John Deere Square Balers

WV John Deere · Jul 7, 2010

Here's the story.....I have 10-12 acres of square bales to make next year. I've been researching older John Deere balers the best I can. The 24T, 336 and 346 have come recommended (if found in good shape). Any tips, secrets, or things to look for on these particular models? Any things to look out for on them? Any particular known weaknesses on a certain one?

Thanks!!!

RickB · Jul 7, 2010

If you don't know balers, don't buy a used baler without taking someone who knows balers with you. It will be cheaper to learn from him than from your mistake.

AKfish · Jul 7, 2010

RickB said:
If you don't know balers, don't buy a used baler without taking someone who knows balers with you. It will be chaeper to learn from him than from your mistake.

That's very good advice..

However, there's a few things that you can "learn" by reading about and hearing of other people's experiences with different balers that will help you to narrow your focus to a few models that might work best with your particular tractor, etc.

This forum can be a great asset in that regard! :thumbsup:

One such tidbit - the newer balers (80's vintage) have utilized more gear driven parts than chains. That's an advantage as they don't wear as badly as chains (generally.. with good maintainence) and the amount of wear or slop with chains can make a baler frustratingly inconsistent and difficult to troubleshoot.

AKfish

oldnslo · Jul 7, 2010

The 24T is getting pretty old, has Deere started to make parts hard to get yet?

flusher · Jul 7, 2010

WV John Deere said:
Here's the story.....I have 10-12 acres of square bales to make next year. I've been researching older John Deere balers the best I can. The 24T, 336 and 346 have come recommended (if found in good shape). Any tips, secrets, or things to look for on these particular models? Any things to look out for on them? Any particular known weaknesses on a certain one?

Thanks!!!

Start with the pto shaft and the slip clutch--the shaft probably will be OK, but check that the U-joints show that they've been regularly lubed. The slip clutch may have to be rebuilt--no problem to replace the friction plates, it's easy.

Your best bet is to buy a baler that's been shedded--I'd avoid balers that have been stored in the field. Even better is to buy a baler that the Seller has been using. I bought my MF124 square baler the day after the Seller had used it to bale his 35 acres.

It's best to have the Seller demonstrate the baler operation by running a few bales through it for you. It that's not possible, then, with the baler pto disconnected from the tractor, turn the flywheel by hand. If the baler is won't turn, then you need to find out why before you buy it. Possible problems--lack of lubrication, bent/broken parts that are restricting motion, dry/siezed bearings, broken chains, massive mis-timing problems.

If it turns, then check the operation of the pickup, the packer and the plunger through several cycles. They should operate without a lot of drag.

WV John Deere · Jul 9, 2010

Thanks for all the input everyone.

Don't take this the wrong way but, I've been around equipment so, the common checks I'm well aware of.

I was just wanting to know if anyone knows of anything in particular to look for on those specific model balers. I've only used New Holland and Ford balers in the past. While balers accomplish the same thing, the NH and JD do have their differences.

Oh, and yes, parts are still available for the 24T.

Thanks again fellas :thumbsup:

ddivinia · Jul 10, 2010

I just made a hay baler purchase mistake, so I think I am qualified to answer this questions.

I bought a 346 twine baler off ebay.

The number one thing to check is the bale chamber. If it has an old hay bale in it - that is a bad sign. Pull that sucker out and check for holes.

The 346 is supposed to be one of the better JD balers. The 4xx are said to have a bunch of issues and the 3x7 I am told have gear box issues.

Regardless - here are a couple more things.

Open the top access panel and grab ahold of the plunger pitman arm and check to see how loose it is.

Checking the plunger bearings is somewhat tough, but you can move the plunger to the position that on the left side of the baler you can access the left side bearing for adjusting. If the nut is readily visible - you can count on the bearing being shot.

Check the hay fingers - mine the crankshaft ended up being pretty worn. New bushings helped some - but it ain't new is all I can say.

Knotters - you need a parts list. My baler had some extra parts in there (springs).

If you know how to time a baler - that would help on the inspection. Checking the bill hooks, twine disc, etc.

Are you looking at twine or wire?

Tires, wheel bearings, pickup, pucking up teeth, slip clutch, shear bolt, needles, hay resistors, etc etc.

My baler is a 1979 model. I am getting a crash course in them - it is kinda fun.

I would say run some hay thru it or get it REALLY cheap and buy a service manual.

D.

WV John Deere · Jul 10, 2010

That's some of what I'm looking for :thumbsup:

I looked at a 336 last week and the bale chamber was just about rusted out underneath. Straw still in the chamber and quite clearly not kept under roof!

Oh yeah, to answer your question, twine. No wire for me.

Thanks a lot

JasG · Jul 11, 2010

The things I look for are the common things listed but also cracks. Look at the 4 corners of the chamber from end to end both inside and out. Look at the area around the needle carriage mounts. Look at the top and bottom below the resistors. All of these areas get thin and stressed over time and seem to crack or split on older balers.

Look at the tubes on either side of the needles to see if they look like they have hit the ground. Check the axles from 1 side of the baler to the other. The none pick up side axles were known to bend and break on Deeres. The main axles I have seen several with crack on these under the middle of the baler. Look at the drawbar, these sometimes crack 1/2 way between the baler and the tractor.

If the baler has a kicker. Look whole thing over very good, wash it off if needed. Cracks on these can be on the pan, the drawbar, the pan latch area, the pivot areas where the arms mount to the frame. Look at the oil and look for metal in the bottom of the tank and in screen. Very much metal and the pump is going bad.