Kioti Safe Angle of Operation

[jebb]

I have a Kioti DK35 and am interested in knowing what is the recommended safe angle of operation. Does anyone know?

Thanks

 

[jeffva]

I'll tell you I've really pushed this when putting in fence posts. Normally when there is an angle at all, I start going perpendicular to the slope, but of course there are times when you can't. I know in general your brain thinks you are at a steeper angle than you really are... and this is a good thing. It seems to be true'er on the bigger tractors.

I will say that I've never flipped one, so do be careful... and yes I'm knocking on my head right now!

 

[Highbeam]

Ooo-ooo- the safest angle is flat and level. I couldn't help it.

I've popped up a tire into the air a few times on my CK and let me be the first to say that it isn't the angle of operation as much as the little rock or stump or branch that your uphill tire bumps into and gives a "shove" to your tractor towards rolling over.

I've done some pretty aggressive ditching with a box blade and put the machine almost on its side.

In a purely agricultural setting working a huge rockfree field with an implement at a set speed for hours on end, a level gauge might be fun to watch.

 

[JerryG]

All wheeled tractors like ours are required by SASE to not fall over at 20*. But, their 20* isn't our 20*. They test them on a tilt table. I have never had a tractor on anything that smooth. If you are on a twenty degree slope and hit a rock, a hole or anything that increases the angle, you are going over. Most will agree that 15* is a pretty safe compromise angle to work on. That doesn't mean that the tractor won't tip over, it just means that a given reasonably safe operator (slow speed, equipment low, etc) and by looking over the area reasonably well for obstructions an operator will be safe most of the time. I know pretty wishy, washy. You won't get anything any closer either from a manufacture because of all the variables.

 

[IslandTractor]

I find it real hard to concentrate on driving when the angle meter goes much over 12-13 degrees. As Highbeam points out, the real issue is not the average slope but the unanticipated hole on the low side or bump on the high side that will temporarily increase the angle.

 

[ERE]

I have a fair amout of mowing I have to do at 13-15 degrees but when the tilt meter is over there I move pretty slowly so a bump doesn't have a lot of energy trying to turn me over. After 15, I mow up and down, usually mowing both backwards and forwards because I don't have a level enough space to turn around at the bottom of my pasture. I have mowed at 20 degrees, but I move at a dead slow crawl and kept the FEL bucket skimming the ground. I also mentally rehearse my "what if" plan: i.e. "if you go over, grab the wheel with both hands, and keep your knees and feet toward the center." Not something I recommend and not something I do except in one small place where I haven't figgured any other way to get it done.

 

[IslandTractor]

I also mentally rehearse my "what if" plan:

I found myself today traversing a short area that read about 18degrees and as I "rehearsed my plan" I realized that if the tractor tipped it was going to impale me on a few stumps I had dug up. We don't talk about it much but now that virtually all tractors are equipped with ROPS and seatbelts (yes I wear mine, always), the major risk is tipping over on to an object that will impale you. Charming thought. I suppose the best way to handle it is to have a hand on the seatbelt buckle but that is a distraction and would be a risky response. I'll just avoid that area in the future.

 

[caver]

Thread regurgitation

I wonder about front to back slope. I backed my 1914TLB up a 20-30 slope last weekend. Felt like it was 45 to my brain. I had found a spot on a little hill that would be perfect to buld an outhouse. I'll probably have to go back and dig it out some more before I drop an old 55 gallon drum in the hole.

Brad

 

[cgraham]

There is more to side hill stability than angle. I have found that my TLB becomes unstable on very slight slopes if the footing is slippery, wet, or loose, as in dry silt or sand.

The problem is greatly increased when a backhoe is mounted, because its weight is not over the center of gravity. Its weight can cause the rear wheels to slide downhill towards other hazards. At the same time, the front wheels loose traction because of the shift of weight to the rear.

I have industrial tires: maybe not as good as Ags for such situations.

If you have a backhoe on a small TLB, be VERY conservative. Stay safe!

Charlie