Kubota Blade, Loader, vs. NH (Blue)

[Anonymous Poster]

I am close to negotiating the purchase of a Kubota B2910. I live in southern Michigan and have a drive 1/3 of a mile long with some drift areas. What type of implement should I get to plow the drive? I thought a Curtis blade, attached to the loader arms, with the option to turn the blade left & right, would be the way to go. I've since learned that the option to control the angle of the blade would involve some additional hydraulics and cost (<$200). One dealer recommended using the back blade and driving through the snow and angling the back blade. I do not want a set-up where I have to look over my shoulder as I have a permanent neck problem that would preclude turning my head for extended periods of time. A dealer that did not recommend the Curtis blade indicated that I would end up moving much of the drive surface over the course of the winter with a front blade.(?)

Another question: The front loader for a B2910 is listed in the brochure as Model LA402. All the quotes I've been getting identify a Model LA401. Anybody know the difference between the two?

To further confuse things, my wife and I drove a NH TC33D. The SuperSteer option (@ $900) does not seem to be worth it. I noted that the NH TC33D is a 3-cylinder diesel w/ 91.3 cu.in. displacement & 33 Gross Hp but the Kubota B2910 is a 4-cylinder diesel w/ 91.5 cu.in. displacement & 30 Gross Hp. The other thing that caught my eye was the weight difference. The Kubota B2910 w/ HST weighs is at 1763 pounds but the NH TC33D w/ HST (FWD conventional [w/o SuperSteer]) weighs in at 2474 lbs. Things that make you go hhmmmm. Both are nice tractors. The financing available on the NH is incredible vs. the Kubota. Any discussion on pros/cons of each tractor would be appreciated. Thank you. - JayD

 

[ejb]

I *almost* bought a big snowblower for my tractor my first winter at my new house (which also has a long drive), but I figured I'd save the $3-$4000 is was going to cost me and see what kind of job I could do with just my loader (on my JD5410). Well, I am really happy to say that a snowblower would have been a waste of money for me. The front-end loader did a fine job of keeping my long driverway clear, and I live at a fairly high elevation and get a fair amount of snow (New England). If I plowed snow for a living, and needed to be as effecient as possible, maybe I wouldn't choose a loader to do the work of a plow or blower, but since I don't mind spending a few extra minutes per storm making an extra pass or two, it really wasn't a problem.

My suggestion would be to see if you can make due with what you have, a tractor with a loader does a fine job of snow removal. Save the money for something you can't do with a loader (like tilling for example).

Just my two cents

 

[_RaT_]

JayD, the problem with comparing tractors from different manufactuers is that you can't, not based on brochure specifications. As has been noted before, Kubota uses a different method to evalute and spec out their tractors, particularly in terms of weight. I have seen where they do not include tires in the weight figure and other "options" since that weight value is subject to change depending on options chosen. As far as HP goes, the Ford 2120 I have, as I remember has approx. 45 hp., but after driving another brand tractor with comparable HP, I question just makes one HP rating seem so much less powerful feeling. Could torque be the answer? Maybe, but tractor manufactuers typically don't have that spec. available. I take HP with far less weight then other issues. The runaway biggest item for me is loader capacity. In this case more is always better, lots better. Here again Kubota will rate it at the center of the bucket and not at the pivot. Your rating at the pivot will be considerably higher. As far as snow goes, your going to have to talk to folks back east as the snow I deal with is at our cabin in Tahoe, up there it snows 3 to 4 feet in a storm and big equipment is all you can use. Its not unusual to have wallsof snow on the side of the driveway 8' and taller Rat...

 

[Thomas]

JayD,
Sounds like the fun has begun now that you and your wife has narrow it between two models.

Not sure how much snow falls out there in Michigan at a given time,but I hear the wind can blow.

!/3 of of mile driveway tad long for a front end loader thats if you have to keep the driveway clean often or you don't have much time.
You could always purchase second hand plow that swings 45 degress both side and make or have someone make you a hitch to fit your bucket,thats what I did and it works great.

If the dollars aren't factor and you plus your wife would like comfort also a peace of mine....well its pretty cut and dry now.

I never look into Kubota credit program,but I take its high?

Just take your time and you plus your wife enjoy theses times.

Thomas..NH

 

[Anonymous Poster]

JayD.....I don't think you should write-off the Curtis blade attachment for your loader. You don't have to get hydraulic angling. When plowing a long driveway, you will primarily be casting the snow to the right side. Just set it at 15 degrees and drive. Maybe once or twice in the final clean-up areas you may have to dismount and change the blade angle, but no big deal. For clearing a gravel drive, set the skid shoes so that the blade is an inch or so above the nominal road surface to minimize the amount of gravel moved off the road with the snow. In my opinion if you already have the loader, the loader blade attachment is the most user-friendly (you don't have to turn around) and economical approach to clear snow from a long driveway. I justified the purchase of a John Deere loader blade attachment (without hydraulic angling) for my JD 420 loader this way.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I wish I had the snow to move! I have a hydraulic blade that was built by Vaagen Timber Products in Washington State. It is an HD unit, I couldn't damage it with my tractor if I tried. For the side to side angling I just plumbed it fitting into the power beyond port on my loader control, and mounted a simple 3 position valve and handle.

If you have sandy or non rocky soil you can use it as a blade for dirt work as well. It is not a subsitute for a real dozer for ground work but for backfilling or final grading it works great. You can tilt it forward with bucket curl to scrape going backwards and be able to see more what you are doing, as going forward you sometimes don't know if you have gone too deep.

The skid posts are a must as the other gentleman mentioned, you can set them down so you don't scarfe up your asphalt for snow or not dig up your driveway for dressing up the gravel.

I always had the backhoe on my Ford NH so this subsituted great for a box scraper when needed. Unfortunately I don't think I can make this work even with mods with my L35 as the L35 has 4-bar linkage and the connections are a lot farther apart, will probably have to send it off when the Ford goes. Could probably connect it to the BX but I'd have to drive along with the L35 to lift it up everytime! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

This business of how fast your hydraulics work is another consideration for snow removal with a loader bucket. If you loader bucket doesn't dump fairly quickly, the snow won't come out if it gets packed in there.

I saw one guy that kind of jury-rigged a panel that mounted over the front of his loader bucket that was built to be at a slight angle so the the snow would go off to the side and not fill the bucket. Crude but he seemed to make it work OK.

del

[email]oldcarparts@mygarage.com [/email]

 

[JimBinMI]

JayD,

Did you notice on the TC that the seat swivels 20 degrees each direction...this might be a nice feature to have with a neck problem!

Also, I own a TC18 and you're right about financing, it helped me out. The tractor has been great for me and I have worked it hard moving fill sand and removing topsoil with a rear scoop, it has exceeded my expectations.

On the weight, the Kubota weight seems to be an on-going search to find out what they actually weigh. I know that my TC weighs in similarly with comparable Kubota's like the B1700/2100 (as long as the Kubota brochure I have is accurate) yet my 3 pt. is stronger, it is rated for 250 lbs more than the B1700/2100/2400 at 24" aft of hitch.

You might want to check out all of the specs first, lay the brochures next to each other and if the answers aren't there start calling the dealers. I know that the TC's are quality built tractors! /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif

Don't forget to consider the dealer in the mix either!

Good Luck, JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I forgot to mention in my last post, that you definitely want to add the extra lever and valve if you have any landscaping to do. When you angle the blade left or right, and curl the bucket and lower the blade, it ends up on the ground with one side higher or lower depending on the above factors which lets it act like a poor mans 6-way blade. If you have a slope you are trying to terrace, or trying to make a slope in a tight area this can do the trick. It may sound impossible, sometimes I still can't picture why it is in my mind, I have to go look it again to believe it. You unfortunately can't control the cutting angle when one side is tilted way up, but it still works, again...only for light duty. Otherwise it will just bounce or dig in funny unless you go SLOW. When I was cutting a terrace it was a tossup time wise to go this route. I usually cut a trench at the right level with the backhoe for one side's tires to rid in, then angled the blade with it level so the spoil went down hill. Have fun!

 

[Jay Drow]

I'm looking at the TC33D. Is the SuperSteer worth it? I don't have trees to mow around but I have 8 acres of woods to get through. I can buy a TC33D w/ my Ford A-Plan discount and w/ 2.9% financing. The price comes in less than a B2910. Hard to pass up and the TC33D appears to be a little more tractor. Thnaks for all the info', thoughts on the SuperSteer will be appreciated. - JayD