Just bought my first tractor!

[drvcycle]

I just purchased my first tractor this weekend! It is a Farm Pro 2425 with front loader and backhoe. I also got a box scraper, back blade and disc harrow thrown in. It may be a little weird but I'm really excited by this purchase! I've been looking at tractors over the past several weeks and for some reason I've been drawn to the Chinese tractors. I suppose it is partially by the relative simplicity of these machines and partly because I didn't want to spend much money on a tractor. I bought 10 acres of land last year and have been working on getting it set up to move out there eventually. I have a long list of things I want this tractor to help me with; I sure hope it is up to the task!

I think the only problem with the tractor is the front loader control valve leaks. I assume it is just an O-rings on the spool valves that need to be replaced. I'll try removing the spool valves in the next few days to see what they look like.

This is my first tractor, first diesel engine, and first experience with hydraulics. I guess I have a lot to learn!

I'm not sure what year the tractor is, but I assume it is a 2005 since the engine plate says it was manufactured in 2005. The loader plate says 2004 and the backhoe says 2003.

 

[RonMar]

Sometimes the loader valve spool Orings just wear out. But you could also have an issue with the relief valve back in the 3PH control valve. IF it is not releiving at the correct pressure, it could be overloading the Orings in the spool valve, and the entire system back to the pump for that matter. The Orings in the loader spools are probably the weakest link, so they fail first. IF you have a quick connect fitting off of the 3PH control valve out the back, it is very easy to check the 3PH relief pressure. The 3PH relief in my Jinma 284 was set way too high when delivered...

 

[drvcycle]

Thanks, Ron. I don't think I have a quick connect out the back. It probably would be good to verify that the relief valve is set correctly otherwise it might just blow the orings in the spool valves when I replace them.

 

[RonMar]

At least the Orings are cheap Since the pressure created by the 3PH will be felt all the way back to the pump, you can also get a set of quick connections(male and female) and a high pressure "T" fitting and gauge(0-5000 PSI). You can then plug the T with gauge into the line where the quick connect fittings connect to/from the loader control valve. There sould be a screw type handle right down in front of the seat that is used to regulate the lowering speed of the 3PH. If you screw this valve all the way in, it shoud keep any fluid from reaching the 3PH cylinder. When you lift the control handle to lift the 3PH with that valve closed, the system will build full pressure and the relief in the 3PH should be active. the pressure you read on the gauge will be the pressure that the 3PH relief is relieving at...

If you put the gauge between pump and loader valve, you can also check what the relief pressure of the loader relief is set at by running one of the controls all the way to it's limit...

 

[drvcycle]

I think I'll be working on the tractor on Friday. I'll at least see about replacing the Orings, but I'll also see if I can find a pressure gauge and the appropriate fittings. So, are the quick connect fittings on the front loader a standard size? I assume I'll need a male and female ends attached to the gauge so I can fit it in line between the pump and the loader valve.

My first project for the tractor will be to make my driveway. I plan to use the box scraper to scrape up the top soil so I can move it with the loader. Then I'll put down some gravel. The county also wants me to put in a culvert, so that should be a good test of the backhoe!

Dennis

 

[stingray1]

Congrats on the tractor.

 

[drvcycle]

Replaced the Orings in the loader control valve today. It took forever to take the first valve apart, since I didn't know what I was doing. The second just took a few minutes to take apart and replace the Orings. I think the old Orings were just worn out; they looked fine except for being flat on the inside edge that was in contact with the spool thing. The leaking seems to be gone except for a minor leak from on or two of the hose connections. But at least 95% of the leaking is fixed. I'll see about fixing that later; I guess that is just some kind of compression washer or something.

I also adjusted the brakes, since the brakes where so loose that the parking brake lever would not engage. While I was poking around under the tractor, I noticed that there is a wire hanging loose. It is labeled 26. I guess I'll need to figure out where that is supposed to be connected, but its not too urgent since everything seems to be working fine (except for the fuel gauge).

I do have one other question. I think I was driving around with the differential locked. There is a lever labeled "DIE" and "EN". EN is down and DIE is up. I think this is the differential lock lever. It was down, which is the EN position. Is this this the differential lock? And is down the engaged position and DIE the dis-engaged position?

Thanks, tractors are cool!

Dennis

 

[Bob77064]

Congrats on your new tractor.

 

[erj]

Dennis,
On my Jinma 284, there are two levers that have EN and DIE. If the one that you are asking about is the one that is lower to the floorboards and toward the front, that is the 3pt. When it is pushed down to EN (engage) it is nearly horizontal to the ground. And yes - DIE is disengaged.
The other lever located higher and further to the rear is the Differential.

By the way if you ever find what wire 26 is for let me know. I have a list that I made of all the wires on my tractor, but I never could locate a 26 and have it listed as "missing number sequence".
RonJ

 

[drvcycle]

RonJ,

The lever I in question is just at the base of the seat on the right side as your sitting on the tractor. I'm fairly certain it is the diff lock. Fortunately I didn't drive it around much and only on firm dirt. I didn't hear the tire slipping when turning, but also didn't hear anything break either! So I guess I'll be OK. I'll be working on building my driveway tomorrow with the box scrapper, so I'll probably get a chance to see how the diff. lock works.

I took a picture of the loose #26 wire, but can't get the picture off of my phone; bad USB cable I guess. I'll post the picture later once I get the camera problem sorted out. It is located at the back of the engine on the left side near the bottom. Also in the same bundle is what looks like the wire to the oil pressure sending unit. I'll take my multimeter with me tomorrow and see if it has voltage on it. I think maybe it is supposed to be a ground for something.

Dennis

 

[RonMar]

Havn't looked at the levers in a while, but if I recall the difflock lever is longer and located up higher under the 3PH rais/lower lever. If I recall it pushes against a springloaded plunger, and down is engage. When it is engaged, the lever will fall freely to the engaged position. When you hold the lever up, and the load is taken off of the 3 toothed pawl in the rearend, the parts will pop apart by spring pressure and then the lever will stay up on it's own. When I use mine, I lift it up and push my leg out to the side to hold the lever up, and can usually feel the plunger pop out and smack the control lever thru my leg to tell me it is disengaged. IF the difflock were engaged, and things were working right in the rear differential, it would be very hard to turn the tractor asthe outside wheel gould not turn faster than the inside wheel. All that traction in the rear would make it just want to go in a straight line...

The PTO engagement lever is down on the side of the gearbox, engaged is also forward on that lever...

I don't recall ever finding a wire 26, and don't have it listed on the schematic I drew. Can you take a picture of it showing it's general location on the tractor? here is a link to that schematic, you might find it usefull. IF I can ID that wire 26, I will add it to the schematic.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...28-jinma-284-electrical-schematic-2005-a.html

 

[drvcycle]

Ron,

OK, I must be looking at the PTO lever. I made lots of tight turns with no trouble, so that lever must not be for the diff lock. I'll look around some more tomorrow to see if I can find the diff lock.

I'll post pictures of the #26 wire as soon as I can get a working cable for my phone. There is no obvious place that it looks like it should be connected to, which is why I think it might be a ground wire. The previous owner said he replaced the clutch and I think that is when it was disconnected and he probably couldn't remember where it belonged.

Dennis

 

[RonMar]

The difflock lever is between the 3PH raise/lower lever and PTO lever. It attaches/pivots at a point below where the 3PH control valve attaches to the right side of the tractor...