Kubota D1105 Fuel shutoff issue?

[V65ozzie]

I have a piece of equipment(Terramite t7) with a D1105 engine. It's been running rough for a few days, and checking the service records shows me it overdue for filters. I replaced both(it has a small plastic trash filter near the fuel tank and the cartridge filter bolted to the motor) Fired it up and all seemed good. Driving it to it's parking spot I noticed a tire was low, pulled up the the shop, shut it down, filled the tire, now it's a no start.
Things I've done:
1)Checked for fuel flow from electric pump, good flow, up to the injection pump, and running back out the return
2) disconnected lines to injectors, and cranked, no fuel evident.
3) pulled shut off solenoid, unsure of how to test, it has a 2 prong connector and a secondary ground bolted to the body. I checked the source wires. key on, I have power to one wire in the connector, the other is a ground. With key off I still show a ground, but no power.
I connected a power probe to the corresponding connectors on the solenoid and juiced it. The pin does not move in and out. Should pin retract in run mode? If I push it in with my finger, it will stay in with power applied, but not retract on it's own. removing power returns the pin to the out position.
Connected power to the negative(I believe) terminal and grounded chassis, pin moved rapidly in and out.

I believe the pressure pump has a manual bypass lever(next to throttle cable connection) I moved this to all positions while cranking, still no fuel.

At this point I'm pretty much lost, diesels are really not my thing. But, I'm learning........
Anyone have any tips on testing solenoids, anecdotal experiences, suggestions?
Thanks in advance

 

[100 td]

A lot of fuel solenoids have 2 circuits, a pull in coil (high current intermittent duty, low impedance ) and a hold in coil(low current, continuous duty, higher impedance), basically the hold in is powered by eg. IGN ON constantly, and the pull in coil is powered momentarily by eg. the start switch etc.. When the hold in coil is energized alone, it's not strong enough to pull the solenoid in (but strong enough to hold, once pulled in), and then the pull in coil is activated, the solenoid will operate and stay energized by the hold in coil, even when the pull in coil is disconnected.
So by the sounds of it you are getting the OK to RUN (hold in), but not to START (pull in), so you are probably not allowed to START the machine due to a safety switch in the START circuit. Have you left it in gear, is the PTO de-selected, is the clutch in, is the HST/shuttle in neutral, are you sitting in the seat etc.
Your machine may have limted safety switches, still you need to ensure your solenoid is pulled in when cranking.
This is of course assuming you have no air in your fuel system, and you haven't activated the manual fuel shut off lever on the engine.

 

[V65ozzie]

Thanks for the reply. Armed with that info I checked the power supply again. Getting 12 V to one wire in the run position, 12 V to the second wire in the start position, and of course the ground.... What is my next course of action. What I believe is the manual shut off lever on the pump is spring loaded, and returns when actuated.
How to bleed the system? I did just change the filters, however, the machine was run for 10 minutes after the filters were changed.
No actual safety switches on the machine to negate starting, no seat switch, pto drive, no trans safety.(been through those issues on the MF tractor, found a badly designed neutral safety switch on that, modified it for no further problems)
This motor is in a terramite t7, about as basic as it gets.

Update: Removed the solenoid, but kept it hooked up to the harness. With the solenoid grounded, pin retracts in the start position, and stays in when key is released to run position. I figure this means the solenoid is good.
I remember reading, somewhere, of some pumps that were "sticky" Anyone got a diagram so I can figure out how this thing comes apart?
I'm wondering if the pump has stuck, I pushed a small allen wrench into the area where the pin sits, and figured I should be able to push something in and out, but I feel nothing.

Update 2. Removed the sidecover off the injector pump, manually pushed the "Rack" backwards, took some effort, but it moved, engine fires up. So, I'm assuming that the sliding rack is stuck. Looks like the rack should slide feely, and when power is cut to the solenoid, the pin should push the rack to the "off" position. When the pin retracts(start-run), a small spring should pull it to the run position. It took a large screwdriver and careful placement on the rack pin to move it to the "run" position.
So, how do I free up the rack?

Update 2 : I figured out how to get the pump out(required removing the intake-no bolt clearance) upon removal, the rack went free. So, I looked closer, it appears that one of the "pistons" is not functioning properly. When pushed on, one of them stays in, the others pop right back out. With the one in, the rack jams, when it drops down, the rack goes free. I'm still lacking a schematic, so all I can figure is that there is a broken spring somewhere. Anyone have access to a schematic? I also found a small piece of metal inside the housing, a quick look showed me it appears to have broken off one of the actuating arms, so, I'll need that piece also I guess. Seems easy enough to remove those parts and replace, but that tiny little spring scares me, I'll need my hemostats to get a grip on it so it doesn't disappear into the depths
Now, where is a good place to order parts for Kubota engines? My local Kubota dealers are useless, they want a tractor model number....but it's just an engine, in another brand machine...... The machine manufacturer refers me to Kubota, who in turn refers me to the machine manufacturer. It's can't be that difficult, I've seen these engines in all kinds of equipment........

 

[V65ozzie]

Update 3. Pulled the strange pump piston, the spring is broken into 3 pieces. Just looking for leads on good parts places now.

 

[100 td]

There a few threads on similar issues (broken springs) in the OTT forum, I'm expecting you have a workshop manual?
If not, kubotabooks.com has an 05 series manual, and there are others on the net.

 

[100 td]

http://www.promacinternational.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Kubota_Workshop_Manual.pdf
Also translate this page
Overhaling av Bosch MD type minipump (Dieselpumpe) - Batforumet - baatplassen.no. Din hjemmehavn pa nettet!
Also there is a bit of info in this as well regards the internals of a pump
http://www.c34.org/manuals/ServiceManual.pdf

 

[Spanner]

That post #2 by 100 td is a very good explanation to correct your mis-understanding of the solenoid operation. And you have progressed well from there to find your problem.

As you say, the D1105 powers many items of plant. Any Kubota dealer should be able to source parts for you. Also PM 'thepumpguysc' on here and he may have a source.

100 td - Whereabouts downunder are you? (And how do you get that upside-down?)

 

[100 td]

Kubota 2cyl Diesel T16 Mower Broken Injector Pump Spring (dropped cylinder) - YouTube
Kubota Z482 T16 Diesel Injector pump Spring replacement - YouTube
Injector pump - OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota

 

[V65ozzie]

Thanks for the info fellas, very informative.
Headed to a MF/Kubota/Mahindra dealer today on an unrelated project, hopefully will be able to source the parts I need.
Does anyone know how the Governor assembly comes out?
It's not really explained in the manuals. I will need to replace one of the arms, the one with the sliding part on it, the stray piece I found came off of that arm.
Hopefully my experiences on this will be able to help others in the future.

 

[100 td]

A couple of pics and explanation in this one, fairly similar manual, just a pic showing circlip on shaft and fork lever cover
http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...es/&file=05 series engine workshop manual.pdf