John Deere 4100 sheet metal

[matoyan]

Anyone have an idea where I can get some reasonably priced used rear fenders for the 4100? The new ones are above $600 each and I can't afford it. I just recently got tractor and I'm trying to bring it back to life.

 

[matoyan]

Would anyone know what other model or make tractors are compatible to the JD 4100? Cub cadet or yanmar?

 

[beenthere]

The 4100 is all Yanmar I believe, so might look for a Yanmar tractor..

Curious, what has happened to the rear fenders ?? How about some pictures.. we like pics.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I needed plastic for a used E-Gator. Every JD dealer seems to quote the same price. EXCEPT "The Green Dealer" I don't know why that is, but that's where I bought mine.

 

[matoyan]

I traded an old Jeep for this tractor that had been sitting outside. It was at a metal scrap yard, I'm trying to bring it back to life. It runs great even though when I first got it, the 3 pt attachment wasn't working. Anyway, here are some pictures.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Sad. That's what SALT does to a machine.

But the tin isn't damaged. I have taken stuff to a body shop, but that isn't cheap either.

 

[holzboat]

All State Ag Parts has machines that they part out. It's worth a check. I've bought some used parts for my 4100 from them. The rear fenders on many 4100/4110's are rusted out, at least in the NE where we have to deal with road salt.

 

[adolphbell]

If the metal doesn’t have holes from the rust, why can it not be sand blasted and painted?

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have had a lot of stuff sandblasted. Maybe the medium was too rough, but it leaves a texture. One guy that I used for years called those big rust blisters "sheckles". Don't know why, but you don't appear to be able to hide them through sandblasting. They are there, clear as day after sandblasting and painting.

 

[matoyan]

on one fender the rust is so bad that the fender bends if you put any kind of pressure on it. The rust has made the metal really thin and pitted. I tried to take couple of bolts off and the bolts either snapped or stripped. Also some of the fender is completely missing from the rust. I can't figure out what they did to get the tractor this bad of a shape.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I think, just one word. SALT!

 

[stingray1]

I have had a lot of stuff sandblasted. Maybe the medium was too rough, but it leaves a texture. One guy that I used for years called those big rust blisters "sheckles". Don't know why, but you don't appear to be able to hide them through sandblasting. They are there, clear as day after sandblasting and painting.

After sand blasting you have use glaze and/or primer and if it's pitted very deep use a thin coat of body filler (bondo).If it's done right,you can't see it.

 

[Industrial Toys]

On a complex piece of equipment, that's a bit much work. And too much talent and probably patience required for me.

 

[super55]

Personally I would keep the panels and just go with body repair. Replacing panels can get real expensive real fast in parts and with that much corrosion it's a safe bet you'll be snapping bolts trying to get the panels off.

I would clean it up with a wire brush and then hit it with a chassis paint like POR-15. That stuff is as hard as nails and applies so thick it will fill any pitting. Then go ahead scratch it up and apply topcoat of paint. I've braced soft panels before by molding flat steel to the contour or even fiberglass matting with resin can do a good job of stiffening it up.

End result is how much $$$ you want to put in for visual appeal. Tractor parts are expensive especially when they come with a green color to them. You can get decent results without a huge influx of money.

 

[matoyan]

Personally I would keep the panels and just go with body repair. Replacing panels can get real expensive real fast in parts and with that much corrosion it's a safe bet you'll be snapping bolts trying to get the panels off.

I would clean it up with a wire brush and then hit it with a chassis paint like POR-15. That stuff is as hard as nails and applies so thick it will fill any pitting. Then go ahead scratch it up and apply topcoat of paint. I've braced soft panels before by molding flat steel to the contour or even fiberglass matting with resin can do a good job of stiffening it up.

End result is how much $$$ you want to put in for visual appeal. Tractor parts are expensive especially when they come with a green color to them. You can get decent results without a huge influx of money.

Thanks super55. I like your idea and I'd rather spend the money on buying a grapple or some other attachments.