. I can't imagine you will use them again. Led's are so cheep I would buy new led's for about any light project now.

 

[TimP]

mddorange,

I verified it is the SAME part number for the front and rear worklight kits. So how did they end up with the connectors reversed?

One with male connectors and the other with the female connectors.

It just defies logic why one has a female connector and the other has a male connector.

I was on my computer for a couple of hours yesterday trying to find a connector that matched what I have on the tractor lights right now.

No Luck..... :.(

I have attached a pic of what I have.