King Kutter Top Link

[westbrooklawn]

I purchased a used king kutter rotary cutter. I don't know much about rotary cutters, but apparently the top link needs to have some flex in it so that the cutter will travel over bumps, etc.?

I am missing the piece that I believe provides this flex... it is part number 16 in the attached diagram, but $38 seems too high for something I can fabricate. If anyone has this 5' king kutter, could you measure the exact dimensions of the part, and provide it so that I can fabricate one? Thanks in advance for any help

 

[RalphVa]

Many of us use chains. They provide a lot more flex than any flexible top link. Just adjust the chain length to keep the cutter from dropping off the edge of a cliff or creek bank.

Attached is a picture of mine.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

You can buy that figure 8 type clip at the ends of the chain at TSC. My top link fits beside this figure 8 clip on the cutter top link end. If I want to transport the cutter, I can just swing the top link over and connect it to the tractor. Then the trail wheel will lift.

Ralph

 

[BamaRob]

I have a 5' KK and it looks just like the drawing you posted. I don't think having the exact measurements would make much difference. If you bend a piece that fits in there and put the holes so they line up, I wouldn't think it'd matter much (if any).
As Ralph said, many people replace the entire toplink with a chain to get more flexibility with the kutter.

If I remember, I'll measure the part for you this evening.

Later,

BR

 

[RobJ]

Check out these links....I've been talking about the same thing..

Link 1

Link 2

Hopefully I got the links right.

Rob

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I am missing the piece that I believe provides this flex... it is part number 16 in the attached diagram, but $38 seems too high for something I can fabricate. )</font>
That's comparatively inexpensive. LandPride wants over $50 for the same thing.

But it doesn't need to be that U-shape. Two pieces of flatstock and a bushing/spacer is perfectly adequate. Cut a pair of 8"x2.25" pieces of 1/4" flat stock and drill a 3/4" hole about 3/4" from each end. Round the corners with a grinder. Cut down a pair of 3/4" (ID) bushings to provide inside spacing.

I assume you DID get the lower bolt and spacer bushing? That's necessary to promote rigidity - or - you can use those two holes if you've got a "short" tractor.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Many of us use chains. )</font>

I know you won't want to hear this Ralph, but that looks like an accident just waiting to happen. I had a sinkhole open up under my rear tires once, and entire tractor/rotary cutter folded itself into a huge V at the lower lift arms. Toplink pretzled, but at the same time stopped 600 pounds of rotary cutter from flipping up backwards into the tractor seat AND saved the PTO shaft . If I had been using a chain - instead of a proper toplink - I figure at best the PTO shaft would have taken on the appearance of a recurve bow. At worst, the RC transmission could have hit me somewhere between the shoulder blades and the back of my head.

Assuming one would survive such a hit, one would then be facing a significant repair bill when he got out of the hospital; rear fenders, operator seat, PTO shaft, toplink.

Your chain "solution" will flex to a bottom stop point just fine. Unfortutately there IS no stop point at the top - except for you and the tractor.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

I'd have to agree with Greg. I'm NOT a fan of chain toplinks, due to the safety factor involved.

Soundguy

 

[djradz]

A trailer type implement seems just as susceptible to "flipping up" as it too has no top link. I just don't see this ever happening in either case.

 

[Soundguy]

Sure a trailing mower can flip up.. and a 3pt has a small bit of protection against that in the way of a toplink. No need to disable your protective devices.. however minimally effective they are.. right?

With that logic.. we might as well remove all belt and pto shields.. get rid of seat belts and rops/fops, and stop using flame retardent materials, and go back to gas cap designs that can expell fuel under force.. remove warning lables telling people not to open hot radiators, and warning around fan shrouds.. etc.. right? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Soundguy