Kubota L2402DT leaking rear final drives - corrosion issue

[Mich75]

Hi
Following this post here about the leaking rear hubs on my Kubota L2402DT, I'm looking for opinions and suggestions as how to best tackle this.

3/16" plate has rusted right through, I would like to fix this "properly" and replace as much of the lost material possible (preferably not with jb weld!)

Backside, under what is left of the re-enforcing gusset (after cutting out as little as possible)

Am considering welding a plate over the area outlined in red:


Confident enough with stick welding (no exp of tig or mig) but not sure what to expect re thermal effects on nearby bearing housings? (also need to determine if there is enough material left to weld on to...)
Any better ideas? or should I just get on with it

 

[rbargeron]

Yup - just get to it. I'd suggest degreasing by washing out the hidden cavity with brake or carb cleaner, and painting it with phosphoric acid (Ospho) to stop the rust. Then cover it with new scab reinforcements. Seal-weld the scabs on - no gaps, seal it from the outside, entombing the weakened area and providing a new structural outer skin that also prevents new water from getting to it. Skip around doing the welds in small sections to control the heat and shrinkage. The formed housing is low-carbon mild steel so shrinkage and warping should be minimal. Fill in the old gaps. This style welded housing is common to several '70s L series models. Now that they are 35+/- years old, oil leaks may become more common - but I think the solution is to simply seal them up with more welded material. The damage would need to be much worse to significantly affect strength.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I would avoid using brake cleaner on items to be welded. Might only be an issue with the combinations of MIG gas and certin types of brake cleaner, but I've read of the poisonous gas phosgene, a nerve gas, being a by-product and causing perminant serious damage to the nervious system.

I wish I still had that artical and could give greater details, but it was a credible source. I have just made it a habit to steer clear of brake cleaner anytime a welder is involved. Better to be safe than sorry.

Edit: have you checked with Messicks? They might have a factory replacement part that is cost effective. I have been very pleased with their parts avalibility, speedy shipping, and overall helpfulness. Another option might be Wengers of Myerstown PA if you want used parts.

But if you go the weld-it-up route...

I would MIG weld that before I tryed stick. Much easier to get clean neat bead with no slag to chip off.

 

[rbargeron]

I would avoid using brake cleaner on items to be welded.................Messicks..might have a factory replacement part that is cost effective.

Didn't know that about brake cleaner - is it safe with ventilation?
For replacing the part with new, the similar (identical?) right side housing for a L345 is $650 Another issue is determining the right part number to fit a L2402. Bet it's just as pricey if not worse.