Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question

   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question #1  

Richard

Elite Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2000
Messages
4,950
Location
Knoxville, TN
Tractor
International 1066 Full sized JCB Loader/Backhoe and a John Deere 430 to mow with
I have a slide in range. Model is KSIB900ESS (slide in, convection oven / Induction top) stove. Suffering "F2-E0" error.

Frankly, it's been quirky since day one. There are several boards inside. I'm trying to ascertain which one I need to replace. Had a repair guy out here a year or so ago, he basically said "I'd replace this board for you.....if it doesn't fix it, we'd have to replace that board" (paraphrased)

So that suggests to me he doesn't really KNOW which is the problem. He wanted like $1,200 to swap out the single board and if I'm presuming it's the same part, I can buy the part for essentially $300. This means I could try it.... if it didn't work, swap another board (using his method) and still be cash ahead. By the way, this was the service guy from the very dealer from which I bought the unit.

I'm leaning towards the control board, part/item # W11100619 / Item # 4534437

Couple of my symptoms:

1. If I hit the oven light button, lights do not turn on. Open door, they work fine.
2. If I go into Error Codes mode, (cancel/cancel/start) the number 3 on pad doesn't advance anything, it's dead
3. If I just try to turn oven on, nothing happens with the keypad as I get the error that I need a service call
4. AFTER I hit (cancel/cancel/start) and fumble around....and then get OUT of that mode, my oven seems to work just fine


I'm thinking there is a 'main' control board inside this (the one referenced above) and there might be another control board for the actual control pad....

Wondering if anyone knows enough about this to push me in one direction or another. Frankly, I think I'm going to go ahead and just order a control board and start from there.

Appreciate any thoughts. (yes, I know to unplug unit prior to opening) This is within my ability to do.
 
   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question #2  
When our (6yr old~?) dishwasher broke down, the repair part, labor and service charge was half the price of a new one and it would take about a week to get the part. A new dishwasher could be installed the next morning. We opted for the new dishwasher.
 
   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question #3  
You may have already tried this but if not disconnect power from the unit - flip the circuit breaker. Leave it without power for perhaps fifteen minutes to be sure capacitors bleed down. Reapply power and see if there's a change. That fixed my convection microwave.
 
   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Yeah, done the breaker thing.

another thing this thing (infrequently) does is....

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP

4 minutes of silence then

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP


4 minutes of silence then

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP


Usually, I have to kill the power to terminate that.

Interestingly it usually happend AFTER being used (Stovetop I think) Wife usually puts her hot skillets ALL OVER the stove top. I've tried to show her.... KEEP IT ON THE CIRCLE for the burner.... she of course, pays no attention.

It has never gone into this beep mode with me (who keeps his skillets appropriately centered)

However, that is until today. I had put it into test mode (cancel/cancel/Start) tried without luck to navigate that (the #3 on the keypad was dead, much like the oven light switch is dead)

Suddenly, an hour later.... stove/oven have NOT been used....

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP

4 minutes...

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP

So I'm a bit confused as the pattern seems a bit different. None the less... I've ordered the main control board and when I dig in there, I'll see what I can see on everything else.

(just better NOT be a stupid loose wire hanging off somewhere!! That is usually my luck after I buy the part!!!)
 
   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question #5  
Yeah, done the breaker thing.

another thing this thing (infrequently) does is....

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP

4 minutes of silence then

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP


4 minutes of silence then

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP


Usually, I have to kill the power to terminate that.

Interestingly it usually happend AFTER being used (Stovetop I think) Wife usually puts her hot skillets ALL OVER the stove top. I've tried to show her.... KEEP IT ON THE CIRCLE for the burner.... she of course, pays no attention.

It has never gone into this beep mode with me (who keeps his skillets appropriately centered)

However, that is until today. I had put it into test mode (cancel/cancel/Start) tried without luck to navigate that (the #3 on the keypad was dead, much like the oven light switch is dead)

Suddenly, an hour later.... stove/oven have NOT been used....

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP

4 minutes...

BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP

So I'm a bit confused as the pattern seems a bit different. None the less... I've ordered the main control board and when I dig in there, I'll see what I can see on everything else.

(just better NOT be a stupid loose wire hanging off somewhere!! That is usually my luck after I buy the part!!!)

I guess it is no longer under warranty, right?

I hate to say it, but have you pulled it apart to look for the loose / badly crimped wire? I would start there. If you don't have them already, I would get the wiring schematic/service manual for your stove, if you plan to keep it.

It sounds to me as if the cable to the keypad, or the keypad are likely candidates for the cause as F20-E0 seems to map to a keyboard issue, or, possibly a bad control board, but I would start at the keypad.

First off, the same company owns Amana, Kitchenaid, Whirlpool, Maytag, and Jenn-air, and also makes many of the Kenmore stoves, so if the stove is an induction stove, chances are pretty good that the controllers are similar or identical.
This site gives the possibles for a Whirlpool;
This covers the F20-E0 error on a Maytag;

This has a service manual, but I can't tell if it covers yours.

I think that the advice to unplug and replug the membrane key panel cable is a good one. This site says you can power the stove up without the panel attached, but I don't think that is going to help you;

I am a big fan of De-Oxit for cleaning electronics contacts.

Good luck!

All the best,

Peter
 
Last edited:
   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question #6  
It's Amana btw and ours just took a crap (microwave) so my wife ordered a new one. It's 15 years old so not unexpected.
 
   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question #7  
@5030 thanks for catching the typo. It has been corrected.
 
   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question #8  
I knew what you meant, no big deal. Seems today, every brand is made by the same company, just with different name tags.
 
   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I'm still waiting for the part to come in. Seems it's backordered.

Anyone know when the boat leaves china??

:cautious:
 
   / Kitchenaid Range (part replacement) Question #10  
When my wife buys a new appliance from the store she always buys from, she always gets the extended warranty and in home service contract and so far, other than the failed microwave after 15 years, she has never paid for a service call or replacement parts. Costs a couple bucks extra but worth every penny. No, we never buy any appliance from a box store either.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2015 Ford Transit 350HD Cargo Van (A44571)
2015 Ford Transit...
2011 Chrysler 200 Convertible Coupe (A42744)
2011 Chrysler 200...
2015 WESTERN STAR 4900 (A45046)
2015 WESTERN STAR...
2015 Ford F-550 XL Super Duty (A44501)
2015 Ford F-550 XL...
2004 Caterpillar 345B Hydraulic Excavator (A42742)
2004 Caterpillar...
2012 Jaguar XJ Sedan (A42744)
2012 Jaguar XJ...
 
Top