rivvgs
New member
ok for what it is worth. I have owned my 9n, or 2n, nobody has ever been able to tell me exactly how to tell the difference, for about 35 years I recently bought a 8n that I have been robbing parts off of to keep my 9n running. the way I stumbled onto this site was that I was searching for a current manufacturer of V8 conversion kits for one of these old tractors. and I saw a post by a gentleman wanting to install a 351 w into his tractor and his post was responded to with what seemed to be a purist to persuade him to stick to the oem 4 banger. he used the example of installing a 35 hp briggs on a push mower and that if you put the 351 in your tractor the power of the starter motor will break the tractor into scrap metal and your father would be ashamed of you. somewhat true but not as bad as it was made out to be.At the expense of telling my age. I can remember attempting to cut thru high grass with a new push mower that came from the western auto store with a whopping 2.5 horse briggs and straton I think that may have been my first experience with cussing too. Now my guess is that if anything, the metal on the same type mower hanging on the display rack at wal mart with a 6 hp briggs is lighter gauge than the 2.5 from 40 years ago. I have a 5 foot Bush hog that I use with my old 9n.. the 4 banger aint what she used to be and it never was anything to write home about in the power department even 20 years ago when it was fresh. today I was bush hogging a field for a widow lady across the street I had to make 2 passes in low gear, and take 1/2 width cuts.shes a huffing some serious blow by under load and it is very obvious that the tractor needs some kind of repowering. lets see, bore the 4 banger, after liners are installed grind the crank buy all new valves guides, springs have hardend seats installed in the block cam lifters more than likely all that at a cost of what??? you have a fresh 4 banger that almost has as much power as you need, still has that pain in the but front mount distributor that gets to damp to run right if a dog pees on the tire. If you run a 12 volt system, it isn't if, it is when you destroy a starter drive gear. I try to keep one, they usually break on Saturday afternoon about 5 minutes after 12 when the parts store that has one closes. you get my drift. have you ever heard the saying if you have lemons, make lemon ade? does the 351 have more than enough power to destroy the drive train?? yes it does. will it do so? if you are just trying to bush hog the full width in second gear my geuss is no. if you take it out and try to yank stumps it probably will. your clutch foot and throttle hand will break your tractor not the 351. personally my preference is a old 151 or 153 gm iron push rod inline 4 banger or a 2300 ford and if I were to get real creative I would put throttle body injection on it.would more than double your power the 151 already has all the hardware for the cheesy gas we get today and you could buy parts any day of the week at your local auto zone if you needed to. if a 351 floats your boat, put it in there. a blown Hemi would only break your tractor if you opened the throttle to the breaking point. now if you want a show piece trailer queen that you wipe fly crap off the fan blade when one lands on it?? rebuild the flat head, leave it in the building get a Kubota so you wont have to get it dirty using it for a tractor. you will get far more looks with a 351 in any condition than a oem 4 banger. now the quest for a adaptor continues. by the way you would not believe how a 83 mustang runs with a old buick wildcat engine in it. had the buick in my lemon patch, so I made lemon aide. never did break the 7.5inch 4cyl rear or axle even with slicks car ran mid twelves with a 3.08 gear. well I have rattled on enough. anyone know who makes a current adaptor for these tractors?
