John Deere 4100 Won't Start

[Czosek]

Hello,

My dads JD 4100 will not start. It turns over just fine with plenty of speed but it never fires. I am getting fuel up to the injector unit but I am not getting any fuel out of the any of the three injector lines. I am guessing that the electrical device on the back of the injector unit is a start fuel solenoid of some type. Is there a way to test it? There are three wires going to it, red, white and black, am I supposed to have power at one wire for start, one wire for run and a ground? Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Eugene R Czosek Jr.

 

[Dieseldeereguy]

Hi,

I'm not sure if its the same as on my 430, but there is plunger that is pulled in when the key is turned on and makes a "click", if this does not happen you wont get fuel. Mine was frozen when I got it, I turned the key on and sprayed it with wd-40 and pushed it in, turned key out and it moved it out, repeated and now it works fine. May want to give it a shot if its the same.

 

[carpetbone]

Your lucky day. its prob your thermistor. if you havent already, forget the fuel shutoff solenoid. the thermistor is behind the relay panel somewhere....ask the jd dealer where it is on your model. soldered into the line, like a transister. controls surges, etc, to the solenoid. i had to pull the whole panel off , pain in the rear, but it worked perfect. the part is only four bucks. good luck.

 

[goodgrendl]

My '04 JD 4100 ran fine but then the "click" solenoid wouldn't activate and it wouldn't start. A few more tries and it did. A couple weeks later it wouldn't start so I cleaned all of the electrical connections, fuel was fresh and topped off. Pulled and replaced the fuel filter which needed it. Air filter was good. Still wouldn't start. Let it sit overnight and got ready to take it to the mech in town. It started! Ran a bit rough and I left it at 1800 rpm and walked back to the house for a minute. Came back and it had quit. Had a mech come over and we bleed the injectors as he swore I had an air bubble. Got precious little fuel out of the injectors up near the High Pressure pump. Cinched it all up and tried to get it to kick over with ether spray. No go. Now it's at the Kibota dealership and the mech has replaced the solenoid. Won't start and he's scratching his head. He has a 4100 used for sale and is using it as a test subject and running systems. I would like to give him a hint or two. About the THERMISTOR, can it be sporadic like that or when they fail, they fail completely? Any other ideas? Thanks ahead of time
Will

1 hour later: I just got off the phone with the mech at Kibota. He got it started but had to run a jumper to ground from the fuel solenoid. He said there is a short on the negative side, that the thermistor is on the positive side and it is OK. The engine will not start without the jumper and he cannot find the short "somewhere in the wiring harness". He swapped out parts from the running test tractor he has but of course they made no difference. He said he was aware of the thermistor problem as he had replaced them before. So, I'm getting the tractor back, it will start however it has the jumper that has to stay in place. Patch job. Best we can do at this point I guess...:

 

[RitchElbe]

Contact John Deere directly. Not the dealer the actual company. Tell them you have no funds to spare. They worked with in dealing with the rear pto shaft. Ours shattered out of the blue. The $120 replacement. Actually does not work. The dealer says you have to purchase a kit to make it work that can run up to $1000. When I called John Deere directly to complain about this bad part. The expressed that many people had complained about it. In working with me on what needed to happen. I was able to find an adapter to hold the new shaft in our Mill lathe. The metal is hard. But using a 8" hand held grinder. We milled the new shaft down to meet the original shaft. Give'em a try they may help.

 

[Bucky3d]

JD 4100 Cranks but will not fire. Changed the fuel cut-off solenoid ran great, after couple months cranks no start again. Safety switches bypassed. bought a fuel relay switch but can't where it goes. Shows on wiring schematic, but not easy to locate so fare.. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Brown Dog]

Seat Switch ? Most people bypass them

 

[Bucky3d]

Bron Dog, thank you, yes I did bypass them, but in doing so, I may have not done it very good so I am going back over the 3 areas to ck.
I did fined out that the gas in the diesel substitute to drain it and fill with Diesel bleed the lines or just work my wayup draining the gas out of the system and it should start up after a few cranks.
ty you all for your support. Don't know what I would do with all your knowledge.
Bucky3d

 

[Bucky3d]

Thernmisator is not in my system per John deere. I did check high and low for it anyway.
None.

 

[Dave M7040]

Thernmisator is not in my system per John deere. I did check high and low for it anyway.
None.

I suggest you would have been better to start your own thread rather than jump into one where the last post was in 2012 by RICHELBE.

I usually start reading from the first post before making any comment to make certain I understand the issues.

For a while I was puzzled why the post #1 happened a long time ago and post #9 was today by you.

Diode block is the electronic component that needs to be carefully checked with a multi meter.

This illustration is maybe not for your tractor but will give you an idea on where to look.

This is the test procedure.

Read this description of the 4100 electrical fuel control circuit very carefully.

In the simplified wiring for the fuel control, note that it includes a control module and also a diode.

Dave M7040