Kubota B6200d with a Kubota RC4862F Mid Mower Help

[ShawnLimy]

I just picked up this Kubota the other day, I am totally new to PTO, I'm trying to disconnect the PTO shaft, Or do I need to take the front PTO off? I need to remove the Mower Deck. Any help would be greatly welcomed. Thanks.

 

[bg71361]

Should be a pin you remove on tractor side, drive shaft will stay connected to deck. From the picture it appears the pin has already been removed?

 

[ShawnLimy]

Should be a pin you remove on tractor side, drive shaft will stay connected to deck. From the picture it appears the pin has already been removed?

Yes BG, I have removed the pin, I can't seem to disengage the shaft.

 

[bg71361]

The drive shaft should slide back onto itself try some lube at the mid-point of overlap and gently tap near the pin while rotating the driveshaft.

 

[ShawnLimy]

The drive shaft should slide back onto itself try some lube at the mid-point of overlap and gently tap near the pin while rotating the driveshaft.

Thanks, I will give that a try.

 

[ShawnLimy]

The drive shaft should slide back onto itself try some lube at the mid-point of overlap and gently tap near the pin while rotating the driveshaft.

Still a no go, I'm not sure why it's being this stubborn.

 

[JWR]

I wonder what pin you removed !? Yikes! When all this is over you probably need to go back and see where that pin belongs. At least on the BX series Kubotas and B2150s (I've worked on half a dozen of them) there is a spring loaded collar around the end of the driveshaft that mates to the mid-PTO under the belly of the tractor. Usually that collar slides along the axis of the shaft outward away from the PTO maybe 1/2" and frees the shaft from the PTO. I don't have a picture handy, but essentially all PTO shafts have a machined "ditch" around the circumference of the shaft which interrupts the splines and provides a place for the locking collars to seat and hold the shaft female splines onto the PTO.
In your rightmost photo (blown up, not in just the small version) you can see that collar (?) in the far right of the image just beyond the rear U-joint. That is your release collar. Some variations turn to release and some pull. I can't tell which your's is. HOWEVER...

There is a POSSIBILITY that your older machine does not have a release collar and maybe I am looking at the housing around the PTO rather than a release collar ?? Can't tell. That would be consistent with your and BG's discussion. If that is the case, then maybe you really did need to remove the pin as you did. IF THAT IS THE CASE use penetrating oil and soak the splines, let it sit over night, and try again to remove it. The splines may well be rusted and you might have to tap the U-joint yoke with a heavy punch to get the u-joint female part to move on the PTO shaft. Just enough to break the rust.

For sure as BG said the entire drive shaft and U-joints stay with the mower deck NOT the tractor.
My B2150's were made in about the same years as your B6200 so it would seem strange if the belly mower connections were different -- but of course they could be. Let us know of your progress & good luck on it.

I see you mention that the deck is a RC4862F . Tractor Data website shows the 48" belly mower for the 6200 being a RC4862H rather than F. I wonder if that indicates some drive shaft difference?

 

[bg71361]

No spring loaded collar on a B6200, its a pin with a cotter pin. Old school.

 

[JWR]

No spring loaded collar on a B6200, its a pin with a cotter pin. Old school.

OK, I see. Surprising that the B6200 made in the same years as the B2100 have the 'old school' pinned U-joint rather than a collar. Well, the OP will just have to get the splines loose somehow. I suggested penetrating oil and tapping with a heavy punch. Would an impact hammer be able to loosen that up without damage ?

 

[ShawnLimy]

I wonder what pin you removed !? Yikes! When all this is over you probably need to go back and see where that pin belongs. At least on the BX series Kubotas and B2150s (I've worked on half a dozen of them) there is a spring loaded collar around the end of the driveshaft that mates to the mid-PTO under the belly of the tractor. Usually that collar slides along the axis of the shaft outward away from the PTO maybe 1/2" and frees the shaft from the PTO. I don't have a picture handy, but essentially all PTO shafts have a machined "ditch" around the circumference of the shaft which interrupts the splines and provides a place for the locking collars to seat and hold the shaft female splines onto the PTO.
In your rightmost photo (blown up, not in just the small version) you can see that collar (?) in the far right of the image just beyond the rear U-joint. That is your release collar. Some variations turn to release and some pull. I can't tell which your's is. HOWEVER...

There is a POSSIBILITY that your older machine does not have a release collar and maybe I am looking at the housing around the PTO rather than a release collar ?? Can't tell. That would be consistent with your and BG's discussion. If that is the case, then maybe you really did need to remove the pin as you did. IF THAT IS THE CASE use penetrating oil and soak the splines, let it sit over night, and try again to remove it. The splines may well be rusted and you might have to tap the U-joint yoke with a heavy punch to get the u-joint female part to move on the PTO shaft. Just enough to break the rust.

For sure as BG said the entire drive shaft and U-joints stay with the mower deck NOT the tractor.
My B2150's were made in about the same years as your B6200 so it would seem strange if the belly mower connections were different -- but of course they could be. Let us know of your progress & good luck on it.

I see you mention that the deck is a RC4862F . Tractor Data website shows the 48" belly mower for the 6200 being a RC4862H rather than F. I wonder if that indicates some drive shaft difference?

Thanks for your info, The pin that I removed is a sleeved bolt with a lock washer and a nut, right at the universal. I talked to my Farmer buddy last night, he said exactly what you and BG said, penetrating oil, leave on over night and tap with a ball pein hammer, turn it back and forth, and be patient. Going out soon and give it a go. Thanks for your help guys, I will let you know how I make out.