John Deere 4310 Temperature gauge/wiring problem

ddailey · Oct 11, 2015

4310 brought new in 2005. At start-up, temp gage needle climbs steadily to full hot over 3 minute time span. Engine temperature is normal according to multi-meter temp readout & gut feeling. Needle goes to cold when sensor wire is unplugged. Needle goes full hot when sensor wire is grounded to block. Replaced sensor; no change. Tried to trace wire back to panel but wire goes into wiring harness bundle. Any suggestions?

davesl708 · Oct 11, 2015

Make a jumper wire and run from the gauge to the sensor. this will eliminate a short or confirm it as a possibility.

darrenjttu · Oct 14, 2015

Any luck? My 4300 is doing the same thing.

ddailey · Oct 14, 2015

No luck yet. Trying to trace wiring but haven't been able to pull steering wheel. Need to remove that to get at instrument cluster and wiring. Meter terminals are enclosed in instrument cluster. I have sprayed penetrating oil on steering wheel shaft for 3 days but no movement yet. I think a wheel puller would just damage the steering wheel. I am continuing with the pen oil for.

darrenjttu · Oct 18, 2015

Is it just your temp gauge? All of mine go up to max when I start up even fuel gauge.

ddailey · Oct 18, 2015

No. Just the temp gage.

ddailey · Oct 21, 2015

Update - after several days of Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster soak, I still can't pull the steering wheel. I'm using a cross bar added to a wheel puller to get enough width to get around the wheel hub and 1/4 steel plate as a yoke underneath. I know I'm not getting a straight pull but this seems like the best set-up I can do. I've tightened the pulling bolt so tight I feel like something is going to break. How hard should it be to come off?
Any thoughts or suggestions?

100 td · Oct 21, 2015

Loosen steering wheel nut and make it level with the shaft and give it a big whack with a hammer while you are pulling against the wheel, or you have your knees behind the wheel trying to get it off.
Re your gauge, I don't know this tractor but many gauges actually run on about 5 volts, (on older cars usually supplied this voltage from a regulator in the fuel gauge), this is so your gauges don't go up and down with engine revs as the voltage of you alternator increases. Of course most now have power supplies in the back of the dash etc., or in each individual gauge. If your gauge is receiving too high voltage it will read high, you can boil a pot of water and see what your old sender makes the gauge go to. Also check your fuel level and see what is in the tank and see if the gauge is reading correctly. If you have a shop manual there should be some testing info for the gauge outlined with voltage and/or resistance readings to measure.