Rotary Cutter Keep bending tailwheel assembly

[roger gaither]

I have owned a Land Pride RCR1860 rotary cutter for approx. five years and have bent the tailwheel assembly three times while backing into brush. The yoke bends to the left or right and has to be replaced. I have bent the yoke again and want to replace it with a heavy duty one. I have found a heavy duty one listed by High Grade Manufacturing out of Iowa. I would like to hear from others that have had this problem and how they corrected it and/or from anyone that has had any dealings with products from this Iowa company.

 

[BlacknTan]

I've had nothing but good luck with Land Pride products, and like them alot. That said, I've got a Woods Rotary Cutter and the design for the tail wheel is much stronger, but I still like the RCF series of LP Rotaries.

I don't know where your bending is ocurring, the forks for the tailwheel itself?, but I'd box the triangular area near the tailwheel by welding steel plates top and bottom. The adjustment method is still a bit flimsy, but if that's not where your issue lies, it's all good.

Sometimes I don't believe the things my Woods mower gets backed into, but the deck of the BBC-60 is thinner than the LP, and more prone to damage. I think the sideskirts of the LP are thicker also ..

I've wanted an LP RCF-2060 since they came out ... One of these days.

 

[boggen]

RCR18 Series Rotary Cutters | Land Pride

the overall how the A frame that leads out to the tail wheel looks flimsy to me. along with the "adjusting bar" to adjust wheel up and down. just looks flimzy there is no real "side to side" bracing built into that frame work. to keep the wheel from twisting along with the A frame from twisting.

google ""3pt rotary cutter"" without quotes
then click up on images. lots of pictures and design styles for the tail wheels.

compared to other pictures of rotatry cutters, the A frame going to tail wheel is "rather long" allowing addition flexing and more likely higher chance of bending/twisting the A frame.

am kinda wondering if you have the "top link" on the 3pt hitch extend to long. and allowing the tail wheel to drag and get hung up on more stuff.

along with taking corners, and letting the tail wheel take a good amount of abuse.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Get a different cutter. some are just not built heavy enough. 2" flat bar stock is not big enough for abuse. I think tube tube type tailwheels are stronger.

 

[roger gaither]

The yolk itself bends where it curves down to where the wheel mounts. I think the wheel gets in a bind when I back into something and warps the yolk.

 

[BlacknTan]

I'd replace with the one you referenced from High Grade ... and back up a little more carefully! LOL

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Get a different cutter. . . .

or stop backing into brush.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I bent the forks to the side on mine when mowing on uneven ground with the top chain too tight. As the tractor went over a rise, the chain would tighten and the rear wheel would come off the ground and swivel around...then slam down again facing backwards. I now make sure that I keep the chain really loose so the wheel stays on the ground most of the time and slow way down when I go through a dip sharp enough to lift the wheel off the ground. I haven't damaged my mower by backing into brush, but I also don't do it often. My mower seems to ride up on the small trees and brush, just lifting the whole PTH assembly, if I try to back into them.