Kioti CK20 HST treadle pedal issue need help

[brkdrvr]

Hello, I have searched around and apparently a few owners have an issue similar to mine where the HST treadle pedal becomes balky and/or sticky. The solution seems to be a combination of one or more issues including the pedals shaft binding up in the bushing from dirt, rust/corrosion, the damper spring assembly weakening or failing and or some sort of hydraulic valving failure issue issue. My pedal was sticking in both forwards and reverse and realy seem to be a corrosion/dirt issue so I seen several hours and removed the deck over the pedal and all of the control group pieces and cleaning and lubing them, after about an hour of alternately spraying the pivot point/bushing area with PB Blaster and brake cleaner while working the pivot I greatly improved the action of the pedal. Non of the other pieces seemed to be binding although the demper assembly provided resistance in both directions like a shock absorber and the damper cylinder assembly was like an enclosed coil over shock assembly providing sprung return to the center spring action with additional dampening action. My question to anyone who has experienced they issues is how much return force should the damper cylinder assembly provide? (mine seems pretty stiff you can extend or compress it by hand but not easily) also can the dampener assembly be cleaned or serviced? it does seem to have screws on top and side of cylinder housing (like oil fill and overflow?) Cant find a schematic of this assembly. How freely should the treadle pedal pivot from forward to reverse when the tractor is running (w clutch depressed) or not running and should there really be any difference? I can now drive the tractor and heal toe from forwards to reverse much more easily and kind of feel when the pedal is in center/neutral but the pedal still does not return to neutral the way it did when it worked properly. Prior to cleaning and lubing the pedal took some force to depress in either direction and stayed now indefinitely until you forceably returned it, now the pedal doe not stay fully down and being to slowly return to the neutral/center position. I am trying to determine if I need more work in freeing the treadle shaft/bushing up ( I saw a mention of a revised bushing kit involving splitting the case to install) or the replacement/serviceing of the damper cylinder assembly ( it's very expensive to replace 350.00 - $450.00). The tractor transmission seem to run fine otherwise in both high and low range. Any constructive assistance/input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike

 

[brkdrvr]

Just spoke to Bob at Michigan Iron and Equipment and he says it sounds like my dampner and damper spring assembly are sound like their ok and that it is likely that the brake cleaner and PB Blaster are not providing enough lubrication to the shaft where it passes through the casing. It sounds like I need to work it with WD40 for up to a few hours to lubricate it. The action and travel of the pedal seems much better that it was before I disassembled and cleaned everything and broke the pedal shaft loose with alternating drenching of PB Blaster and brake cleaner while working it. So I'm hopeful that the additional working with the lubricant in WD40 will do the trick. I will post the results later this afternoon. (have to go buy WD40 I'm out).

 

[brkdrvr]

Ok,
Once again Bob at Michigan Iron proves correct. The spindle was freed up to the point of proper function after an additional hour of working the pedal from stop to stop and spraying WD40 at the point where the pedal shaft enters the transmission case. The tractor now drives and reverses with the treadle pedal returning to the neutral point when your foot is lifted. This was actually not my doing as I paid my youngest daughter (15) to do the last bit of work for me. I know feel comfortable letting my wife and daughters drive the tractor again now that the HST is working properly, it was easy to panic in a pinch if the tractor did not properly stop in close quarters. Thanks again to Michigan Iron for saving me from spending $400.00 for a new dampener assembly that I didn't need. I buy all my Kioti parts & supplies from 1/2 way across the country because they are so much more helpful than the useless dealer I purchased the tractor from new nearby. If I could travel back in time I would have driven 11 hours from DE to MI instead of buying 16 miles away from an a-hole who thinks he's a yacht dealer ( if you have to ask how much it costs you probably can't afford it, I bought CK20HST w/ FEL and back hoe plus a Befco finishing deck, new in cash) and a parts and maintenance department that they are NASA engineers and NASCAR pro mechanics while owners are thumbless simian cretins incapable of changing oil, I let them do one repair @ 200+ hrs under warranty which they totally FUBARed and have done all repairs and maintenance since 700+hrs and ten years later.

I must reiterate the advice often posted that the dealer you buy a tractor from can be as important (on even more so) than the brand. If you are not very mechanical and have a fair understanding of diesel mechanics & hydraulics with a pretty extensive collection of mechanics tools you are going to be very beholden to the dealer or person who takes care of your tractor, which may result in an extremely expensive and unpleasant experience. I truly feel for the people who purchased from my dealer particularly since they have been around for a long time, especially for those who don't have the tools/equipment or know how to keep from being preyed on by the devious or even know how they are being screwed.