John Deere 4700 PTO spins but slips under load

[dkcortines]

I have a john deere 4700 power reverser trans when I got it the tractor had sat for approx 5 years after several hydraulic oil changes and screen cleaning finally got all my hydraulic to work properly. I hooked up a 5ft shredder to the back and was going to try out cutting some grass that was barely 5 inches tall and thin PTO would just slip like it had no power and tractor engine did not bog down or anything. Leads me to believe my PTO clutch is gone. During the screen cleaning while changing the hydraulic oil I noticed that there was some spiderweb looking material on it and was told this could be my PTO clutch. I plugged in a pressure gauge to my rear remotes on the back and read 2300 PSI manual calls for 2500 but I am assuming this is sufficient enough pressure to run everything. Just wanted to post on here to see if I am missing anything that I could check before I have to split the tractor and change this PTO clutch. Also if anybody has any experience with changing out the PTO clutch any insight would be greatly appreciated as well.

Thanks

 

[beenthere]

:welcome: to TBN
Best I can offer is a page out of the service tech manual.. suggest would be good manual for you to have, based on what you have said and what you expect you will do next.

Have also added the first of six pages outlining the disassembly for an idea what you may be in for... could add the other five if interested.

 

[dkcortines]

Thanks for the reply and the pages... I have ordered the technical manual I believe is the correct one for it TM1679. Sounds like I may have my work cut out for me splitting the tractor but the rebuild of the clutch itself doesn't seem to bad. Any info on parts from a third party source Vs. JD? I have done some research but can only drum up good resources for older tractors.

 

[beenthere]

Any info on parts from a third party source Vs. JD?

Doubt there would be enough demand for PTO clutch parts that would pay a third party to get very excited about providing them. But could be wrong on that.

Looks like, if all 7 disks and 8 plates are replaced that the cost will run about $400 from Deere.

 

[Tx Jim]

I think your tractor should have a pto clutch pressure test port.

 

[Zebrafive]

:welcome: to TBN
Best I can offer is a page out of the service tech manual.. suggest would be good manual for you to have, based on what you have said and what you expect you will do next.

Have also added the first of six pages outlining the disassembly for an idea what you may be in for... could add the other five if interested.

I would be interested in seeing the pages for splitting the tractor

 

[waycoolmarine]

I have split a few 4 series but hydro its pretty easy - my only words of wisdom take the loader off ,and 2 floor jacks - get some long bolts and cut the heads off for easier lining up , don't force anything it should roll back together

 

[Birdhunter1]

My dad and I have split several, it isn't the easiest job in the world but it isn't as difficult as one might think. Taking the loader off will help though we have never done one that had a loader on it.
First step is to put wedges between the front axle/axle housings and the axle support so the engine portion won't rock to one side. Start with a clean floor so floor jacks will roll, do not get in a hurry and take your time.
What we have done is to stack wood blocks and boards under the engine portion and we just leave it static, we do not roll it. The rear portion we place a floor jack under it and roll it backwards once everything is unhooked. The long bolt idea is a good one but we've never done it, I think a piece of threaded rod would work to as well as maybe just a steel rod. To be honest we've always been successful rolling it back into place.

 

[the old grind]

:welcome:

I think your tractor should have a pto clutch pressure test port.

This ^^! I can't help but wonder if a new clutch risks failure because 'one more thing' let go inside somewhere after the long 'sit' and 'recovery' steps.

Lack of hold pressure would cause slipping. If your friction plates have much lining left on them I'd think they failed as that pressure wasn't delivered, say due to an undiscovered internal leak. I'd want to be sure before I split.

What's a little plumbing to attach to a port that IMO should be there somewhere already? Not there? Could we tap into the circuit anywhere and add one?