My tractor is a little over 2 years old so is off warranty now. Kept blowing the 7.5 amp fuse on the pto and my dealer finally figured it was the pto relay. Then I started blowing the 10 amp fuse on the wiring harness. My dealer has changed the fuel solenoid twice now. The last time he changed it my tractor worked about 6 hours before the fuse failed again. They said they checked the wiring harness for shorts and found none. They have no idea what's causing this. This coming week will be the eighth week I haven't had use of the tractor this summer. Has anyone here had a similiar problem? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Keep blowing 10 amp fuse on my Emax22
- Thread starter Butch51
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RNeumann
Elite Member
A lot of Mahindra tractors have had a lot of battery cable issues. Cable that "look fine" are often not in great shape.
If the two items are in fact related, a bad ground is high on the likelihood list. With a bad ground, about anything can turn into the ground path and or be back fed causing failure. That's where I'd start.
Beyond that, I am firm believer in roughly manipulating wiring and connections with the machine running. This was our preferred diagnosis method with "mystery" electrical issues.
If the two items are in fact related, a bad ground is high on the likelihood list. With a bad ground, about anything can turn into the ground path and or be back fed causing failure. That's where I'd start.
Beyond that, I am firm believer in roughly manipulating wiring and connections with the machine running. This was our preferred diagnosis method with "mystery" electrical issues.
Spanner
Veteran Member
Sounds like you have an intermittent short-circuit in your harness. Probably a bared wire rubbing due to vibration. You will only have a chance of finding it when it displays the symptom and is actually shorting.
"beenthere" I think has a great tip for using a light bulb to find when the circuit is shorting. Moving the harness around until the bulb lights-up narrows the location of the S/c.
Search the forum for his tip.
"beenthere" I think has a great tip for using a light bulb to find when the circuit is shorting. Moving the harness around until the bulb lights-up narrows the location of the S/c.
Search the forum for his tip.
Just put a new ground able on. Now it's blowing the 10 amp fuse when I turn the key left for the glo plug. Before it would blow when I turned the engine over. Will play with the harness next. I really appreciate the feedback from you and Spanner.
Spanner
Veteran Member
The tip from 'beenthere' is in Post #2 of this thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/43939-30-amp-fuse-keeps-blowing.html
and the full 5 pages would be good reading for you.
Look at the bottom of this page below the "Quick Reply" box and find a list of "Similar Threads" which you should read also.
The "Search" function (Top Right) is very useful as well.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/43939-30-amp-fuse-keeps-blowing.html
and the full 5 pages would be good reading for you.
Look at the bottom of this page below the "Quick Reply" box and find a list of "Similar Threads" which you should read also.
The "Search" function (Top Right) is very useful as well.
Check you headlight wires were they run down the hood... I had one that was loose and got pinched by the hood closing and would short the tractor out and blow that exact fuse... Id bet 95% you got a cut wire touching metal somewere. If its not in that spot check were the wires go behind the ECU they make a bend and can rub against brackets for the ecu
SedonaDave
Bronze Member
A fuse will only do 2 things......Cut out on a short, or over current protection.....Who in the world would think any relay could blow a 10 amp fuse?
Pull that fuse, look at wiring diagram....Check those wires to ground with continuity, tractor running and off.....Sound just like a shorted or pinched wire......Eventually it will totally fail!
Pull that fuse, look at wiring diagram....Check those wires to ground with continuity, tractor running and off.....Sound just like a shorted or pinched wire......Eventually it will totally fail!
tjkubota93
Veteran Member
That light bulb in place of a fuse is a technique taught by ford technical training to dealer techs. It works well. I have used it as a tech and a field service engineer.
agd5f
New member
Make sure the fuse clamp (what the fuse fits into) is tight. They don't always make good contact with the fuse which can cause problems.
Jabonee
Platinum Member
There has been a few issues with the EMAX wiring harnesses. Splices are crimped not soldered. I've repaired and replaced a few with your issue. One of the main issues on early EMAXs was the harness at the ECU. The harness makes a sharp bend where it exits the ECU and is routed behind it. Early units were rubbing the air filter bracket causing fuses to fail. Mahindra added a piece of trim on the bracket to protect the harness. You may want to check if the trim is there. If it is not check the harness there.:thumbsup:
SedonaDave
Bronze Member
And saves fuses!!!! LOL......First did it with light bulbs in old fuse pannels looking for shorts.....Same thing!
tjkubota93
Veteran Member
Oh, those were before my time but it makes perfect sense. When I was small I was at my grandad's house. A fuse blew and my dad was kinda piturbed because grandad wanted to put a penny in there (not having a fuse)
dickfoster
Elite Member
I'd place my bet on a frayed wire somewhere that it shorting to the frame. This is by far the reason most fuses blow in mobile equipment like cars, planes, tractors etc. BTW that is why fuses are there in the first place, to prevent the equipment from catching fire and burning due to shorted wiring.
RNeumann
Elite Member
You and I are thinking the same thing. Manually moving/manipulating the wires will typically reveal the short fairly quickly.
Light bulbs, "testers" and the like are way down the diagnostic tree in my world.
Spanner
Veteran Member
Au contraire. The light-bulb idea is a good way of finding the short-circuit (We all agree there's an SC) when he 'manipulates' the harness.
Otherwise he'll just blow lots of fuses narrowing down the location of his problem.
Diagnostic 'tools' are a long way up the diagnostic tree in my world.
SedonaDave
Bronze Member
I totally and completely agree....Unless you can by fuses by the gross!
RNeumann
Elite Member
Coffee is on. Come on down to the shop. I've got a fleet of fire engines, staff vehicles and other support vehicles. Take your pick. Probably have over 1000 circuits to choose from- just a staff SUV must have over 100 with light bars, radios, MDCs etc.
Your first post in this thread (maybe about post 3) is partially accurate. But waiting for it to short again doesn't cut it in my world. A fuse gets replaced once but if it blows again the issue should be found.
One must "create" the intermittent circumstances to find the issue. Seems over 90% of the time (as Dick stated), in a vehicle, motion/movement is what's causing an intermittent problem.
So, hypothetically speaking, if someone brought me a vehicle with an intermittent radio or a radio that was blowing fuses, the first thing I'd do is smack the side of the radio to see if something inside the radio was creating the problem. (One second) Then I'd grab the wires/wire harness leaving the radio and yank it around (10 seconds) then it's time to move beyond the cab and deeper in the harness- again moving the wires/harness as I went (maybe a minute or two). In this example I'd spend more time pulling up wiring schematics and hooking up the Fluke meter than I would actually diagnosing the issue!
Maybe I'm missing what the OP is asking but it seems a lot of theory about diagnosing has occurred with little offered about how to isolate and fix the issue. A tractor isn't that complex- it's only got about 20' of main harness-if that. This shouldn't be that tough to find.
Your first post in this thread (maybe about post 3) is partially accurate. But waiting for it to short again doesn't cut it in my world. A fuse gets replaced once but if it blows again the issue should be found.
One must "create" the intermittent circumstances to find the issue. Seems over 90% of the time (as Dick stated), in a vehicle, motion/movement is what's causing an intermittent problem.
So, hypothetically speaking, if someone brought me a vehicle with an intermittent radio or a radio that was blowing fuses, the first thing I'd do is smack the side of the radio to see if something inside the radio was creating the problem. (One second) Then I'd grab the wires/wire harness leaving the radio and yank it around (10 seconds) then it's time to move beyond the cab and deeper in the harness- again moving the wires/harness as I went (maybe a minute or two). In this example I'd spend more time pulling up wiring schematics and hooking up the Fluke meter than I would actually diagnosing the issue!
Maybe I'm missing what the OP is asking but it seems a lot of theory about diagnosing has occurred with little offered about how to isolate and fix the issue. A tractor isn't that complex- it's only got about 20' of main harness-if that. This shouldn't be that tough to find.
SedonaDave
Bronze Member
This is what I offered, and do agree that the harness cant be 20' away from spine.....But completly disagree with a intermintet electrical possable short!..You do know if you use a lamp, you can see the light! Then you know your close.....You need to keep going back to fuse box and see if it tripped.....To each his own.....But ive seen things you could never imagine happen just from back feeds.
tjkubota93
Veteran Member
If you replace the fuse in the suspect circuit with a light bulb (can even wire in parallel with a buzzer) when you yank the harness in such a fashion to reproduce the short to ground the light bulb and/or buzzer goes off. And your right, it takes 30 seconds.
