Just pickef rd up a JD 1209 Mo/Co...Have a few questions

LondonDave · Aug 19, 2015

Just picked up a JD 1209 Mo/Co...Have a few questions

I went and looked and bought a JD 1209 Mo/Co today. This is my first "mower/conditioner". I'm upgrading from a New Idea 251 sickle mower. I paid $600 Canadian (approx $450 US) for it so I don't expect it to be mint but it's in pretty good shape. From the advice here I gave the wobble box a good looking over. Not signs of repair to the mount, everything is good and tight. Blade are mint and bar runs straight. Something that I did notice that I found a little odd is the rock guards. They aren't the typical ones that come up over the blade. They are just stubby little things that run under the blade (see pic below). The end guards are the "normal" type but all the rest are these stubby little things. Is that normal for this mo/co or has someone put the wrong guards on it at some point in it's life?

The rollers are in overall pretty good condition. A few chunks missing out of the low spots here and there. Has anyone used any sort of rubberized material to patch the spots where chunks are missing? Something like the black rock guard stuff for trucks or bed liner stuff? Or does it matter if there is a few chunks missing?

The biggest issue with it, which I didn't notice until I got it home, is the all of the bearings except 1 are out of the rake. One of them the bolt looks like it can be removed without too much trouble but a couple of them are pretty trashed. I'm guessing it's going to be best to try and cut them out and put in all new? Are the bearing something fairly standard?

I'm going to pick up a manual. Can anyone recommend the best place to get one?

I've attached a few pics below.

Thanks

Dave

Tx Jim · Aug 20, 2015

You can probably get brgs at a good brg supply place but here's the JD part number. You should be able to loosen bolt & replace brg through hole in the cam. Everything I read about the stub guards is they cut better than conventional guards.

AE74534 Ball Bearing - BALL BEARING (REEL CAM FOLLOWER) ADD 26.16 USD

LondonDave · Aug 20, 2015

Thanks Jim. A few of the bolt heads are pretty mashed up so I'm not sure if a socket will go over them. For $26 a piece I think I'll look for aftermarket!

dieselknudt · Aug 20, 2015

A 1209 was my first mower conditioner as well!
I was not fortunate enough to get one with the no clog guards, you will like that feature!
If there is jagged edges where you are missing rubber it could catch the hay and want to wrap up on the roller. You may want to smooth the edges as much as possible to avoid that.
Also be sure to keep an eye on the oil levels in the gear boxes as they can expensive to fix (scientifically tested and proven)
Check ebay or your local JD dealer for a manual.

pmsmechanic · Aug 20, 2015

I didn't look for your manual but John Deere has a lot of their manuals online. They are a free download.

LondonDave · Aug 20, 2015

dieselknudt said:
A 1209 was my first mower conditioner as well!
I was not fortunate enough to get one with the no clog guards, you will like that feature!
If there is jagged edges where you are missing rubber it could catch the hay and want to wrap up on the roller. You may want to smooth the edges as much as possible to avoid that.
Also be sure to keep an eye on the oil levels in the gear boxes as they can expensive to fix (scientifically tested and proven)
Check ebay or your local JD dealer for a manual.

Here I thought there was something wrong with the guards because they are different than what I'm used to seeing. Turns out it's a good thing...I like that!:thumbsup:

I'll check the edges of the rollers. Has anyone tried patching the missing spots with any sort of epoxy type product?

I'll definitely check all of the oil levels.

Thanks

Dave

MMagis · Aug 21, 2015

I've considered patching rollers with high strength construction adhesive, but I never have actually tried it yet. The main objective just being to stop the holes from getting bigger. I've heard of people using sheet metal screws with a washer, but I never really liked that idea.
I'd say you did real good at that price, even with the reel bearings out. I think you'd find that you can use it without those bearings if you really needed to, and it looks like it's been run that way for a while.

LondonDave · Aug 21, 2015

MMagis said:
I've considered patching rollers with high strength construction adhesive, but I never have actually tried it yet. The main objective just being to stop the holes from getting bigger. I've heard of people using sheet metal screws with a washer, but I never really liked that idea.
I'd say you did real good at that price, even with the reel bearings out. I think you'd find that you can use it without those bearings if you really needed to, and it looks like it's been run that way for a while.

Thanks. I went to my local Case IH dealer and they found me the bearing for $47 each!!! No thanks. I found an aftermarket part number and got them for $3.75 each. I think you're right. It would run and has run without them but I figured best to replace them. The bolts weren't buggered like I thought so they came off no problem. Just need to wait for the new bearings to come in the mail and I'll be all set. I'm going to see what I can figure out with the rollers to try and patch them up or at least keep them from getting any worse.

rankrank1 · Aug 22, 2015

While I am not a huge fan of the early line of JD sickle based moco's, I feel you found quite the bargain relative to the price you paid and its condition in the photos appears very good.

Sickle based moco or haybine type cutters no longer get the respect they deserve with the advent of disc mowers, disc mocos, and even drum mowers. That said It will be quite the upgrade to the New Idea 251 cutter you had been using.

I have cut in the rain with my Hesston 9' sickle based cutter but no way could I do that with a plain sickle cutter. Best of all, I like that you do not need mega tractor horsepower or a cab (or at least an operator protective shield at minimum) like you do with disc and drum type mowers which will eventually fling a rock at the operators head. Look at the number of broken cab glasses that happen due to disc mowers - would you want that to be your head.

Your 3930 is gonna handle your new mower quite well. Heck I run mine with an old antiquated bone stock Farmall m (maybe 36 hp) or a bone stock Farmall h (maybe 27 hp). Of course I prefer the m on it, but it is a project tractor so the h often sees dutysimply because it is more dependable presently. Your 3930 is gonna be a dream running that thing, but do be careful on hills if you have any as there is more weight and side draft present than appears at first glance...